Gen 4 Glock trigger mods?

[ViniVidivici]

My preferred trigger configuration for gen 2 and 3 Glocks is NY1 Trigger Spring w/ "-" Connector.

How can one achieve this in a gen 4? The different geometry of the gen 4 Trigger Housing holds the Connector at a different angle (hence the existence of the "dot" Connector), so that when attempting to duplicate my preferred setup, it yields a heavier than desired pull, and heavier break, nothing like my gen 2 and 3.

What are the options? Just wondering if there is something I've missed in my research, or if others have encountered this issue. Currently running it stock.

[Whirlwind06]

A '+' connector and a stronger striker spring?

[Wingate's Hairbrush]

If you're talking how to achieve that pull on a Gen4 using only factory parts, my experience says you can't, for the reasons you cited. I tried mightily using every connector and NY spring Glock makes in different combinations to no avail. Settled on all stock with the "." connector and a "good enough" mindset.

If there's aftermarket that achieves this, I'm not aware, but I also don't do aftermarket in Glocks.

[Nephrology]

All of my gen 4 guns have Gen 3 trigger/trigger bars swapped in. That little nub on the gen 4 trigger bar I find adds a heavy wall that I never got along with. It drops maybe 1/2 lb from the weight too, makes the break much more roll-y.

I havent used NY trigger springs in a long time though so I can't help you there.

[LOKNLOD]

My two Gen 4 19s both have arrived at triggers I really like. I'm much more about smooth and removing the inconsistently crunchy break than necessarily making it lighter, but could add a NY1 spring easily and up the weight a bit and keep the smoothness. I'm running Gen 3 G17 trigger bar (might as well get the smooth trigger, but it's not a huge deal for me), OEM springs, and OEM - connectors. One is just highly polished and has lots of rounds fired, but the other is an Overwatch that is NP3'd. The other piece of the puzzle is replacing the safety plunger with one that is rounded/polished/NP3'd as well. Apex has their "ultimate safety plunger" and overwatch sells NP3'd oem ones I believe. I think Overwatch sells NP3'd trigger bars (just the bar, no flat trigger) as well if you wanted to go a step further and have NP3 on NP3 contact points while maintaining OEM pieces.

One thing I have experimented with a bunch a few years back, is the NY1 unit with the coil spring removed or replaced. I will say, with the spring removed, I liked the way that it felt in my particular example, BUT, you're putting all your faith in bending stress of a polymer part not meant to operate in that way. I never had a problem with it, but I also couldn't bring myself to trust it for a defensive gun without the redundancy of the coil spring. If that felt good to you, I'd be confident running it for comp usage and just keeping an eye on it for maintenance cycles.

I tried to re-engineer the NY1 by tracking down an assortment of springs that were lighter (wanted something just enough to provide a bit of support for the polymer) but never was able to find something worth the effort from off the shelf stuff.

[ViniVidivici]

If you're talking how to achieve that pull on a Gen4 using only factory parts, my experience says you can't, for the reasons you cited. I tried mightily using every connector and NY spring Glock makes in different combinations to no avail. Settled on all stock with the "." connector and a "good enough" mindset.

If there's aftermarket that achieves this, I'm not aware, but I also don't do aftermarket in Glocks.

That is exactly where I'm at, to the letter.

[FreedomFries]

Last year I spent some time with different connectors and the NY1 spring in Gen 4 and Gen 5 Glocks. I tried the NY1 and factory "-" connector but didn't like the feel of it so I tried aftermarket connectors with the NY1 spring. The last combination I tried was the NY1 spring and Ghost Angel 3.0 connector which yielded a ~6.5 lbs trigger pull that reminded me of a hammer fired DAO except shorter travel. I cannot say if this is an appropriate or reliable combination because I am not an armorer and most armorers seem to recommend against aftermarket parts. Ammo was getting scarce and expensive, so I stopped my experiment after a few hundred rounds, but I didn't personally experience any malfunctions.

[Edster]

I tried to "NY1-isize" my Gen 4 and had no luck. My main reason for adopting a NY1 eons ago was to avoid a broken trigger return spring. The stiffer pull and lighter break with a minus connector was a bonus.

From what I understand, the later designs of the trigger bar with an angle greatly reduce the stress on the trigger return spring. Strike One.

The NY1 in the Gen4 with the stock bar was an unpleasant trigger. That frame-rubbing nub plus a NY1 is an unhappy, gritty combo. Strike Two.

I considered a Gen 3 bar but mixing different generations of parts in a carry gun was more trouble than I wanted to deal with. Strike Three.

I left it alone and settled for making sure to grease that little nub so it wasn't such a drag (pun intended).

[Padwan]

All of my gen 4 guns have Gen 3 trigger/trigger bars swapped in. That little nub on the gen 4 trigger bar I find adds a heavy wall that I never got along with. It drops maybe 1/2 lb from the weight too, makes the break much more roll-y.

This.^^^^

I ran a Gen 4 stock for about 18k rounds before trying this mod and I liked it better than the feel of the G4 trigger bar. I used to have a Minus connector onboard but after installing a G3 TB, I went back to a Dot.

[JonInWA]

OEM "." connector, with a light coat of Lucas Red & Tacky #2 grease on the triggerbar and connector interfacing surfaces. It provides a very nice, rolling triggerpull and a crisp break on my Gen4 G22.

Best, Jon