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Thread: Battery drain using remote switches

  1. #1

    Battery drain using remote switches

    I have a Surefire M600 DF on an AR. Currently, I’m activating it with a UE07 remote switch and running the Surefire 18650 battery that came with the light. I’ve noticed that the battery seems to drain very quickly while the light is not in use. I carry a handheld 18650 powered light daily and regular use it. That battery lasts multiple times longer than the one in my WML. Same thing with a different WML on another gun that doesn’t have a remote switch. I took this AR out today. At the beginning of my range session, the light worked when I checked it as part of loading up. By the end, the light was dead. I wasn’t using the light during the range session otherwise. Are remote switches prone to parasitic drain on the batteries? If that’s the issue, I’ll just go back to the clicky tail cap.
    My posts only represent my personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect the opinions or official policies of any employer, past or present. Obvious spelling errors are likely the result of an iPhone keyboard.

  2. #2
    Member Wake27's Avatar
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    Jun 2017
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    Eastern NC
    I'd reach out to SF because I assume its a battery issue. I've run SR07s for at least six years on a few M300s and M600Us, an M600IB, and three M600DFs and never noticed any type of drain, especially to that extent.

  3. #3
    Site Supporter JohnO's Avatar
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    Sep 2011
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    CT (behind Enemy lines)
    Swap batteries with your handheld and see if the problem moves.

  4. #4
    I’ve heard something along these lines before. And the x300 with the remote tailcap was immune to it because of the on/off switch. I’ve converted to unity switches for all but one Surefire (XVL2), so I’m not experiencing it.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnO View Post
    Swap batteries with your handheld and see if the problem moves.
    I’m trying the clicky tailcap first and then I’m going to try a battery swap.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wake27 View Post
    I'd reach out to SF because I assume its a battery issue. I've run SR07s for at least six years on a few M300s and M600Us, an M600IB, and three M600DFs and never noticed any type of drain, especially to that extent.
    If I can’t figure it out then I’ll definitely contact Surefire. This light has had a different problem before and I had to send it back once.
    My posts only represent my personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect the opinions or official policies of any employer, past or present. Obvious spelling errors are likely the result of an iPhone keyboard.

  6. #6
    Member TGS's Avatar
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    Apr 2011
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    Back in northern Virginia
    @DanM, I have your exact same setup and don't have that issue.
    "Are you ready? Okay. Let's roll."- Last words of Todd Beamer

  7. #7
    I fully charged the Surefire 18650 battery on 12/28/20 and installed the clicky tailcap. I clicked it on a couple of times a day to test. Today, 01/03/21, the light wouldn’t work. I replaced the Surefire battery with a different one and the light worked. Then I tried the Surefire battery in a different light and that light worked with the Surefire battery. Now I have no idea if it’s a battery issue or a hardware issue. I contacted Surefire through their website.
    My posts only represent my personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect the opinions or official policies of any employer, past or present. Obvious spelling errors are likely the result of an iPhone keyboard.

  8. #8
    Ready! Fire! Aim! awp_101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
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    DFW
    Is there an electrical equivalent of tolerance stacking?
    Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits - Mark Twain

    Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy / Where is the wisdom we have lost in knowledge?

  9. #9
    I've read/heard of so many electrical issues with the SF DF lights that I just decided to bite the bullet and go with the Modlite PLHV2 (which has been flawless) and now am waiting on a backorder to try a Cloud Defensive Rein.

  10. #10
    Member SecondsCount's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Utah, USA
    I would take an ohmeter and measure the resistance between the center contact and the outer shell of the switch connection. Press the switch and it should go to zero. Measure again without pressing and it should go to greater than 1M ohms.

    My guess is that you have a faulty battery. There is a way that you could measure battery draw with the switch released but it would be difficult to setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by awp_101 View Post
    Is there an electrical equivalent of tolerance stacking?
    Yes but most electrical problems are mechanical.
    -Seconds Count. Misses Don't-

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