Selecting Dot(s) for EDC *and* USPSA

[GJM]

A reciprocating slide is hard on optics, screws and mounting plates, so I am not surprised when there are problems.

[David S.]

I lost interest at the end of page 1.

Buck has an interesting personality and I at times find him to be a little bit abrasive.

Having said that, the OP was/is a toolbag.

C&H makes good products. Do they put out a lemon? Yeah, everyone does. If C&H rubs you the wrong way, go with a FCD's plate instead.

I skimmed through the whole thing. They identified several other "horror stories" and comms between the two parties seemed to go down hill a bit. That's about it. Lot's of he-said-she-said internet drama. yada yada yada.

If the product fits properly upon initial inspection, it seems you're good to go. Chances are very high that it will work well. If it doesn't, meh, spend the $5 and return it before you start grinding on it.

[BobLoblaw]

That machine work was straight up shameful. Buck should've bent over backwards to get that plate back. I was getting ready to send them my slide too..

[Quantrill]

Reading all of the plate conversation here makes me glad I got my slide milled. When you account for the extra cost of an optics ready gun vs iron sights gun, that savings can be applied to milling.

I’m stuck with a RMR footprint but that still gives me plenty of options

[RJ]

Reading all of the plate conversation here makes me glad I got my slide milled. When you account for the extra cost of an optics ready gun vs iron sights gun, that savings can be applied to milling.

I’m stuck with a RMR footprint but that still gives me plenty of options

In my case I wanted a Gen 5 Glock 34 because: reasons, so left me little choice.

Who did you use for the milling? I have a G48 non-MOS I'm happy with, but I'd have to decide whether to flip it for a G48 MOS with my next GSSF coupon ($444), or mill the one I have.

[Quantrill]

I used L&M for 2 M&P slides and I’ve been happy. He does request you send in your optic. I have changed RMR’s since milling so I don’t know if the size variations in optics is that great. My only nit pick is that Mark uses bigger screws than most and I’m not finding torx head replacement screws. I’d like to get away from hex head.

I used Battlewerks (sp) on a lone wolf Glock slide and it seems ok but it’s low round count.

The thing I’ve noticed about milling is that everyone recommends the place they used.

There are some established shops that have a long history of good work.

[David S.]

Technology is moving fairly quickly. If I had the option for MOS in my preferred gun, I’d choose it over direct mill.

That calculus might change if I was taking it to a war zone.

[medmo]

I was shooting Aimpoints for several years on Open pistols in competition before the Army began issuing optics on ARs (M16-M4). I remember when the first batch of Aimpoints showed up for my Infantry BN and I had to teach the first classes to my NCOs on what the optic was and how it was mounted, zero'd, etc. For years, we had the Aimpoints but Soldiers were not allowed to shoot them in annual qualification so as to not lose the iron sight skills. Kind of like using map and compass with GPS tech available.

One day iron sight pistols will be cool and sell at an inflated price - kind of like revolvers now.

OO-Freakin-Rah! said the Marine to the Soldier who actually capitalized Soldier. Once a Marine, always a Marine. Soldier for Life.

Sorry for the micro thread hi-jack.

As you were, carry on.

[scw2]

I also use it as a “cap” on screws and things that would vibrate loose otherwise too.

Finally getting on the optics bandwagon and saw your post about the rubber cement. I got my slide direct milled, so the tip of joining the slide to mounting plate isn't relevant, but the point about "capping" the screws is. Do you normally use this in place of loctite on the screws, or are you doing this in addition to the loctite?

[JCN]

Finally getting on the optics bandwagon and saw your post about the rubber cement. I got my slide direct milled, so the tip of joining the slide to mounting plate isn't relevant, but the point about "capping" the screws is. Do you normally use this in place of loctite on the screws, or are you doing this in addition to the loctite?

I have done it a couple different ways.
I usually use just a little bit of blue loctite on the tip of the threads, but that’s usually not enough by itself under high volume shooting. But it’s small enough that I don’t have to struggle or use heat to get it off.

In addition to the blue loctite, I will either use a small blob on a toothpick on the underside of the screw head where it sits on the optic to resist vibration. If I do that, I’ll use a sharpie and witness mark the top so I know if it’s rotating.

Otherwise I put a little blob on top of the screw if it’s recessed or a little more that hangs over.

The goal is basically to prevent free rotation of the screw if the loctite starts to give, but easy enough to rub off and remove if desired.

Some optics manufacturers recommend blue loctite mating the screw head to the optic but that usually winds up being a PITA to get off later.