I've used this method for many years with good success. On sensitive items I'll be patient and use a soldering iron(can be challenging if you're threaded into an aluminum piece) or a torch if it's safe. His assessment is spot on: whisp of smoke, then remove fastener. Depending on the size I'll use an impact driver for removal.Originally Posted by OlongJohnson
My 507v2 on my G45 using a C&H plate is holding up just fine with Vibratite after following the recommended application instructions. I will admit to not having put many rounds through it quite yet though.
“Conspiracy theories are just spoiler alerts these days.”
Well, I'd offer that when I have removed ANY of my red dots put on with blue Loctite, they've all been tight and required some solid (but not excessive) pressure to break the screw threads loose. I've only done one with VibraTite, and vaguely recall that I didn't allow the material to dry sufficiently before assembly; not absolutely sure. Regardless, those screws did loosen. To be fair, I'll take the blame on that one.
Still, with zero failures, I'm sticking to Loctite. Conversely, one wouldn't think the mfgrs would include a product that didn't work.
Either way, I'd clean screws and holes with acetone, lacquer thinner - - - some quick-evaporating solvent - - - and then hit everything with a blast of air to be sure all are fully dry before applying "sticky of choice" and assembling.
(Just don't use red Loctite, or you'll either be using a heat source to get the screws loose, or likely stripping/breaking screws.)
So while I'm waiting for my plate to get here I decided to try a highly unscientific experiment.
I took two spare Glock plate screws, and one of the Glock MOS plates I wasn't using. I chased the screws and cleaned the threads up. I then installed both on the plate, one using Vibratite VC-3 (V) and one using some Versachem "245" blue (medium strenth, similar to Loctite 243, so call that one (L)). I've used this tube of 245 the past four years on Glock front sight posts with no issues.
The (V) screw I prepped according to the directions. One drop, then allowed to dry 30 minutes. Then installed.
The (L) screw i put the blue threadlocker on just like I normally do on a sight post (just a bit) and installed it wet. It's curing now. I torqued both to 10 inch lbs using my Wheeler FAT gauge.
Couple observations. The (V) screw head seemed to go in fine, but there is a large amount of the polymer VC-3 residue that pooled up around the screw head. Also, I reread the instructions for my Wheeler and was surprised how tight 10 inch lbs actually is, when set to the red mark and torqued. Wheeler recommends a click, then two clicks past, to "set" the torque value. These tiny screws are pretty tight.
My tool arrived with a Calibration sheet indicating a set 10 inch lbs was an actual value of 9.6 in lbs, at least according to their metrology source at the Wheeler factory (probably somewhere in China, I reckon.) Close enough.
Anyway, I'll undo these tomorrow to see how they compare in loosening up, and post back anything interesting.
The only time I used vibra - tite my RMR came loose. (Milled slide)
Blue locktite has been 100%
If the Vibratite is stripped out when installed it usually indicates that too much was used... Only half the thread depth, or less, should be filled. That's a hard thing to do on tiny ass screws with shallow threads. I usually wipe my finger around the threads to remove the excess.
I'm (vaguely) recalling that the shelf life of blue Loctite is two years unopened, one year opened. Equally vaguely, that max. cure time is 24 hours, with shorter times at higher temperatures.
Looking forward to your results!!
Gotcha. Makes sense.
Good point about the Versachem stuff. I should probably pitch it.
Anything I conclude is going to be pretty subjective as I don’t want to use my torque wrench to unloosen them. To be honest, I was more curious to ‘practice’ a bit using the VC-3 since it’s what I plan to use when following C&H’s install procedure, which I found here:
http://chpws.com/wp-content/uploads/...2_MAY_2020.pdf
I put Vibra Tite on my Nelson Conversion's guide rod threads because it was claimed to be cycled five times before needing another dose.
Nelson Conversion is a fine shooter on my least used 1911's frame but it is a jarring realization that something that LOOKS like a 1911 is a lot more trouble to take down.
Code Name: JET STREAM
I took the plate this morning and twisted on both screws using a Torx T-10 T-handle driver I use frequently. I tried to put equal tension in the handle, and held the plate in my hand in my normal 3M Comfort Grip gloves I use working on cars and stuff.So while I'm waiting for my plate to get here I decided to try a highly unscientific experiment.
I took two spare Glock plate screws, and one of the Glock MOS plates I wasn't using. I chased the screws and cleaned the threads up. I then installed both on the plate, one using Vibratite VC-3 (V) and one using some Versachem "245" blue (medium strenth, similar to Loctite 243, so call that one (L)). I've used this tube of 245 the past four years on Glock front sight posts with no issues.
The (V) screw I prepped according to the directions. One drop, then allowed to dry 30 minutes. Then installed.
The (L) screw i put the blue threadlocker on just like I normally do on a sight post (just a bit) and installed it wet. It's curing now. I torqued both to 10 inch lbs using my Wheeler FAT gauge.
Couple observations. The (V) screw head seemed to go in fine, but there is a large amount of the polymer VC-3 residue that pooled up around the screw head. Also, I reread the instructions for my Wheeler and was surprised how tight 10 inch lbs actually is, when set to the red mark and torqued. Wheeler recommends a click, then two clicks past, to "set" the torque value. These tiny screws are pretty tight.
My tool arrived with a Calibration sheet indicating a set 10 inch lbs was an actual value of 9.6 in lbs, at least according to their metrology source at the Wheeler factory (probably somewhere in China, I reckon.) Close enough.
Anyway, I'll undo these tomorrow to see how they compare in loosening up, and post back anything interesting.
...annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnddd the results are...
There was no perceptible difference in the torque required to "unstick" the screws.
I find it interesting, that the "polymer" Vibra-tite strength was just about the same "feel" in removing as the Versachem product. Can't compare directly, but the feel is pretty much like when I remove a Glock front sight post screw for sight swaps, that kind of tightness (I've never torqued a Glock front sight screw, to be honest though.)
More interesting perhaps, as I continued to unwind the screws, the V screw was still uniformly hard to turn throughout the revolutions of the tool. In contrast, the L screw was much much easier to turn/remove, once I'd gotten past the release point. The conclusion I came to was the V application would tend to hold the screw in place, even if it moved slightly, than the L application.
As say, this test was unscientific, all measurements were done to Harbor Freight standards, and the usual warnings apply: don't try this at home, look before crossing, improper use may cause,serious injury, death, or worse; call your doctor if problem persists longer than four hours.
Last edited by RJ; 02-07-2021 at 09:42 AM.
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