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Thread: Vibra-Tite

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Hambo View Post
    I use it for stuff with mild vibration, like my reloaders, not parts that take a beating. I didn't think it was supposed to be a Loctite replacement.
    This is exactly right. VT is intended for applications that vibrate rather the getting “hammered”. It’s also intended for removal and reinstalling a limited number of times before reapplying. This sort of implies to me that I would be seeing the condition of the fastener on a somewhat regular basis.

    Pro tip: don’t leave a big glob on the screw. Wipe it down to the major diameter (outside) of the thread so it is only filling the thread at most, a little less is better. It’s easy to use too much on small screws and when you do, the material has enough strength that it will just stop at the start of the hole and the screw will rotate inside of said glob. When this happens you end up with a washer made up of VT.


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  2. #12
    Member GearFondler's Avatar
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    ^^^ This.

    For small screws I add a drop then wipe it around the threads with my finger so that it only fills the channels about half full, let it dry, then install.

    Name a thread locker, any type, and you'll find people who swear by it and people who swear at it.

  3. #13
    Gucci gear, Walmart skill Darth_Uno's Avatar
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    I like vibratite for low stress applications (scope rings, trigger guards, etc) or something I might want to take off later.

    I use purple loctite for most everything else. RMR’s, front sights, etc. Never had a problem. I have had problems with blue gripping a little *too* well on thin screws.


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  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Darth_Uno View Post
    I have had problems with blue gripping a little *too* well on thin screws.
    Can't remember who suggested this to me; seems it was John Harrison relative to 1911 grip screw bushings. He said while heat worked on Loctite, that it was better (less potential for damage outside of the target area) if the heat was focused on the offending screw/bushing. He said try one of the pencil micro-flame butane-fueled torches, focused on only the stuck screw. Alternatively, but less effective, was to use a soldering gun. Not the low powered soldering irons, but the more potent soldering guns. Hold the tip right on the stuck bushing/screw, and it should loosen up. Have tried both. The micro-torch is quicker ("better"?), but the less potent soldering gun offers a possibly less impacting alternative to the torch.

    Both both work, at least on Loctite-held screws/bushings.

  5. #15
    Member Xhado's Avatar
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    Mar 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    What I find odd, is when I use blue loctite, and remove a screw I can see the residue of the loctite evenly distributed. With the Vibra Tite, it looks like rather than being evenly distributed, the Vibra Tite migrates up towards the head of the screw, leaving the lower threads appear untreated, and the material is in small chunks that are loose.
    This is not the experience I've had with Vibra-Tite.

    Are you using the two sheets of paper application method to reduce buildup?

    Are you waiting 30 minutes for it to cure before installing


  6. #16
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyrodr View Post
    Can't remember who suggested this to me; seems it was John Harrison relative to 1911 grip screw bushings. He said while heat worked on Loctite, that it was better (less potential for damage outside of the target area) if the heat was focused on the offending screw/bushing. He said try one of the pencil micro-flame butane-fueled torches, focused on only the stuck screw. Alternatively, but less effective, was to use a soldering gun. Not the low powered soldering irons, but the more potent soldering guns. Hold the tip right on the stuck bushing/screw, and it should loosen up. Have tried both. The micro-torch is quicker ("better"?), but the less potent soldering gun offers a possibly less impacting alternative to the torch.

    Both both work, at least on Loctite-held screws/bushings.
    There was a guy on ADVRider who was a field rep for Henckel. He said heat it until you see a wisp of smoke, then it's as loose as it's going to get. I believe he endorsed the soldering iron method, using the giant plumber-type iron, or at least a solid gun. Would hate to char some nice stocks...
    .
    -----------------------------------------
    Not another dime.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post
    He said heat it until you see a wisp of smoke, then it's as loose as it's going to get. Would hate to char some nice stocks...
    That awakened a sleeping neuron. It was John Harrison, and he did mention to "heat it just until you see a wisp of smoke". He suggested the soldering gun, and if I had to go hotter, not to go beyond the butane micro torch.

    On optics, I've not gone beyond the soldering gun, and only needed that on one screw. Too much mini electronics around for me to try anything more.

  8. #18
    Site Supporter
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    So should I use the Vibratite that came with my C&H V4 Defender plate or get some Locktite?
    --Jason--

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Xhado View Post
    This is not the experience I've had with Vibra-Tite.

    Are you using the two sheets of paper application method to reduce buildup?

    Are you waiting 30 minutes for it to cure before installing

    Two sheets of paper? Applying the thread locker shouldn’t be more complicated than stripping a Glock. I guess I am just a blue loctite kind of guy.
    Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.

  10. #20
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    Two sheets of paper? Applying the thread locker shouldn’t be more complicated than stripping a Glock. I guess I am just a blue loctite kind of guy.
    Following the prep and cure instructions is crucial with thread lockers. Loctite products even differ in application methods and cure as different products are used.

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