We could isolate Russia totally from the world and maybe they could apply for membership after 2000 years.
One consideration might be that working your way back up might not be so easy, since flat primers are one of the most common signs of pressure.
I loaded some with the normal mid-level loads I typically use and it seemed fine. I wonder if pistol powder in cartridges like 9mm just burn so fast anyway you cannot ignite them any much more faster?
Flat primers may or may not indicate high pressure. Federal 100s will flatten at .38 Special pressure, while CCI 500s will have rounded edges at 9x19 pressure.
Don’t know if it’s possible to over-ignite powder in handgun cartridges, it makes sense to proceed with caution. I’m going with matching velocities.
@5pins- While I've loaded 10's of thousands of 9x21 (loaded to 9x19mm OAL for tanfoglio open guns) 183-185 PF, high pressure ammo back in the day with SRP, I would caution someone going the other direction using SPP instead of SRP- especially in something with a non-dropsafe floating firing pin (most 556 and 6.5 grendels). Chances of a detonation when when dropped, a slamfire, or pierced primer all increase with that combination.
Respectfully,
Last edited by Skinner Precision, LLC; 02-04-2021 at 05:57 PM.
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FWIW,
After reading this thread earlier and doing some research,
I decided to load up some 9mm 115 gr Xtremes with my usual charge of 4.5grs HP38 at 1.145-1.150" COAL with Federal 205 SR primers instead of Federal 100s which I typically use.
I tested 50 of those rounds in a bone stock Glock 48 and had no issues nor did the brass look concerning to me. I went ahead and loaded up another 550 of those (600 total). I am planning to use the remaining 400 for 38spl loads.
In the past I've loaded 115 and 147s with Remington 6 1/2 primers as well, my understanding that the consensus on those is that they've been considered to be so mild (not even suitable for 5.56 ammo) that they're treated more or less as defacto small pistol primers.
I am aware I am posting this as anecdotal without any data or numbers.
^^^^For the .38 Special loads, I'd use whatever pistol primers you have instead. Revolvers seem to be less tolerant of the harder primer cups.
With Wolf Magnum Small rifle primers, I found this to be true. With 4.5 grains of Unique I had a greater percentage fail to fire on the first try in my Speed Six. Some took 2 to 3 strikes to fire, one never did. Great trigger control test[emoji23]
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The only real difference between pistol and rifle primers is the hardness of the cup. I don't know why this is so hard for so many people to understand. It's no different than understanding the difference between standard and magnum primers,which isn't much. People insist on acting as if they're launching a rocket to mars.
When I've been forced to use rifle primers in handgun loads, I've never bothered to adjust the charge weight, I've simply loaded them up like usual and went shooting. We used to know these things before spreadsheets and apps and the like. Now, it's suddenly become akin to cracking the Rosetta stone.
I typically see the neccesity for second stikes at about a ten percent rate in revolvers, as well as my tuned up Beretta 92s. With 1911s and S&W 3rd Gen pistols ignition is one hundred percent. The latter has been with CCI #34 Rifle primers, which are probably the hardest domestic primers made.
I differ my loading procedures in only one way: large rifle primers are just a bit taller than their pistol counterparts. As such, I take a few seconds to clean the carbon out of the primer pocket before seating, in order to make sure I get a proper seating depth. Other than that, there's no need to get wrapped around the axle about it.
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