My m66-8 started skipping chambers a few months ago and was fixed with a new cylinder stop/spring.
Unfortunately it started again today. I didn't have much time to look at it but the cylinder stop still looks new.
I'm wondering if the notches got peened to death.
I'll post pics after work.
What are some things I should look for for other possible causes?
If you bought it new, maybe put the IL back in and call for a RMA label?
If we have to march off into the next world, let us walk there on the bodies of our enemies.
I had a S&W 5926 in for a checkup, and CS said they’re closed for maintenance until near the end of August. They’re supposed to send the pistol back next week, and I’ll have Dave Olhasso look at it. Sending and receiving will be open, but the CS rep didn’t give much hope for anything until September. 🤷🏼Originally Posted by Stephanie B
Ryan,
If you don’t mind me the ride another hour south of me… try Mike LaRocca in Worcester, MA.
http://laroccagunworks.com
Thanks, i'll reach out to them if I can't figure this one out
Not sure I want them monkeying around with it. Especially if they replace the cylinder since I had the throats reamed.
Look to see if there is peening on the leading (ramp side) of the cylinder stop notch, particularly as the ramp meets the notch. Peening build up there can depress the stop too far and make it skip the notch, instead of dropping into the notch like it should.
You can strip it down and see if the locking bolt fits cleanly into the cyinder notches and bottom out fully in the notch. One more data point.
Keeping in mind the issues with car parts, do you have another locking bolt spring? Being new doesnt mean it hasnt failed. I recall click and clack saying they had multiple bad rebuilt or new parts turn up (2 or 3 of the same part failing before they got a good one in at least one case) in trying to repair vehicles. Ive had multiple failed brand new GFI outlets (dead right out of the box), and have had boxes of GE breakers have very high failure rates per box of 10 or whatever they package them in. New doesnt guarantee good parts.
From some of the experiences related here, I think Id prefer to take a severe beating to sending a gun in to the S&W factory for repair.
A suggestion, whenever ordering small parts, always buy multiples, with the shipping cost, they end up being rather cheap and its cheap insurance, having extra parts around sure never hurt my feelings.
“Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
― Theodore Roosevelt
Instead of stoning a lip raised on either side of a notch, peen it with appropriate tool, either a rod or a square end punch. Also look at cylinder ring and note where it enters ramp leading into notch. Missing the mark will require recutting notches. Also you can adjust stop to increase how high step protrudes from frame. Heavier N frame cylinders offend in this way more often than do K frames.
Another malfunction can almost mimic skipping as described above. Hands not properly aligned can slip over the ratchets and turn the cylinder incompletely. The stop ends up between notches. My opinion is that if the revolver's action is properly set-up, skipping will not occur. But assembling by grabbing parts from a bucket does not serve everyone. Our large New Englander shoots his revolver extensively using full loads. I think he needs one to shoot and another to carry. He might try installing a much lighter Titanium cylinder. I bet the revolversmith in Massachusetts will fix the problem.
God, I miss that show.
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