A couple points of order:
Cast revolver boolits (actually most cast boolits) need to be sized to throat, not bore diameter. Throats need to be slightly larger than bore. If throats are too tight, the boolits hits the bore undersize and doesn’t form a gas seal. If the boolit is larger than the throat, it gets swaged down on firing, a scenario that can increase chamber pressure.
On the other hand, throats can be too big, which is not uncommon with older .45 revolvers, where throats may run up to .458 with a .451-.452 bore. The only solution I know of here is to limit loads to mild pressures. A .456 bullet crashing a .451 bore - you get the picture.
Since a revolver has multiple chambers, the throats not only need to be sized correctly, they need to be consistent.
I’ve DIYed opening chamber throats, but nowdays ship the cylinder off to DougGuy over on the cast boolits forum.
Though not undersized, all the S&W .357 throats I’ve measured were very tight. I have mine opened to .358. That minimizes or eliminates sizing of my home-cast boolits and helps ensure a good seal in the bore.
I assume your reference to a .410 expander ball for a .44 bullet is a typo, as that simply isn’t possible.
Given sufficient neck tension, a super-tight crimp usually isn’t necessary. For best accuracy, I use just enough taper crimp to allow chambering.
A slight flare bearing against the chamber wall helps align the bullet with the throat.
The exception is for rounds that that need to feed fast and 100% reliably, like competition or SD. Those get run through a Lee carbide factory crimp die.