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Thread: Any experience with CMP 'Special' grade M1s?

  1. #51
    I just ordered a Service grade… probably get it within the next month or so. Hopefully will be happy with it.

    Depending on the Service grade, I may pick up a Rack grade to do a Mini-G with… unless I find a suitable rifle for cheap. Something about a 16” .30-06 just seems cool to me.

    I saw the Specials, but I also have a Century build with like new Danish VAR barrel (got it cheap enough that if the receiver was trash, still made out ok with the barrel/parts). Sent to Shuff’s, who confirmed it is good to go and did a refinish/new wood. That’s my “Special” in my eyes… just wanted one to be “correct.”

    I think as the surplus starts drying up, you’ll see a variation of the Special… where CMP has someone do new receivers and they build it up. Just look at the Tisas partnership. Unfortunately, the Garand was the last rifle that really could be surplused… since M14s and forward are “machine guns.” Only other thing I could see… M16 and M4 uppers with CMP built lowers.

  2. #52
    It appears from the info readily available that the overall quality of M1s being returned to the CMP is on the decline, especially considering the lowering of condition of receivers used on 'Specials' particularly in reference to pitting. The rifles I featured in this thread were assembled about a decade ago, two of which date to 2014 for sure There is absolutely no pitting on the receivers. Those standards have since changed as cosmetically clean receivers are getting much harder to find.

    We'll see what the future bds for the CMP M1 program.

  3. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by Screwball View Post
    I just ordered a Service grade… probably get it within the next month or so. Hopefully will be happy with it.

    Depending on the Service grade, I may pick up a Rack grade to do a Mini-G with… unless I find a suitable rifle for cheap. Something about a 16” .30-06 just seems cool to me.

    I saw the Specials, but I also have a Century build with like new Danish VAR barrel (got it cheap enough that if the receiver was trash, still made out ok with the barrel/parts). Sent to Shuff’s, who confirmed it is good to go and did a refinish/new wood. That’s my “Special” in my eyes… just wanted one to be “correct.”

    I think as the surplus starts drying up, you’ll see a variation of the Special… where CMP has someone do new receivers and they build it up. Just look at the Tisas partnership. Unfortunately, the Garand was the last rifle that really could be surplused… since M14s and forward are “machine guns.” Only other thing I could see… M16 and M4 uppers with CMP built lowers.
    Good luck with your order! Please post pictures and your impressions when you get it.

  4. #54

    Final results:range trip and wood finish

    I was looking forward to getting some oil on the very dry stock of the new M1 Garand but wanted to take it to the range first to check the function as I had several issues with the previous .308 Special three years prior, which required removing some wood below the op rod channel. Happily this one ran 100% even when shooting the problematic cheap but available Aguila ammo which choked up the prior rifle. Time to tear it apart!

    On the two prior specials I had applied one layer of boiled linseed oil, one a day for six days after a light sanding with fine to extra fine scotchbrite pads. The first 3 layers were applied using small pieces of 4x fine scotchbrite pad using a bit of pressure, the final coats with a lint free piece of cloth, wiping off the excess after 15 minutes or so. I lightly sanded with the same very fine pad before applying the new layer. Several days later I applied Renaissance wax. The end product was a very smooth matte finish.

    A co-worker who does lots of wood working suggested I use clear Danish oil this time, which I had never used before. I had already done 2 layers of BLO at that point which soaked in immediately, so I finished the third before doing three more using the Danish oil, 2 coats being applied with the scotchbrite pad, the last with a cloth pad. Danish oil really begins to get tacky much faster than BLO! The resulting finish has a bit more sheen than I would have preferred but the wood grain really pops.

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    You can tell the difference in the finish of the new rifle vs the previous M1:

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  5. #55
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Asuncion, Paraguay
    Nice rifles!
    Even though the danish oil makes the grain in the wood pop out and looks great, for a military rifle like this I prefer the subdued matte finish of the linseed oil.

  6. #56
    I Demand Pie Lex Luthier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Northern Tier
    Here are a couple of suggestions for reducing the gloss of Danish oil finishes:

    https://www.finewoodworking.com/foru...ish-oil-finish
    "If I ever needed to hunt in a tuxedo, then this would be the rifle I'd take." - okie john

    "Not being able to govern events, I govern myself." - Michel De Montaigne

  7. #57
    Abducted by Aliens Borderland's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Camano Island WA.
    I finished a new M-1 carbine stock with tung oil. It doesn't look anything like the time worn oil soaked dark stocks you normally see on old carbines and Garand's. To get that effect I think one has to use a stain before the oil. Mine came out a lighter color, which I'm sure most of them were when issued.
    In the P-F basket of deplorables.

  8. #58
    Quote Originally Posted by TiroFijo View Post
    Nice rifles!
    Even though the danish oil makes the grain in the wood pop out and looks great, for a military rifle like this I prefer the subdued matte finish of the linseed oil.
    I do as well. Don’t think I will use danish oil again.

  9. #59
    Site Supporter Trooper224's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Wichita
    Prior to WWII, wormwood stain was used in military rifle production. This is where the reddish color comes from on old mil rifle stocks. This was eliminated during WWII wartime production. To replicate this a stain must be used. I've used a stain by Laurel Mountain Forge, sold online by Track of the Wolf. It's an alcohol based stain that will penitrate existing oils like BLO. The color is Lancaster Maple and it's a dead ringer for that old color. The stock on the '03 in my avatar recieved this treatment.

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    Last edited by Trooper224; 03-19-2024 at 02:43 PM.
    We may lose and we may win, but we will never be here again.......

  10. #60
    FYI for anyone interested, I was in the Centerville OH Cabelas earlier today. They had a bunch of Garands and 1903 Springfields that weren’t there a couple weeks ago.

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