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Thread: Suggestions for M642 Action Job?

  1. #11
    I have 2 642s. #1 with lock, prolly bought it in 2004, didn't do anything to it, just shoot it, smooth enough as is.
    # 2 bought it a couple years ago, no lock, had extremely heavy main spring(for some reason S&W mainsprings can vary by 5 or 6 pounds these days) I bought a Wolff standard power spring and now it matches gun #1. No polishing on either gun. Very smooth, no misfires, no problem.

  2. #12
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    ATL
    I was speaking to S&W PC guy at NRA a couple years ago and asked exactly what the differences are to the variety of J frames like: “pro series, PC, Super Tuned, etc.” He commented the pro series simply have different springs. The PC and Super Tuned are teuly enhanced actions.

    I had a factory 437 combat that had a wonderful factory trigger and a PC 642 that was buttery smooth. Put an Apex in one and just was ho hum.

    Dave

  3. #13
    Site Supporter ST911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    Midwest, USA
    Quote Originally Posted by 4given View Post
    I need to tear down my newly aquired M642 and take care of the lock situation. While I have it apart I figured I might as well slick it up a bit. Any sugestions / advice? any spring kits that are worthwhile? Thanks in advance.
    The Apex kit is a viable aftermarket option. I've installed a lot of them, and they have been GTG in most guns. Test with Winchester SP and CCI 500 primers.

    Here is a bit of advice LSP972 posted in the thread on my broken 442. This is echoed in some other threads that discuss cleaning up Js.

    Quote Originally Posted by LSP972 View Post
    Weak trigger return is almost always caused by two things; a clipped rebound slide spring (usual culprit), and/or a dragging rebound slide.

    One of the first things to be done when cleaning up the trigger on an S&W revolver is to "break" the inside edge of the rebound slide. Basically, you break the sharp edge by rounding it on a semi-hard stone, to remove any possibility of the slide galling against the frame. As with anything involving metal removal, you gotta be very careful doing that.

    For years, S&W made a slightly weaker rebound slide spring intended for the single-action-only K-38. This spring was highly sought after by folks doing trigger jobs, because it was... 1) a factory part, 2) did not give the "soft return" issues that a clipped normal-strength usually did.

    If one is experiencing sticky trigger return, the first thing to do is replace the rebound slide spring with a factory example.

    I have installed perhaps a dozen of the Apex kits into various J frame Centennials, and only one needed some attention to the rebound slide itself to prevent sticky return. I was rather leery of this "kit" when it was announced, but now heartily reccommend it as an excellent drop-in modification to help the really execrable trigger on some J frames. It, along with The Plug to do away with that communist lock, are a pair of aftermarket goodies that are most definitely worth their cost.
    الدهون القاع الفتيات لك جعل العالم هزاز جولة الذهاب

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by ST911 View Post
    The Apex kit is a viable aftermarket option. I've installed a lot of them, and they have been GTG in most guns. Test with Winchester SP and CCI 500 primers.

    Here is a bit of advice LSP972 posted in the thread on my broken 442. This is echoed in some other threads that discuss cleaning up Js.

    Thanks for the advice everyone. I think I will go ahead and try the Apex kit and a good polish. I can always put the stock parts back in. I have quite a few CCI & Winchester primers to test for reliable ignition.

    Now to look for a good installation video ...

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by 4given View Post
    Now to look for a good installation video ...
    Apex has one specific to that kit. It's pretty straight forward.



    ETA: I recommend GOOD gunsmithing screwdrivers for the side plate screws. You can get by without the rebound slide tool, but its probably a lot easier with one.
    Last edited by WDR; 09-30-2020 at 09:40 AM.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by WDR View Post
    Apex has one specific to that kit. It's pretty straight forward.



    ETA: I recommend GOOD gunsmithing screwdrivers for the side plate screws. You can get by without the rebound slide tool, but its probably a lot easier with one.
    Thanks a bunch! I have a small set of Wheeler gunsmithing screw drivers. No rebound slide tool. I think I saw a way to do it with out one somewhere.

  7. #17
    What kind of grease / lube do you guys like for the internals? I have Tetra and Shooters Choice High Tech on hand.

  8. #18
    So far so good.

    I installed the Apex kit and it works well. Reduced the trigger pull substantially and reliably ignited hand loads with CCI primers. I'll run some more through it before I am completely confident.

    Thanks everyone for the advice!

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