A reciprocating slide is hard on optics, screws and mounting plates, so I am not surprised when there are problems.
A reciprocating slide is hard on optics, screws and mounting plates, so I am not surprised when there are problems.
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
I skimmed through the whole thing. They identified several other "horror stories" and comms between the two parties seemed to go down hill a bit. That's about it. Lot's of he-said-she-said internet drama. yada yada yada.
If the product fits properly upon initial inspection, it seems you're good to go. Chances are very high that it will work well. If it doesn't, meh, spend the $5 and return it before you start grinding on it.
David S.
That machine work was straight up shameful. Buck should've bent over backwards to get that plate back. I was getting ready to send them my slide too..
Reading all of the plate conversation here makes me glad I got my slide milled. When you account for the extra cost of an optics ready gun vs iron sights gun, that savings can be applied to milling.
I’m stuck with a RMR footprint but that still gives me plenty of options
I used L&M for 2 M&P slides and I’ve been happy. He does request you send in your optic. I have changed RMR’s since milling so I don’t know if the size variations in optics is that great. My only nit pick is that Mark uses bigger screws than most and I’m not finding torx head replacement screws. I’d like to get away from hex head.
I used Battlewerks (sp) on a lone wolf Glock slide and it seems ok but it’s low round count.
The thing I’ve noticed about milling is that everyone recommends the place they used.
There are some established shops that have a long history of good work.
Technology is moving fairly quickly. If I had the option for MOS in my preferred gun, I’d choose it over direct mill.
That calculus might change if I was taking it to a war zone.
David S.
Finally getting on the optics bandwagon and saw your post about the rubber cement. I got my slide direct milled, so the tip of joining the slide to mounting plate isn't relevant, but the point about "capping" the screws is. Do you normally use this in place of loctite on the screws, or are you doing this in addition to the loctite?
I have done it a couple different ways.
I usually use just a little bit of blue loctite on the tip of the threads, but that’s usually not enough by itself under high volume shooting. But it’s small enough that I don’t have to struggle or use heat to get it off.
In addition to the blue loctite, I will either use a small blob on a toothpick on the underside of the screw head where it sits on the optic to resist vibration. If I do that, I’ll use a sharpie and witness mark the top so I know if it’s rotating.
Otherwise I put a little blob on top of the screw if it’s recessed or a little more that hangs over.
The goal is basically to prevent free rotation of the screw if the loctite starts to give, but easy enough to rub off and remove if desired.
Some optics manufacturers recommend blue loctite mating the screw head to the optic but that usually winds up being a PITA to get off later.