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Thread: M&P Core

  1. #501
    Has anyone purchased the Law Enforcement Optic Ready versions that come with tritium night sights and three magazines? These appear to have metal adapter plates, the part number on the package is 3013860, Screw & Plate Assy Pkg, M&P M2.0 CORE L. I've only seen this once, so someone tell me I'm not crazy.

  2. #502
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    DFW
    LE Only but I never seen this one. ACRO cut from the factory

    https://www.smith-wesson.com/product...53&preselect=1

  3. #503
    Are the factory optic plates + McMaster carr screws still the recommended way to mount an optic to an OR M&p 2.0?

    The chpws plates for Rmr/Holosun looks to be OOS and has been for a while.

  4. #504
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Eastern NC, 500 feet and below
    Quote Originally Posted by thatguybryan View Post
    Are the factory optic plates + McMaster carr screws still the recommended way to mount an optic to an OR M&p 2.0?

    The chpws plates for Rmr/Holosun looks to be OOS and has been for a while.
    Dunno; but my plastic is still holding up! No evidence of loosening screws, etc.

  5. #505
    Member SoCalDep's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    The Secret City in Tennessee
    Quote Originally Posted by Brianjkeene View Post
    LE Only but I never seen this one. ACRO cut from the factory

    https://www.smith-wesson.com/product...53&preselect=1
    This is, in my opinion, the way of the future for pistol optics. Enclosed emitters with a common footprint so that the interface can be machined at the pistol factory will go far to increase pistol optic reliability. That ACRO optic-ready model was originally developed for Austin PD but there are a few in the wild elsewhere.


    Quote Originally Posted by thatguybryan View Post
    Are the factory optic plates + McMaster carr screws still the recommended way to mount an optic to an OR M&p 2.0?

    The chpws plates for Rmr/Holosun looks to be OOS and has been for a while.
    I like the metal factory plates the best for mounting RMRs, SROs, and Holosuns on M&Ps. The C&H plates generally work well, though there have been some serious issues with their plates for the 509T and ACRO on the M&P - They are working the problem and hopefully it will be solved soon. I haven't had an issue with the versions for the RMR/Holosun.

    For mounting an ACRO the best option is the above referenced Austin PD model. Since most likely won't be able to find one right now or for those who may want more options to mount other optics, I prefer the Aimpoint plate, though it has it's own issues. When we first started using those we were still using VC-3 and had several failures. After moving to the current mounting methods with degreasing of everything and use of Loctite-243 or 248, we've done a few with no issues at all and a lot of rounds.

    I use the McMaster alloy steel screws for the SRO/RMR but the .307(ish)" diameter head is too wide for the Holosuns, so for those I use the stainless steel with the .206(ish)" head diameter. Since the threaded holes in the slide aren't blind I use 6-32x1/2" for both screws even though the Holosun sets the screw a little deeper in the slide. It doesn't matter because there is no potential interaction with the extractor assembly or internals like there is on some of the other pistols.

    With all that said, here's my "theory" on the plastic plates which is backed up with a fair bit of experience mounting, shooting, and watching people shoot them.

    The plastic plates aren't horrible and will likely work fine as long as everything stays tight. When we tested the Trijicon SRO we put a bit over 10,000 rounds through an M&P with a plastic plate. In fact, we did that specifically to test the plate as well as the optic. It held just fine through 8,015 rounds. After that we fired 1,985 rounds in around 20 minutes, pouring water from a hose on the slide, barrel, and through the ejection port when the gun became too hot to hold.

    At some point during that ill fated shooting session, one screw became loose, which allowed the optic to start rocking. This "peened" the plastic boss on the plate which allowed more movement. When we realized the optic was loose during the final accuracy test, I brought the pistol to our armory and attempted to remove the optic. The right side screw, which was the one that came loose, sheared as soon as I started to turn it. The other one was still tight.

    My guess is that firing that many rounds that fast caused the slide to heat up enough that the loctite threadlocker was compromised and the rapid heating/cooling may have even created some dimensional variations that allowed the screw to come loose. Short version - The failure was during something that is simply torture and not realistic.

    Even so, the plastic plate fared worse than a metal one would have and contributed to the ability of the optic to move and ultimately shear the screw. As long as the optic stays tightly attached and the screws don't come loose then the plastic works, but if they do come loose, and we've had it happen two or three times other than our SRO test, the plate is usually toast as the bosses are ruined.

