The other option I forgot. You can get custom grips at Herretts. http://www.herrettstocks.com/
I'll wager you a PF dollar™ 😎
The lunatics are running the asylum
I was able to talk to the original owner of Badger grips a few times. That guy knew so much about grips it was amazing. I think all that knowledge is lost now in the current generation of grip makers even the ones that bought those grip companies. Its a shame really. Id like to think a guy with some time patience and a natural inclination could probably figure a lot out on his own but the days of people wanting that and willing to pay for it are probably to few to make it worth the endeavor.
I guess thats a long winded way to say I think a properly made pair of grips would go a long way.
That said I dont understand running that round through a snubby. It seems punishing for no real return. I thought they didnt perform unless you ran them through a 4” barrel.
Last edited by UNK; 11-24-2020 at 08:17 PM.
I'll wager you a PF dollar™ 😎
The lunatics are running the asylum
The 158 grain SWC practice load hits to the POA in all my .38/.357 revolvers at my usual practice distances of seven yards and closer and good enough to max my work off duty 36 round qual course which still has a twenty five yard stage.
My carry load is the 130 grain Ranger bonded HP in the 442 pictured and my 3” M64 gets our last revolver duty round, the 158 grain LHP.
The aforementioned estate buy also yielded a bunch of 125 grain .357 jacketed hollow point bullets for reloading.
Maybe a load using those might be easier on the hands.
I needed the extra reach to the trigger and ended up with the Hogue grips on my 642. The Taurus grips also worked for me but have no speedloader clearance.
Since my J-Frame gets pocket carried almost all the time, it gets the Taurus grips as well
For the longest time, it wore Pachmayr Compacs which I love. If I were carrying it primarily on the belt, I’d put the Pachmayrs back on.
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"If you think it's expensive to hire a professional to do the job, wait until you hire an amateur."
Disclaimer: I have previously worked in the firearms industry as an engineer. Thoughts and opinions expressed here are mine alone and not those of my prior employers.
I struggled with appropriate trigger reach on my 642. I really though that the cure was a boot grip with a covered backstrap. With the stock S&W stocks, my thumbs would interfere with the end of my trigger finger near full travel.
I belt-sanded the pinky groove off the bottom of a set of Uncle Mike’s Combat Grips. I tried Pachmayr Compacs. I tried Hogue grips. I did the Taurus grip mod.
After all that, the best and most consistent performance I got on the timer was with magnas and a BK Grips grip adapter (basically a polymer T-grip). I didn’t need a grip that was bigger, I just needed a grip that forced me higher on the backstrap while providing strong front-rear index points. Seems counterintuitive, but the short and narrow stocks somehow keep my thumbs out of the no-no zone. I get bit occasionally by the cylinder release, but my trigger finger can do what it do.
Not a fun set-up for shooting anything other than wadcutters or slow LRN loads.
Well, you may be a man. You may be a leprechaun. Only one thing’s for sure… you’re in the wrong basement.
Pretty much any grip can be cut flush with the bottom of the frame, unless it's a Hogue that uses a stirrup on the pin to hold it on.
I resemble that remark.
The logo happens to be exactly the same diameter as a .38SPL/.357 case head, so you can just cut it off one of your favorite rounds and glue it in.
I thought we had a thread a couple months ago about them shutting down.
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Not another dime.