Electric water heater question

[LittleLebowski]

My water heater has sucked since getting replaced (and replaced again) over the past three years under warranty. 240v water heater on 10 gauge wire and a 30 amp breaker, and the breaker isn’t getting tripped. I’ve got brand new 5500w elements installed (in an attempt to fix this issue with the dearth of hot water in my house and the water heater is rated for 6000w elements), yet the problem persists.

I just checked and both thermostats on the water heater are getting 240, but one thermostat didn’t show any current at all (top) and one showed 240 (bottom). Is this normal or have I pinpointed an issue?

[LittleLebowski]

It looks like this is normal as most electric water heaters are set up for non-simultaneous heating with the elements, which just means only one element is on at a time. So, unless the top element never turns on; I haven’t found my issue. If I do not find an issue, I might just upgrade to this 6000w element because I’m pretty tired of running out of hot water.

Any thoughts/ideas?

[Paso Quito]

When I was growing up with four sisters we had the same problem. My dad was an electrician and fixed the problem by running a second 10 ga line to the water heater and powering each element separately. With both elements able to operate simultaneously we didn't run out of hot water. However, I would guess that this is not approved by the mfg. of the water heater or the electrical inspector. As far as I know our water heater was connected this way for 40+ years.

[MickAK]

The top element is supposed to come on first. The top/bottom elements are not interchangeable, so that may be your issue. You might look into the elements that you replaced and make sure they're correct for the specific top/bottom application.

I don't think 500 more watts will help, it sounds more like a thermostat/timing issue.

[LittleLebowski]

The top element is supposed to come on first. The top/bottom elements are not interchangeable, so that may be your issue. You might look into the elements that you replaced and make sure they're correct for the specific top/bottom application.

I don't think 500 more watts will help, it sounds more like a thermostat/timing issue.

Here’s the instruction manual and spec sheet on it, it’s the “EN6 50 DORT” and I can’t find anything regarding differing elements. Both of the 4500w elements looked the same except for color of the bottom plastic when I swapped them for the 5500w ones. I’ve got the temp cranked up, of course.

https://www.statewaterheaters.com/li...sress00315.pdf

https://www.statewaterheaters.com/li...184671-000.pdf

Pic of the old elements.

[NukeRef]

LL, what do you mean by "dearth of hot water"? Exactly what problem are you having? Running out of hot water too quickly? Perhaps the tank is too small. Waiting too long for hot water at the faucet? Perhaps there is a line blockage or the pipes runs are very long. Are the pipes exposed and insulated? Do you live in a very cold area? Have you considered a Watts or Grundfos hot water recirculating system?

[LittleLebowski]

LL, what do you mean by "dearth of hot water"? Exactly what problem are you having? Running out of hot water too quickly? Perhaps the tank is too small. Waiting too long for hot water at the faucet? Perhaps there is a line blockage or the pipes runs are very long. Are the pipes exposed and insulated? Do you live in a very cold area? Have you considered a Watts or Grundfos hot water recirculating system?

Running out of hot water too quickly. It’s a 50 gallon tank, I don’t think that’s too small. Most of the pipes are insulated with foam and now are exposed to the outside. I have not looked into the Watts or Grundfos systems but I will now.

[NukeRef]

The top element is supposed to come on first. The top/bottom elements are not interchangeable, so that may be your issue. You might look into the elements that you replaced and make sure they're correct for the specific top/bottom application.

I don't think 500 more watts will help, it sounds more like a thermostat/timing issue.

The LOWER element should come on first. They should be set to the same temperature or the upper element slightly higher. Cold water comes in the bottom (through a tube from the top, lest anyone wants to correct me by saying the pipes go in the top), hot water comes out the top.

Agreed that the controllers are different, although depending on the brand the actual elements may be the same.

[NukeRef]

I’ve got the temp cranked up, of course.

Arrgh! Don't arbitrarily "crank the temp up". Could become too hot and also wastes energy.

[MickAK]

Here’s the instruction manual and spec sheet on it, it’s the “EN6 50 DORT” and I can’t find anything regarding differing elements. Both of the 4500w elements looked the same except for color of the bottom plastic when I swapped them for the 5500w ones. I’ve got the temp cranked up, of course.

https://www.statewaterheaters.com/li...sress00315.pdf

https://www.statewaterheaters.com/li...184671-000.pdf

Pic of the old elements.

Looks like those are interchangeable.

The LOWER element should come on first. They should be set to the same temperature or the upper element slightly higher. Cold water comes in the bottom (through a tube from the top, lest anyone wants to correct me by saying the pipes go in the top), hot water comes out the top.

Agreed that the controllers are different, although depending on the brand the actual elements may be the same.

Technically the top comes on first, then the bottom comes on when the top thermostat is satisfied, but you're correct, in normal usage the bottom kicks on first because the cold water comes in there.