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Thread: Not Flaring With Dillon Powder Measure

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by WDR View Post
    I too noticed brass sticking more after wet tumbling. Using some sort of lube like One Shot, or car wash/wax in the brass does help. This problem can also be caused by a dirty powder funnel/expander... or a damaged one. A small scratch from dirty brass starts grabbing brass pretty quickly, and once built up, will cause sticking on the down stroke. JB bore compound on a patch, and polishing the expander helps. I've also had that happen in a sizing die (Lee .223) and I ended up polishing the hell out of it with JB on a tight patch over an AR-15 chamber brush.

    Lyman "M" dies can be helpful... and there is a company or two that makes a powder through expander with an M die type step built in.
    I just replaced my original Dillon powder funnel because of this.Since I'm wet tumbling anymore I don't think this issue will reappear, plus my new powder funnel is hardened, Dillons wasn't.
    Malo periculosam, libertatem quam quietam servitutem
    I prefer the tumult of liberty to the quiet of servitude
    -Thomas Jefferson
    I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery.

  2. #22
    Member SecondsCount's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
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    I don't wet tumble, but sometimes I will let extra dirty brass soak in hot water with a little lemishine, and rinse in clean water. After that, I put it in the dry tumbler to put some polish back on the brass and make it slicker.
    -Seconds Count. Misses Don't-

  3. #23
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    Jul 2017
    Location
    Texas
    The Redding lube will work great.

  4. #24
    Reviewing this topic makes me also think the Armanov funnel might be helping me, because the nipple portion that gets shoved into and drug out of the case is much shorter (just random pics I found):

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  5. #25
    I started wet tumbling a while back and the squeaky clean, wet tumbled brass sticks more than dry tumbled brass.

    I use Armor All Wash N' Wax in the wet mixture prior to sizing and One Shot as well once the brass is dry.

    I don't get any more sticking using this method than with dry tumbling.

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by mmc45414 View Post
    I am probably just being anti-establishment, but one thing I never liked was flaring with the powder measure. It just seems like consistently measuring powder is important enough that the measure should just have one job. A while back I migrated to using the Hornady Lock-N-Load measure and I like them and will continue to use them for rifle, but it seems like with high volume pistol loading I was experiencing problems with the thing returning, even after I added more symmetrical springs like I posted about here. But I really liked being able to flare with the Universal Case Expanding Die and since the Hornady measure wasn't using the return rod it was no problem to flare separately in station two and move the measure to station three. But it seems like no matter how much spring pressure I added the Hornady measure was more prone to getting dirty and sticking. The no-brainer would be to clean the thing more often, but...

    I decided to go back to the Dillon measure and use station three for the powder check probe I got for rifles. But after only a couple hundred I remembered what I do not like, pulling the flare die out of the case is just clunky, and maybe I am just becoming a old girly man, but is at an awkward point in the cycle of the handle. And I think this is why there is a lot of spilled powder, because this happens while the shell plate is being rotated.

    Then it occurred to me that if there is room for the bullet on top of the charge there would be room for the flare tool to do its thing after the case had been charged. So I shortened the flare tool to leave only what it needs to do a 9mm case and installed one of the rifle powder funnels that doesn't flare. But the rifle funnel was too short to actuate the measure. I looked at the chart to see if maybe there could be a longer rifle funnel, but then decided I had an extra 9mm funnel to experiment with. Used a cutoff wheel and then a sander and this is working great!

    Attachment 64701

    I decided that with the mechanical reset of the measure I can live without the powder check.

    Anyway, just throwing this out in case anybody else cares
    My dillon seems to work just fine. Load .44, 9MM and .38. I don't use lube as that would kind of defeat the purpose of a progressive.
    I don't wet tumble as that also seems to slow things down.

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Pistol Pete 10 View Post
    My dillon seems to work just fine.
    Yeah, like I have reiterated, Dillons work just fine.

  8. #28

    Powder dies and neck expanding on a Dillon 1050

    I changed the swaging die on my 1050 for a Lee flaring die. I removed the guts from the Lee flaring die and replaced them with NOE Expander. They come in any diameter you can want. I use a Double Alpha expander in my Dillon powder measure. It cured most of my 9mm, 38/357, 40, and 45 issues with the powder measure sticking. I put my Double alpha expanders into my lathe and polished both the inside and outside with 800 grit abrasive. I am runing a Mark VII autodrive. I have just purchased FW Arms Prime Time, primer systems for my machines. I will be moving over from Dillon OEM toolheads to Fast Brass CNC toolheads. The smoother you can make a 1050 run, the less problems you will have and the faster you can load. I am using a Fowler Bullet Dropper without issue.
    Nat Lambeth

  9. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Nat Lambeth View Post
    I changed the swaging die on my 1050 for a Lee flaring die. I removed the guts from the Lee flaring die and replaced them with NOE Expander. They come in any diameter you can want.
    I just learned of these things over on Enos (was that you?...) and they look interesting. Will be a few months before I am back to 9mm (will be working on 223 for a while) then I intend to try them. And I even already have the Lee flare die

  10. #30

    Can't say it was me over at Brian Enos website

    Quote Originally Posted by mmc45414 View Post
    I just learned of these things over on Enos (was that you?...) and they look interesting. Will be a few months before I am back to 9mm (will be working on 223 for a while) then I intend to try them. And I even already have the Lee flare die
    I was over there less than 3 days. One of their over vigilent moderators jumped my back side. I did not want to get is pissing match and told them to just remove me from their site as I would not be posting their anymore. I only made one post in their reloading forum inquiring about a CNC Toolhead for a Dillon 1050. I put the same post on this forum. I have since found a source for the CNC Toolheads for Dillon 1050/1100. I have over 55 years of shooting, reloading, and gunsmith experience plus 34 years in Lawenforcement. I now am a licensed 007 Gun Manufacture and 006 Ammunition Manufacture. I doubt there are many other folks out there with more Dillon reloading experience than myself. I have 5 Dillon presses two with Mark VII auto drives.
    So far the folks here have been very friendly and accomodating. I hope to offend no one and learn as much as possible Nat Lambeth
    Custom Guns and Ammunition, LLC

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