All of my GP100s (and I have...6) have the Wilson 10lb mainspring. Some have the stock trigger return spring and some a lighter trigger return spring. I won Master class at IDPA Nationals in 2014 using a 357 Mag GP100 with a 10lb mainspring and 8lb trigger return spring; this year I've got 2k+ rounds on a 10mm GP100 using that same spring combo. It's pretty tight.
Are you still religious about your use of Federal primers? Asking because I got light strikes with a Wolff 10lb in a GPNY—and the GPNY is .38 only. Going to an 11 seemed to cure it, but I settled on 12lbs anyways, in order to be able to shoot whatever was on sale or available in bulk, eg. Magtech or something, with a gun in various stages of cleanliness.Originally Posted by jetfire
If you are going to reduce springs, you should reduce friction; just putting in weaker springs on rough parts is not an "action job."
My criterion for springs on a carry weapon is that it must fire reloads with CCI primers.
I have one gun that requires the stock mainspring, one that let me go down one notch.
Match guns get the Federal primers and limber springs.
Code Name: JET STREAM
Yeah, pretty much. I've got like 2k rounds of 130gr American Eagle for the 357s, and 3k of Syntech Action Pistol in 40 S&W for the 10mm guns. In my 9mm Super GP100 I get like 75% ignition on the first strike on S&B primers, and then they crack on the second hit, so I only use those for practice. It's a little bit of a pain in the dick trying to hunt down Federal ammo, and I've had to pay a premium for American Eagle a couple of times now.
Makes total sense, thanks.
jetfire,
Do you carry the 10mm GP100 as a 'daily carry gun'? If so I'd be very interested in what your chosen ammo is. I believe you've said you practice and/or compete with 40 S&W. That begs the question of whether you carry 40s as a self-defense load.
I ask because the 10mm GP is the only member of that family I'd consider buying. I've shot 45 ACP revolvers for years and am completely comfortable with the concept and use of Moonclips. The S&W 610 was always a turnoff because it was the same size as my 45 ACP N-frames...and heavier.
Dave
Before I started on my current revolver project, I was carrying a 3 inch Wiley Clapp 10mm GP100 as an EDC in a JM Custom Kydex holster. I used TK Custom moonclips in 40 S&W and loaded the gun with 40 S&W 180 grain Federal HST. I went with the HST because it delivers great terminal results, and hit right behind the front sight like a laser beam.
Excellent arguments for you choice of ammo. Did you ever consider 10mm loads? Did they not shoot to the sights, or were you not impressed with the 10mm ballistics?
Dave
When I first started carrying it I was rocking Federal 10mm Hydra Shoks. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the 10mm Hydra Shok other than it being an older JHP design. The dirty little secret though is that it's also one of the 10mm Lite loads, so it's downloaded to what would eventually become standard 40 S&W pressure. Federal does make a 10mm HST load, which if you look at the ballistic tests does exactly the same thing as the 40 S&W load. Pre-pandemic, 40 S&W HSTs were a lot easier to get than 10mm, so I figured I'd take advantage of the ammo available and go with the more common 40.
Honestly, you should not NEED to alter EDC guns. Other than sights. IMHO
Only other exception for me...it can not abrade me or leave me bleeding in normal uses.
How well you use a tool will be affected by pain or irritation received in its use.
I will drag a file, sanding material or a F-ing hatchet to an offending ballistic tool to mitigate this!
"WE" all need to master the fundamentals.
You just need to dry fire the hell out of your EDC guns!
Hell, dry fire any gun you wish to shoot well!!!
Guns are just machines and without you they can do no harm, nor any good
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