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Thread: Tier 1, 1.5, or even Tier 2 tools thread

  1. #211
    I Demand Pie Lex Luthier's Avatar
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    Feb 2015
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    Northern Tier
    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post
    I have a nice set of Marples straight chisels, back when they were made in Sheffield. (Irwin Tool Co. is not my favorite company.) Also a nice little set of detail carving chisels.

    Any recommendation on rasps? Like the Aurious? What do you use?

    Got a link for the Mora?

    Do you know anything about stabilizing wood and Cactus Juice?
    I too use the old Sheffield-made Marples for most things. They were not finished well when bought but they do sharpen nicely. I have a 1/4"-1 1/4" set, as well as some narrower German made chisels. I can always use more.

    My rasps and files are almost all hand-me-downs from my dad. He got a lot of his stuff from his grand-dad. They are mainly 1910s-40s tools.
    Most of my stuff is chosen with a lutherie focus, so it has to be suitable for both hard and soft woods, since they are often joined together then shaped afterward.

    I use scrapers for removing tool marks a lot.

    The Mora knife I use is this one, but I cannot vouch for the vendor:

    https://www.canadianoutdoorequipment...%2431.65%20USD

    Mine still has a $9.99 price tag on the sheath from Hardwick's in Seattle.

    I have never used Cactus Juice; I would have no use for it in my field. I would caution anyone about using spalted or brittle woods for revolver stocks since recoil is a relentless thing.
    Well seasoned walnut should do just fine. Try a plain straight grained set to use first before going crazy with figure. You're going to make mistakes.
    "If I ever needed to hunt in a tuxedo, then this would be the rifle I'd take." - okie john

    "Not being able to govern events, I govern myself." - Michel De Montaigne

  2. #212
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Mar 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lex Luthier View Post
    I have never used Cactus Juice; I would have no use for it in my field. I would caution anyone about using spalted or brittle woods for revolver stocks since recoil is a relentless thing.
    Well seasoned walnut should do just fine. Try a plain straight grained set to use first before going crazy with figure. You're going to make mistakes.
    I do a lot more work with metal, since that's what we make cars and motorcycles out of these days, mostly.

    I hesitated to even ask you about the Cactus Juice, as I'm sure it would screw up the acoustic properties of wood. But you know a lot. I don't know what you don't know.

    I first read about it from that guy who is doing custom Ruger single action grip frames. He uses it for all the semi-finished CNC wood stocks he sells to go with the frames.

    I have a couple chunks of nice, clear, straight-grained walnut a coworker who does a lot of woodworking for fun gave me. Will start with that. Kinda do want something pretty eventually. I kinda like the idea of some nice tiger stripe maple on the stainless GP.
    .
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    Not another dime.

  3. #213
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northern Rockies
    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post
    @Lex Luthier @Maple Syrup Actual @Malamute

    I've been working my way toward making some GP100 stocks in walnut. I have made some modifications to the Hogue No Finger Groove sponge and it's pretty darn perfect, but rubber with layers of tape on it is neither deployable nor aesthetic (except maybe to a hockey goon). It occurred to me a few minutes ago that a spokeshave may be a tool I want to use for contouring. It inherently removes just a little material at a time and won't go too deep. It doesn't leave crossgrain scratches. It has zen. I assume I will be looking for something old on fleabay.

    The vintage Stanleys seem to be common. The No. 151 appears to have a two-screw setup for adjusting something, which might be useful once I figure out what it does.

    I will be doing compound curves in all directions, both concave and convex. Do I need a couple different styles?

    I don't know what I don't know.

    I will be reading this: https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/spokeshaves


    Any specific recommendations?

    If you mean a spokeshave for the rubber, Id sand, file, or grind it. If you mean for wood parts, Id also file, grind or sand it with various tools, hand and power. The grips Ive worked on, I shape with a medium coarse half round file/rasp, medium coarse round file, and fine chainsaw file, sanding when you get it shaped where you want. A spindle sander is probably good, I havent had one, but a drum sander in a drill press works.

    A bench belt and disc sander is on my want list for various things including stock and grip work. They also work on metal parts. An angle head grinder with sanding discs can remove a lot of material (wood or metal) but the potential to lose control and eat up anything or one that gets within its reach is great.
    “Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
    ― Theodore Roosevelt

  4. #214
    I've had these Knipex Cobra pliers in my Amazon cart for a while, they just dropped in price by $4, I think that's a sign .
    #RESIST

  5. #215
    Site Supporter
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    Feb 2011
    Location
    Midwest
    LL
    You are losing money if you do not buy those my man.
    I am not your attorney. I am not giving legal advice. Any and all opinions expressed are personal and my own and are not those of any employer-past, present or future.

  6. #216
    Quote Originally Posted by LittleLebowski View Post
    I've had these Knipex Cobra pliers in my Amazon cart for a while, they just dropped in price by $4, I think that's a sign .
    The 10" were only a dollar more. Thanks for the heads up.

  7. #217
    Quote Originally Posted by MickAK View Post
    The 10" were only a dollar more. Thanks for the heads up.
    Maybe I should cancel and order those?
    #RESIST

  8. #218
    Quote Originally Posted by LittleLebowski View Post
    Maybe I should cancel and order those?
    I like them sticking out of my back pocket enough to grab easily. The 10" can also get ahold of bigger sizes of pipe. The smaller set is better for electrical work. Depends on what you end up using them for the most.

  9. #219
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Midwest
    LL
    Get the 10s too. 1 is none and 2 is one...

    PS- or just order the 10s and return the others.
    I am not your attorney. I am not giving legal advice. Any and all opinions expressed are personal and my own and are not those of any employer-past, present or future.

  10. #220
    Quote Originally Posted by vcdgrips View Post
    LL
    Get the 10s too. 1 is none and 2 is one...

    PS- or just order the 10s and return the others.
    I'm ordering the 10" for the same price and keeping the 7"

    Here's the link to the 10" Knipex Cobra Pliers for $29.88.
    #RESIST

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