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Thread: Help with Smith 686-1 issue

  1. #1

    Help with Smith 686-1 issue

    So today I was warming up for an upcoming match using my 686. Shooting .38 spl and after firing maybe 40 rounds I decided to do some quick target transitions and reloading practice. My loadout was 24 rounds to start. I went through all 24 without issue until it was time to push the cylinder back in and reholster. It would not go in, no way. My middle age eyes did allow a close up view but it appeared there was zero cylinder gap which was preventing me from closing.
    My first thought was it's hot here and 24 rounds in succession maybe heat expansion? I can't inspect it now, I'll have to wait later today or tomorrow.

  2. #2
    Revolvers Revolvers 1911s Stephanie B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 19852+ View Post
    So today I was warming up for an upcoming match using my 686. Shooting .38 spl and after firing maybe 40 rounds I decided to do some quick target transitions and reloading practice. My loadout was 24 rounds to start. I went through all 24 without issue until it was time to push the cylinder back in and reholster. It would not go in, no way. My middle age eyes did allow a close up view but it appeared there was zero cylinder gap which was preventing me from closing.
    My first thought was it's hot here and 24 rounds in succession maybe heat expansion? I can't inspect it now, I'll have to wait later today or tomorrow.
    I doubt that 24 rounds is going to heat it up enough for that. Do you have a feel for what was the cylinder gap before you started shooting?

    Did it stop as soon as the outer edge of the cylinder was in line with the barrel, or did it it close most of the way? (Pics would help)
    If we have to march off into the next world, let us walk there on the bodies of our enemies.

  3. #3
    Thanks, I wasn't going to force it but it stopped as soon as contact was made. I've used this revolver a lot in competition with never an issue so whatever the gap was it wasn't a problem. I checked the ejector rod and it seemed tight, the locking plunger at the rear also seemed good.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by 19852+ View Post
    So today I was warming up for an upcoming match using my 686. Shooting .38 spl and after firing maybe 40 rounds I decided to do some quick target transitions and reloading practice. My loadout was 24 rounds to start. I went through all 24 without issue until it was time to push the cylinder back in and reholster. It would not go in, no way. My middle age eyes did allow a close up view but it appeared there was zero cylinder gap which was preventing me from closing.
    My first thought was it's hot here and 24 rounds in succession maybe heat expansion? I can't inspect it now, I'll have to wait later today or tomorrow.
    What kind of ammo are you shooting? I've seen people do a bunch of fast shooting with cheapo cast bullets in their reloads that will foul up a gun in no time.

  5. #5
    Fouling under the extractor will cause that.
    Code Name: JET STREAM

  6. #6
    Site Supporter Totem Polar's Avatar
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    Not to be captain obvious, but did the ejector rod back out? That sounds like a classic example of a classic smith’ ejector rod unscrewing.

    ETA: missed your second post, sorry.

    Is the back of the cylinder hanging up on the little stud underneath the recoil shield at the bottom back edge of the frame window? Sometimes speedy application of the ejector rod when the gun is vertical will pop the cylinder over the tiny edge there on older S&Ws...

    The fix is to just push the cylinder forward off the stop...
    Last edited by Totem Polar; 09-17-2020 at 12:30 PM.

  7. #7
    Site Supporter Rex G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Watson View Post
    Fouling under the extractor will cause that.
    I will second this, as a likely cause.

    To the OP: Thoroughly brush the underside of the extractor, and where it makes contact with the cylinder. Do not trust “middle-aged eyes“ to tell you that nothing is there. (I stopped trusting my middle-aged eyes, years ago.)

    Let us know how this works.
    Retar’d LE. Kinesthetic dufus.

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  8. #8

    Help with Smith 686-1 issue

    As mentioned, crud under the ejector, rod backed out, or a combination of both. Guaranteed.

    I’ve shot over 40 rounds on a COF with lots of steel and a bad case of can’t hit shit on multiple occasions. It’s not heat.


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  9. #9
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 19852+ View Post
    So today I was warming up for an upcoming match using my 686. Shooting .38 spl and after firing maybe 40 rounds I decided to do some quick target transitions and reloading practice. My loadout was 24 rounds to start. I went through all 24 without issue until it was time to push the cylinder back in and reholster. It would not go in, no way. My middle age eyes did allow a close up view but it appeared there was zero cylinder gap which was preventing me from closing.
    My first thought was it's hot here and 24 rounds in succession maybe heat expansion? I can't inspect it now, I'll have to wait later today or tomorrow.
    As has been mentioned, and your description, sounds like crud or unburnt powder under the extractor star. It shot fine, then cylinder wouldnt go back in, hitting the rear of the barrel. Something happened from the last shot fired to the point you tried to close the cylinder, as in, ejected spent brass.

    Can you describe your ejection practice? Is the gun muzzle straight up or is the barrel more level/horizontal? Do you push the extractor rod slowly or sharply?
    “Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
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  10. #10
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    Extractor rod has left hand thread. Turn counter clockwise to tighten.

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