    Now for my "theory": Though the plastic plates seem to work fine generally, I don't like the idea of a plastic plate. The plastic can move and has a certain amount of elasticity compared to metal. I want a tight fit with no ability for the optic to shift in the pocket. If the plastic allows any movement, the screws could come loose and we know what happens then. A couple years ago a certain plate manufacturer was offering plastic plates. When I inquired as to what he thought of using plastic he said he liked that it provided a "cushion" for the optic against the reciprocating g-forces of the slide. That cushioning is exactly what concerns me.

  6. #506
    Thanks again SoCalDep for the wealth of knowledge. To anyone interested, the chpws plates are back in stock for Holosun/RMR for the M&p core. Just picked one up and looking to put this gun through its paces!

  7. #507
    Site Supporter MD7305's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NE Tennessee
    Any of you guys wanting a factory Acro‐ready gun there have recently been some appearing on GB. Search "13353" which is that gun's SKU. They've been available for a few weeks now. (I'm not affiliated with the seller).

    In somewhat CORE related news:
    I went through my M&P armorer recert a few weeks ago. According to the rep, Acro guns are made in batches for large agency orders and the leftovers get sold off elsewhere. So if you find one it'd probably be smart to jump on it. It would seem most of the LE guns are going flat trigger with front serrations and optics ready, with either tall or standard night sights. My agency is set to get new guns in 2023/24 so that was music to my ears.

    The rep had pretty much any variation of M&P available to handle, including the new metal frame. I like it, it wasn't as slippery as I expected but it didn't feel much heavier than a normal M&P. The most interesting thing about it was the Holosun SCS directly mounted to it that low‐witnessed with standard height sights. To me that's a huge plus when considering an agency-wide switch to RDS. He also had a couple guns with Timney's new M&P trigger and I really liked how smooth it was. I actually preferred the Timney trigger over the Apex or Overwatch Precision flat triggers in all respects but I wish the Timney was available in more than a competition model as the 3lb-ish pull was very light!

    I recently purchased a LE full size, optic ready gun with a flat trigger, NS, and front serrations (SKU 13614). Good news is it comes with metal optic plates, bad news is the trigger is terrible. I'm pretty sure the striker block plunger is causing the issue because depressing it feels equally rough. I'm probably going to swap a different one in and see what happens.

  8. #508
    Quote Originally Posted by MD7305 View Post
    Any of you guys wanting a factory Acro‐ready gun there have recently been some appearing on GB. Search "13353" which is that gun's SKU. They've been available for a few weeks now. (I'm not affiliated with the seller).

    In somewhat CORE related news:
    I went through my M&P armorer recert a few weeks ago. According to the rep, Acro guns are made in batches for large agency orders and the leftovers get sold off elsewhere. So if you find one it'd probably be smart to jump on it. It would seem most of the LE guns are going flat trigger with front serrations and optics ready, with either tall or standard night sights. My agency is set to get new guns in 2023/24 so that was music to my ears.

    The rep had pretty much any variation of M&P available to handle, including the new metal frame. I like it, it wasn't as slippery as I expected but it didn't feel much heavier than a normal M&P. The most interesting thing about it was the Holosun SCS directly mounted to it that low‐witnessed with standard height sights. To me that's a huge plus when considering an agency-wide switch to RDS. He also had a couple guns with Timney's new M&P trigger and I really liked how smooth it was. I actually preferred the Timney trigger over the Apex or Overwatch Precision flat triggers in all respects but I wish the Timney was available in more than a competition model as the 3lb-ish pull was very light!

    I recently purchased a LE full size, optic ready gun with a flat trigger, NS, and front serrations (SKU 13614). Good news is it comes with metal optic plates, bad news is the trigger is terrible. I'm pretty sure the striker block plunger is causing the issue because depressing it feels equally rough. I'm probably going to swap a different one in and see what happens.
    With a direct mount Acro, are the crazy high OEM BUIS necessary?
    Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.

  9. #509
    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalDep View Post
    My guess is that firing that many rounds that fast caused the slide to heat up enough that the loctite threadlocker was compromised and the rapid heating/cooling may have even created some dimensional variations that allowed the screw to come loose.
    I wonder if it got that hot it could also start making the plastic plate soft.

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