EDCL1-T and K2 Batteries

[JCS]

Also not a smart nerd, but I did find some recommendations for my EDCL-2T on the candlepower forums over a year ago when I got the light. I ordered several from batteryjunction, and this one worked the best for me. No promises on how it will work in the 1-cell light, but it might be worth a try.
Attachment 58862

It seems to allow a high draw, so the “low” mode wasn’t so dim, and the “high” mode was normally bright.
It’s the size of a 123 (as far as I can tell), but it’s labeled “IMR 16340”. I knew more about why I chose it back when I researched and bought them, but now just know that it works well for me. I carry a couple of charged spares when traveling.

As a point of reference I have those exact batteries and they do not work in my edcl-1t. I’ve tried everything from 550mah -700mah and protected and unprotected. None of them will work consistently. They all turn the light on in low but not high. A fenix brand battery would work occasionally but several times it would work in low only.

Not trying to discourage the OP from trying it but be aware that it may not work.

[vcdgrips]

NHS knows of what he speaks and has been a great resource in the Malkoff/Lego threads. Buy with confidence re the charger as it has been a great addition.

DB

[GyroF-16]

As a point of reference I have those exact batteries and they do not work in my edcl-1t. I’ve tried everything from 550mah -700mah and protected and unprotected. None of them will work consistently. They all turn the light on in low but not high. A fenix brand battery would work occasionally but several times it would work in low only.

Not trying to discourage the OP from trying it but be aware that it may not work.

@Elwin

Boy, I’m glad you chimed in!

[NH Shooter]

As a point of reference I have those exact batteries and they do not work in my edcl-1t. I’ve tried everything from 550mah -700mah and protected and unprotected. None of them will work consistently. They all turn the light on in low but not high. A fenix brand battery would work occasionally but several times it would work in low only.

Not trying to discourage the OP from trying it but be aware that it may not work.

Yes, the only way to know is to try. Could be over-voltage protection in that light as it's designed to run on a single CR123 battery, which is 3.2 volts new. The Li-ion cells we've been referencing are 4.2 volts fully charged.

Could always put a Malkoff Bodyguard head on it and it will run reliably on both. ;-)

[Elwin]

I think for now I I’m sticking with standard batteries. Thanks to JCS for confirming this is likely a recent circuitry feature. At least that’s my uneducated take.

But a Malkoff head is definitely something I’d consider down the line. As I mentioned in another thread I’m very happy with the E2HT-equipped Arisaka 600 I have for my AR. I could see throwing a Bodyguard or even an E1 or E1HT on this EDC light at some point, though I do really like the functionality of the SureFire head (press lightly for low, press hard for high, twist for constant-on low then high).

[Navin Johnson]

Another Idea is buy another one (am fond of mine) use one for business and one for other stuff. If you buy a bodyguard head (they are awesome) It will cost as much as another complete Surefire unit or pay for primaries for a long time.

[NH Shooter]

I think for now I I’m sticking with standard batteries. Thanks to JCS for confirming this is likely a recent circuitry feature. At least that’s my uneducated take.

But a Malkoff head is definitely something I’d consider down the line. As I mentioned in another thread I’m very happy with the E2HT-equipped Arisaka 600 I have for my AR. I could see throwing a Bodyguard or even an E1 or E1HT on this EDC light at some point, though I do really like the functionality of the SureFire head (press lightly for low, press hard for high, twist for constant-on low then high).

I think that is a good decision. I would run it on CR123s and use it as your EDC general purpose light, which it's really quite perfect for. Bulk pack CR123 batteries.

When I venture out in the dark I also carry a second "EDC" light in my other front pocket. It is intended strictly for retina searing (or reaching WAY out into the darkness), not something I'm going to read a menu by or look for the keys I dropped. It uses the Malkoff E2XTD direct-drive, high-current head which at 70,000 candela is a mighty step up from the E1/E2HT heads. Feel free to reach out to me if you want the build list;

[El Cid]

I think that is a good decision. I would run it on CR123s and use it as your EDC general purpose light, which it's really quite perfect for. Bulk pack CR123 batteries.

When I venture out in the dark I also carry a second "EDC" light in my other front pocket. It is intended strictly for retina searing (or reaching WAY out into the darkness), not something I'm going to read a menu by or look for the keys I dropped. It uses the Malkoff E2XTD direct-drive, high-current head which at 70,000 candela is a mighty step up from the E1/E2HT heads. Feel free to reach out to me if you want the build list;

This is basically what I do. My EDCL-2T is my fighting light. It can be used for admin tasks if I need but it’s reserved for work/defensive use. My Microstream is my admin light. Although in a pinch I could use it for more serious matters if it’s all I have.

I have the same philosophy for knives. My folding knife can be pressed into service in a fight but it’s primary use is for admin tasks like opening boxes. My fixed blade never comes out of the sheath for admin stuff. It’s for duty/defensive use only.

[10mmfanboy]

I use power2000 rechargeable in several lights, they are lifeP04 3.2 v .I use them in a malkoff mdc ha and a surefire edcl1 and all modes work fine in both, however expect much shorter run times, especially on high. I only get between 21 and 29 min of runtime on high on the malkoff vs 50 ish minutes with a primary cr123 on high. If the light isn't designed for lithium rechargeable (such as my malkoff light) it is imperative to use a protected cell, as the light does not feature low voltage protection and drops down into direct drive once the voltage gets too low. I also use energitech rcr 16340 in both lights and they run fine as well, although you will lose your low settings, but gain longer runtimes. If your light is going to be a dedicated fighting light I'd suggest just sticking with primary cells.

I use 16650 orbtronic batteries in anything 2x 123 configuration. I don't notice much difference in runtimes, however I can tell in my surefire e2t- mv tactician that brightness suffers a little on high. Instead of a claimed 800 lumens it's probably more like 600 ish lumens, still plenty bright and probably wouldn't notice a difference unless you try both back to back.

My suggestion as a flashaholic is to forget malkoffs and surefires because quite honestly I have been underwhelmed with all of them. 18650 and 18350 batteries are much more efficient for heavy users of flashlights. And if a light can't be configured to suit ones needs nowadays then it's about 10 years behind the curve. I use guppydrv3 firmware in all my lights I modify or build, and have never had an issue losing modes or what not, and I beat the dog tar piss out of them.

[El Cid]

I think that is a good decision. I would run it on CR123s and use it as your EDC general purpose light, which it's really quite perfect for. Bulk pack CR123 batteries.

When I venture out in the dark I also carry a second "EDC" light in my other front pocket. It is intended strictly for retina searing (or reaching WAY out into the darkness), not something I'm going to read a menu by or look for the keys I dropped. It uses the Malkoff E2XTD direct-drive, high-current head which at 70,000 candela is a mighty step up from the E1/E2HT heads. Feel free to reach out to me if you want the build list;

Do you by chance have any comparison photos? I struggle to understand candela. Lol! But their site says 650 lumens and my EDCL-2T has double that. Or is 650 for a one battery light?