I think he meant the fbi specs aren't necessarily ideal for field use.Originally Posted by feudist
I think he meant the fbi specs aren't necessarily ideal for field use.
Just found a safariland sls 6280 for kframes. Nothing wrong with my threepersons or safariland comp holsters but I thought this would work well as a field holster as well.
I have the 3” WC GP100 in 10mm and like it a lot. But I worship at the altar of momentum and think Nirvana starts at .4”. My agency went from 4” .357 revolvers to 5” 10mm to .40S&W and the general consensus was that the 10mm was a death ray on road injured deer. We shot a lot of deer. The other calibers just didn’t seem to Bang!/flop them as well.
I find the 10mm GP100 to be controllable with SIG’s 180gr V Crown, my handloads using 180gr Gold Dots at 1,200fps and my cast 200gr WFN at 1,180fps. In my opinion the 10mm is more pleasant than a .357 in a similar sized gun.
It will kinetic-ly pull poorly sized/crimped bullets out of the case. Using to OEM or Ranch Product moonclips it won’t reliably fire .40S&W ammo. That’s not an engineering problem that’s trying to fire a gun with cartridges it isn’t chambered for. TK Products makes a special thicker moonclip to fire .40S&W but they’re $80/10. I don’t own a .40S&W pistol or any .40 ammo so I don’t worry about it. My revolver has been 100% reliable with loose/not mooncliped 10mm ammo and no you don’t need a dowel, screwdriver or stick to get them out of the chamber.
I had my GP at the range yesterday shooting 175gr cast bullets at 980fps and those were really quite pleasant.
I'll second @jetfire and the TK Custom clip recommendation. They are GTG.
I went with Heartco clips for my 686 but that was before TK was really fully "ramped up" on his clips. Mine are in .38 Short Colt which has the same problem as .40 only worse because there is no specification for an extractor groove at all on .38 brass. Grooves vary widely so I just ponied up and bought Starline brass and got those clips and cylinder cut for that thickness. TK did the cylinder and did a fine job in a short time.
Due to the grip angle its not as positive as SLS's for autos or as fast as ALS's but its not bad. I like it. I guess its really the closest thing to a modern combat holster for revolvers.
I have one for the GP100, and once I changed the shitass Safariland plate for a neutral drop plate it was pretty rad.
Ill look for that
Seems like the best gunsmiths either aren’t taking in GP100s for work or are cutting down their workload. Is sending a new GP100 off to a gunsmith the first thing I should do with a potential carry or serious use revolver, or should I just shoot it first? Are local experienced gunsmiths someone who could inspect and correct anything out of spec on a new GP100 or is it like a 1911 where, if it’s for anything serious, you want someone well renowned regarding that particular type of firearm to make sure it’s completely reliable?
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Shoot it first, if it doesn't work send it back to Ruger. Chances are if there is a manufacturing defect it will appear in the first few hundred rounds. Beyond that, all the new Ruger revolvers I have owned in the last 10 years have benefitted greatly a good initial cleaning, re-lubrication of all the working surfaces, and lots of dry firing. Also, the GP100 is not particularly complex, so installing a Wolff spring kit is a good option if you really need a reduced trigger pull.
A GP100 that is correctly manufactured does not require a trip to a gunsmith to become useful. You'd be better off firing a few thousand rounds through the gun and then deciding whether modification is needed.
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