I did that pulling when trying to install a scope base on a 10/22: the plug screw didn’t want to come out of the receiver, and more pressure didn’t help it move, just made it fall apart in there.Originally Posted by SCCY Marshal
Upside was I got to completely strip a 10/22 for the first time ever and send the receiver to Ruger. Who pulled the screw, and refinished the receiver while they were at it (very much a needed thing on that old rifle), and I paid only the shipping to them.
Never managed to find a replacement hammer nose long enough to function. So I just ordered two full hammers on E-bay. Well, both with noses. Anyway, one came in with a sprung nose and one free tilting like the one I broke. Opted to put in the sprung unit as it was in better shape (free-tilting had a flat developing on the bottom at the tip). While testing with snap caps, all looked good until checking single-action. It's not the worst case of push-off I've seen but still won't carry a gun with ANY. Now to check the other hammer and see if that will work. This little issue is turning into months of disappointment.
Not sure if this is helpful but:
https://jackfirstinc.com/sw-old-mode...iring-pin-7580
I've used some of their reproduction parts in a couple antique semiautos with good results. Don't know if the hammer nose you need for the 67 is a match for this but probably worth a look.
no one sees what's written on the spine of his own autobiography.
Looks promising. I'll get one or two ordered up after payday. Thanks!
Third hammer seems promising. Double-action sear needed fitting so I just used the one from my original hammer, instead. No push-off with this arrangement. Looking at the bad hammer, somone significantly thinned the engagement surface and chased the dragon too far. I'll keep that one, bob it, grind off the single-action surface entirely, and pair with the double-action bits for future fitment to a gun that might use such a thing.
I'll head out to run a box of ammo around lunch and check for reliable ignition. Probably ball and dummy draws to first hits for a couple cylinders then the rest precision shooting from seven to twenty-five yards both single and double-action. If it works, I'll finally have my field and camping gun back.
A 158 grain semi-wadcutter or round nose flat point with wide meplat moving at a staid pace is a bit more reasonable and easier on the ears for opportunistic shots at squirrel, rabbit, grouse, crow, 'coon, 'possum, fox, and such than a full magnum JHP. Gun's lighter than the 28 that's been filling the slot as well.
Making the Combat Masterpiece out of stainless was one of Smith's better ideas. Shame it wasn't more popular.
Forty-two rounds downrange without an issue beyond my ammo shortage induced skill atrophy. Now I just need to cast and powdercoat more of my wide meplat 158 grain RNFP and cook up a Unique load that will hit to sights in my model 10s and clock 800+ feet per second. Zero the 67 for that and call it good.
About 5 grains of Unique should do it. Something cleaner-burning would be nice if you have any.
What mold are you casting from? Pictures?
A six cavity Lee 358-158-RF. This short thread on Cast Boolits covers it well with mold photo on page 1 and photo of bullet and loaded cartridge on the second page:
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ain-flat-point
I like it, so far. Casts well with range scrap, takes powder coat well, sizes easily, the bevel base lets me bell my cases a bit less for possible longevity, plays nice with Unique in 38 Special, and ~1,200FPS H110 loads in 357 Magnum. My seating die marks a score through the powder coat around the ogive, though. Meplat is so fat both the round nose and SWC seating plugs do it. Other than aesthetics, it isn't enough to cause any bother so I'm not spending money on another die or plug.
Good looking bullet. I can't cast anymore so I'm a bit envious. (smile)
Dave
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