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Thread: #RevolverCurious

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by camsdaddy View Post
    Is there any preference between hard cast and hollow base?
    In the context of defensive use in snubbies, not to the best of my knowledge. Hollow-based wadcutters tend to be more accurate, but don't stabilize as well at distance in standard S&W barrels with their 1-18.75" twist. Custom PPC revolvers often had 1-10" twist barrels to mitigate this tendency. Colt Pythons, as well as Smythons, were popular too due to the 1-14" barrel twist.

    Hard cast wadcutters can be pushed faster, but since the factory HBWCs penetrate to the desired depth from a snubby, I don't see how this matters.

  2. #82
    Murder Machine, Harmless Fuzzball TCinVA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCCY Marshal View Post
    Edit: You typed "preference" and I read "difference." Whoops!

    I prefer hollow base just because, the apocalypse notwithstanding, Federal Gold Medal Match is relatively inexpensive, available, and soft shooting.
    That's what I use.
    3/15/2016

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCCY Marshal View Post
    Edit: You typed "preference" and I read "difference." Whoops!

    I prefer hollow base just because, the apocalypse notwithstanding, Federal Gold Medal Match is relatively inexpensive, available, and soft shooting.
    I hope you don’t mind I copied and pasted the reply you deleted. This is one of the best explanations I’ve seen comparing the two.
    Thank you

    At the most basic level, hardness. Hollow base bullets need to be left soft for the skirt to obturate to the bore as intended. So the hollow base will more readily deform when hitting hard objects. A too-hard cast bullet can lead barrels with the best of them if missized to the gun's bore and also fragment if it hits hard objects. Buffalo Bore seems to have its hardness dialed in so frangibility is only a potential concern in other brands, components, and home casting.

    On a common but not inherent point, hard cast tend to be designed with a slightly rounded shoulder and to be loaded proud of the case versus sharp shouldered and flush with a hollow base. The rounded, exposed shoulder make reloading a hair smoother as it is not only round but also narrower by two case wall thicknesses when meeting the charge hole.

    Out of a snub and into a person, the difference has more to do with loading than the bullets themselves. Hard cast deforming less readily and tending to be parked over a stouter powder charge usually sees them penetrating further than the usual target loaded hollow bases.

  4. #84
    Member feudist's Avatar
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    What's the thinking on bobbed hammer vs, being able to cock?

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by feudist View Post
    What's the thinking on bobbed hammer vs, being able to cock?
    The bobbed hammer is usually indicative of a DAO revolver; the spur is then considered superfluous. For a pocket gun, a spurless hammer makes it easier to draw from the pocket without snagging.

    IMO, there's no need for single-action capability on a defensive revolver. OTOH, there is a use for the hammer spur on a defensive revolver, even one that's been rendered DAO. It permits the shooter, during an administrative load/reload, to pull the hammer back far enough to free the cylinder to rotate and verify that the rounds are seated and that there are no high primers. There isn't universal agreement on the usefulness of this, but I find it useful.

  6. #86
    Quote Originally Posted by feudist View Post
    What's the thinking on bobbed hammer vs, being able to cock?
    For a fixed-sight carry gun? Team Bob:




    That 2" Model 10 wouldn't jive with the Baramis if it had a spur.

    There is also the compromise of a partial bob to leave enough of a nub for disengaging the cylinder stop and allow checks for high primers/proud case heads. Though I'd still prefer the slick nature of a full bob on a social M10:


    An N-frame but gives the idea. Having the snaggy adjustable rear, I didn't mind leaving some spur.

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by revchuck38 View Post
    The bobbed hammer is usually indicative of a DAO revolver; the spur is then considered superfluous. For a pocket gun, a spurless hammer makes it easier to draw from the pocket without snagging.

    IMO, there's no need for single-action capability on a defensive revolver. OTOH, there is a use for the hammer spur on a defensive revolver, even one that's been rendered DAO. It permits the shooter, during an administrative load/reload, to pull the hammer back far enough to free the cylinder to rotate and verify that the rounds are seated and that there are no high primers. There isn't universal agreement on the usefulness of this, but I find it useful.
    If the design of your holster requires a retention strap, there is little for that retention strap to hold without a hammer spur. As long as your holster can retain the gun without the hammer spur, the hammer spur does more harm than good on a concealed carry revolver.


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    Any legal information I may post is general information, and is not legal advice. Such information may or may not apply to your specific situation. I am not your attorney unless an attorney-client relationship is separately and privately established.

  8. #88
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
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    I guess Im in the minority, but I like having a hammer spur. Ive never been able to shoot DA as well as SA on small targets or at distance. I also shoot SA revolvers, and have nothing at all against SA in a DA revolver. I consider most of my guns as general purpose, even short ones and like the capability of being able to shoot them to the best possible ability if I wanted to. I do grind target hammer spurs down to service size though, the long Smith target spurs infringe on hand space when cocking them SA. Comparing both in use, the service size is plenty. De-burring the edges and excessive sharpness of the hammer checkering or knurling reduces wear on clothes etc.
    “Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
    ― Theodore Roosevelt

  9. #89
    Depending on what you end up with (it is for the newer guns), Apex makes this replacement hammer:
    https://www.apextactical.com/k-l-frame-hammer-kit-1

    It is a alotta cash for something you can cut off with a grinder, but it would be reversible. And it comes with a spring kit including their extended firing pin. It is completely flush with the frame contour, what I think is a cool look. It believe it is also made of a more dense material, and lacks some of the material saving reliefs that are not visible when the hammer is in the gun. That factory hammer is MIM, and I am sure modern MIM is fine but we all like to hate MIM. All these are advantages to help justify to myself that I spent $159 on something months ago that is still in the package, but it is an option.

  10. #90
    Modding this sack of shit BehindBlueI's's Avatar
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    For me part of the draw of revolvers, at least "classic" revolvers, is the aesthetics. I prefer the look of a shroud to a bobbed hammer. I also like the increased tactile feedback of the spur while thumbing the hammer to holster. This is not an argument based on science and logic, of course. Unless the removal of mass reduces the reliability of the gun (some Colts come to mind) then I'd say dealer's choice.
    Sorta around sometimes for some of your shitty mod needs.

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