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Thread: LL's revolver quest, got a WC GP100

  1. #61
    Site Supporter Lon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Totem Polar View Post
    Actually, the best-selling series originally started as a discussion on another gun forum about how all the people in horror movies made terrible choices and, gee, wouldn't it be cool if someone wrote a story where people shot back at vampires and werewolves and stuff with high-powered small arms?

    I think that they’re great fun, myself, but I posted because one of the little old lady characters in the novels does work with a Redhawk.
    Good ole Dorcas. A right fine Biblical name. Just don’t eat her pudding cups.
    Formerly known as xpd54.
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  2. #62
    Modding this sack of shit BehindBlueI's's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanM View Post
    For those who own a Ruger GP100 that has one of the darker finishes, how is the finish in terms of durability and corrosion resistance? Is it like a Glock where you don’t need to think about it much past wiping sweat off, or is it more like a classic blued gun that needs to be wiped down and oiled regularly?
    My WC is the "Hawkeye Blue" and the finish was very thin and not very corrosion resistant. So much so it rusted over the roll mark almost immediately. Ruger refinished it under warranty and those with later ones have reported a more robust resistance, but I'd oil it.
    Sorta around sometimes for some of your shitty mod needs.

  3. #63
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    If it’s primarily to carry it, I’d get a 2.5-3” round butt Kframe with a bobbed hammer and go to town. All of them I’ve handled, fired, or owned have been fantastic. If you get a new one and the lock bothers you, pull it and plug it.

    I like the GP, but I’d much rather be carrying a Kframe. But if it’s about shooting and carrying a Magnum, a GP100 or Lframe will probably be a more optimum choice.

  4. #64
    This thread reminds me I have that (already plugged) 686+ 3" I traded for waiting for the Apex hammer and C&S Extreme Duty sight to be installed, especially since it is already sitting in the JMCK AIWB while resting in the safe, and I have a couple of HKS loaders waiting as well. I just went so AR batshit on furlough I lost my focus.

    I do not have as much AIWB experience as others here, but I will dogpile on the idea that the K size would be easy, the GP/L would be very do-able, the Redhawk/N size would be a stretch. You are a couple inches taller and weigh what I should, you should find it easier than the G-17. For me it makes a big difference on where exactly it is positioned on your belt, but that area of your anatomy might be flatter than it is on me.

    Quote Originally Posted by LittleLebowski View Post
    Yup, I reload. No issues there.
    If you do not have a bunch of brass I suggest loading .357 but scrutinize the faster powders, especially for a 3" barrel. Full power .357 loads with 2400 or H110 are just redonkulous, but the fastest .38 +P load will be slower than the slowest .357 load. IMO a slow .357 load might be the sweet spot, might mimic common 9mm loads and I do not think you can get there with .38 +P. Once I figure all of this out I plan to accommodate my fixed rear sight with a Dawson front FO sight, they get pretty granular on the height options. The biggest challenge might be to find a commercial carry option.

  5. #65
    Quote Originally Posted by BehindBlueI's View Post
    My WC is the "Hawkeye Blue" and the finish was very thin and not very corrosion resistant. So much so it rusted over the roll mark almost immediately. Ruger refinished it under warranty and those with later ones have reported a more robust resistance, but I'd oil it.
    Thanks. I know I’ve been spoiled by Glock’s finish and was surprised to see corrosion on other people’s guns from sweat and humidity. How often do you need to open your WC up to check the internals for corrosion?
    My posts only represent my personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect the opinions or official policies of any employer, past or present. Obvious spelling errors are likely the result of an iPhone keyboard.

  6. #66
    Modding this sack of shit BehindBlueI's's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanM View Post
    Thanks. I know I’ve been spoiled by Glock’s finish and was surprised to see corrosion on other people’s guns from sweat and humidity. How often do you need to open your WC up to check the internals for corrosion?
    I don't know, as it lives mostly in the safe since then. I got the MC shortly afterward and found the 4" to be no extra bother, and it's stainless, so my WC is just brought out for the occasional fondle.
    Sorta around sometimes for some of your shitty mod needs.

  7. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by feudist View Post
    @jetfire, quick followup: does that include hot .38s?
    Honestly it depends on how well the bullet is crimped. Some of the light crimp junk stuff will yeet itself right out, but I wouldn't worry toooooo much if I'm shooting quality SD ammo.

    Back to the thread at hand, I have done pretty much everything in this thread. Before I switched to the ACRO'd L-frames, I was EDC'ing a Ruger GP100 WC in 10mm, loaded with 180gr HST 40 S&W, since it shot those right behind the green dot on the front sight. Before that I've carried a 357 Mag GP100 WC as well.

    If I could only ever have one revolver for carry, training, and classes, it would definitely be a 3 inch GP100, and probably the WC model in 357 Magnum. The 6 shot GP100s are about the most bomb-proof revolver design ever, and with just a spring change you can get a pretty decent trigger in them, which is nice if it's going to get shot a lot. That being said, I think S&W medium frames like K and Ls are nicer, and you can get a better trigger in a S&W, but it requires more work. Basically: Decent trigger in a Ruger = very little work. Really amazing trigger in an S&W = much more work.

    I also think that S&W has done a way better job of solving the 7-shot medium frame revolver than Ruger. The 7-shot GP100s still have timing issues on some models, and I don't like deviating away from the original six shot design with those. So if "more than six" is your capacity goal, it's S&W all the way.

  8. #68
    Regarding trigger comparisons, one thing about the GP100 is it seems to have a painfully long lock time. That hammer fall is long. It’s just not ever going to equal a Smith but they can be shot very well.


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  9. #69
    Keep the suggestions and knowledge coming! Any links to good deals are also appreciated.

    What are the go to powders for hot .38?
    #RESIST

  10. #70
    Quote Originally Posted by Spartan1980 View Post
    Regarding trigger comparisons, one thing about the GP100 is it seems to have a painfully long lock time. That hammer fall is long. It’s just not ever going to equal a Smith but they can be shot very well.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    This is very annoying to me. I'm used to S&W K-Frames and I find the long lock time on the Rugers very distracting. It seems like the trigger pull is longer too. I like the idea of the GP100, but I don't think I could ever get used to one as long as I have K-Frames.

    I have the Jerry Miculek video on S&W trigger jobs and I've done some of my own. Just a light polish here and there with a spring kit and it's a very nice trigger.

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