Creative Chicago Screw Tool Options

[RJ]

I have a new Blade Tech Classic OWB holster that arrived today. I need to remove the Tek-Lok accessory so I can attach it to my USPSA rig.

The problem is the three Chicago Screws that hold the Tek-Lok to the holster shell are just too tight for me to remove. I can't get any traction on the underside of the screw barrel (the "Chicago" part) in order to remove the screws.

Apparently what I need is a "Chicago Screw Tool" similar to this:



I am most likely going to order one (they're around $25) but I thought I would ask, since I only have three screws to undo, do any of ya'll know of any creative / cheap / efficient ways to hold the Chicago screw head in place enough to undo it?

I've spent the last half hour with various bits from my tool box but didn't really come up with anything that worked. I've tried coins, paint lid tools, needle nose, C-clamps, thick rubber washers, thin steel serrated lock washers, etc.

Since I have had this problem before, I am just about ready to order the tool and call it a day, but maybe the forum has the answer...

TIA...

[blues]

I didn't know there was such an animal. I think we should all have one.

[Cookie Monster]

I didn't know there was such an animal. I think we should all have one.

Can we get some made in PF orange?

[OlongJohnson]

Nevermind.

[RJ]

I was looking at both tool options this morning.

One is a modified vise-grip, that holds a rubber collar in place. This has mixed reviews. The other is a simple plastic pliers type, but I'm not quite clear on what the "holding" part looks like. I could not tell from the online pictures of the tools if there was or was not a "cleat" in the bearing surface of the tool to "hold" the chicago screw in place against the force needed for a loc-tited thread. I was worried if I ordered the tool, I'd just press rubber against the Chicago screw head and it would just continue to swivel, since the screws do appear loc-tihted in from Blade Tech.

So I cast about again this morning, and hit upon a picture hanging hook in my misc. box. I decided to try and "unbend" it and fashion a kind of small tool to allow one edge of it to press against the "ears" of the inner screws, just enough to get the grip to remove the loc-tited screw.



So I tried this with a small vise-grip, holding the "tool" in place on the shell, pressing in on the "ears."



This worked well enough I was able to remove all three screws in about 10 minutes. Pretty happy to get this done, and save $25. I really wish B/T would not use loc-tite on these threads, especially for a OWB holster for a very likely competition gun (G34.5) where folks are more than likely to use their own rig (like me; BS PS D/OH belt attachment).

[beenalongtime]

I would actually be interested to see how that tool works, as it looks like you have to be able to get under the head of the binding barrel.

Also, Chicago screws are also known as elevator bolts or sex bolts. They are intentionally designed to be difficult to remove.

[GearFondler]

While that tool might work to remove a Chicago Screw in some simple cases, I can produce 100 examples of where you would not be able reach the screw with said tool.
Heating the screw to break the thread locker is also suspect as it could easily deform the Kydex or other plastics.
Drilling it out is a PITA but is usually another option.

[blues]

While that tool might work to remove a Chicago Screw in some simple cases, I can produce 100 examples of where you would not be able reach the screw with said tool.
Heating the screw to break the thread locker is also suspect as it could easily deform the Kydex or other plastics.
Drilling it out is a PITA but is usually another option.

Have you a recommendation based upon your prior experience?

I've used gloves / rubber gloves to hold down the socket side while getting a driver on the screw...with varying results. Even a rubber block that I had on hand.

Worst issues were when I got a little overzealous with thread locker. (Haven't resorted to soldering iron tip (yet).

[GearFondler]

Have you a recommendation based upon your prior experience?

I've used gloves / rubber gloves to hold down the socket side while getting a driver on the screw...with varying results. Even a rubber block that I had on hand.

Worst issues were when I got a little overzealous with thread locker. (Haven't resorted to soldering iron tip (yet).

Each time (thankfully few of them so far) is unique.
I too have managed it with rubber gloves.
I've also cut a slot in the female side with a Dremel disc, or ground off the whole head with the Dremel. But those only work if you can get to the female side.
I've also managed to grab the edges with needle nose vise grips but that's not always possible either.
Drilling out the screw head can work but you have to keep the back side from spinning. If you can't stop the spinning you may have to grind the head off. The trick is to not also damage the Kydex or create enough heat to melt it... Proceed carefully and douse with water.
Cuss words also seem to help, the nastier the better.

[blues]

Each time (thankfully few of them so far) is unique.
I too have managed it with rubber gloves.
I've also cut a slot in the female side with a Dremel disc, or ground off the whole head with the Dremel. But those only work if you can get to the female side.
I've also managed to grab the edges with needle nose vise grips but that's not always possible either.
Drilling out the screw head can work but you have to keep the back side from spinning. If you can't stop the spinning you may have to grind the head off. The trick is to not also damage the Kydex or create enough heat to melt it... Proceed carefully and douse with water.
Cuss words also seem to help, the nastier the better.

Yep. I forgot, I've grabbed the rim with needle nose pliers as well. Works sometimes, not so much others.

I'm a pretty fair hand when it comes to cussing.