Revolver Newbie. Be Nice(ish).

[Clark Jackson]

*Mods: I'm delving into the world of revolvers and thought I'd start here. I realize I may be kicking several dead horses. If this post is not appropriate, please move/delete as necessary. Thanks.

I have had revolvers previously, but never used them for daily carry (or even night-stand carry) aside from use as a back-up to a full or compact semi-auto. A myriad of circumstances have evolved my thought process and I am working towards the use of a revolver as a primary SD tool in EDC and NS capacities.

That being said, I fully acknowledge my lack of revolver hardware knowledge and would greatly appreciate some guidance on all things revolver.

I figured I would start where I think most people start... cleaning up the notorious DA trigger found on many stock revolvers.

In this instance, I want to clean up the triggers on a SP101 and GP100. I want a cleaner DA pull but do not want to sacrifice reliability with factory SD loads.

The SP101 options:
Hammer Springs in 10# and 12# with a Trigger Spring in 10#.

The GP100 options:
Hammer Springs in 9#, 10#, 12# and Trigger Springs in 8# and 10#.

All springs supplied by Wilson Combat (SP101 Kit #349 and GP100 Kit #246)

Thanks in advance for the time and knowledge.

[okie john]

For carry guns, smooth up the existing parts. Dry-firing several thousand times does this pretty well. Leave the springs alone and learn to shoot them at factory weight.

Sky's the limit with gamer guns.

On Rugers, I also like to break all of the sharp edges on or near the trigger and guard with a piece of emory cloth.


Okie John

[JRV]

I know there are folks that are fine with decreasing mainspring force on defensive revolvers, especially those that will eat only Federal factory SD ammo in their use, but there are probably quite a few of us that will recommend against it. Defensive guns should be able to detonate anything available in the commercial market, especially when we’re in a drought.

You’re better off having a good smith give things a once-over with an India stone to make sure the internals are burr-free, and some revolvers benefit from very thin shims around triggers and hammers to remove slop. Dry-fire trigger jobs alone can make certain flaws on the edges of metal pieces worse, but they will polish most bearing surfaces.

And buy some Captains of Crush. Eleven pound triggers are nothing when you’re repping out 100+ lb gripper reps.

[FrankB]

Here’s the way I see it. Ever kick start a motorcycle? It can seem insurmountable at first, but it becomes super easy with proper technique and follow through. I had an SP101 that I changed the hammer spring on, but sold it a week later. I watch my fair share of youtube gun channels, and nothing drives me more crazy than watching a shooter S-L-O-W-L-Y pull a DA trigger back. Picture a smooth pull all the way back, with the end of your trigger pull being the goal. Works for me, and even my tiny hand wife. A close second would be staging a trigger. I believe that’s a dangerous technique outside of a range, and slower than simply pulling the hammer back into SA. Taking 30 seconds to aim at a 7 yard target also grinds my gears.... 🥴🥴🥴

P.S. I personally know a Ruger team member, and have fired his slicked up revolvers. Their triggers have very little resistance, and measure a few pounds. He loads his own with light primers, and does NOT carry them defensively.

[Guerrero]

In this instance, I want to clean up the triggers on a SP101 and GP100. I want a cleaner DA pull but do not want to sacrifice reliability with factory SD loads.

Start here:

https://www.kevinsworkbench.com/sp101trigger/

SP101 and GP100 are pretty much the same inside. Follow the instructions and do some simple polishing with silver/brass polish. Put it back together. Dry fire it a few hundred times. That will probably get you 90+% of the way there.

[Hizzie]

Start here:

https://www.kevinsworkbench.com/sp101trigger/

SP101 and GP100 are pretty much the same inside. Follow the instructions and do some simple polishing with silver/brass polish. Put it back together. Dry fire it a few hundred times. That will probably get you 90+% of the way there.

Right there’s the ticket. Burr’s and dirt are most of the problem. The newer hammer and trigger designs preclude the need for shims. The older stuff definitely benefits from them. Keep in mind you want a brisk trigger return or you run the risk of the trigger not resetting or not resetting fast enough.

[Hizzie]

Some hack wrote an article that spawned a huge discussion here:
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....article-in-MSW


Revolvers in general:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YmAEAX6m00I

Snubbies:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ov3H-_WQwAI

Kydex
JM Custom Kydex for GP and SP rigs

Pester Tom at Dark Star Gear about his SP101 Apollo.



Push to load > twisty speed loaders.

Safariland Comp I or Comp II for carry Comp III for games

JetLoaders

SpeedBeez

S L Variants

[Totem Polar]

Others have steered your boat to the correct shore. I can vouch that a judicious stoning is both prudent and easy to do on modern Rugers. I’ve done my own modest work on a half-dozen or so, with great results over the years. I’ve personally found that wolff #12 main springs help, and all have been totally reliable for me. Probably wouldn’t go #10 for a duty/serious gun. Leave the return alone. JMO.

[Rex G]

Add me to the list of members recommending that the Ruger factory springs be used, and in unaltered condition. A carry gun’s mainspring MUST ignite the primer. A carry gun’s trigger return spring MUST return that trigger right quickly.

The main thing I have done, to improve smoothness, is to smooth the corners and edges of the relevant part of the mainspring strut, and that has not always been necessary.

It takes some amount of time and dedication for long-stroke DA to “click,” and it is not simply a matter of hand strength. One has to learn to work the trigger finger muscles independently of the hand’s other muscles, which are gripping the weapon.

[kitchen's mill]

I would normally advise not to "modify" a stock gun, but Rugers can be improved with a light clean up.

I safely dry fire at least a few hundred times before attempting any work on internals. Most competent smiths would recommend the same before you send it to them. Break the gun in first.

Then on the Rugers just clean up the internals, leave the springs, especially the trigger return spring as is. They also benefit from radiusing the face of the tigger, those sharp edges make the trigger feel worse than it is.

I also like to remove the hammer spur, if you do chop it first before any trigger work.

Avoid any work that leaves the gun unsafe or unrealiable.

People hate to hear it, but a light trigger on a modified gun can be used against you.