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Thread: Vibra-Tite

  1. #21
    From Vibra-Tite web site (https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadloc...RoC2zMQAvD_BwE)

    Shake well before each use. Apply VC-3 a length of 1 to 1 ½ times the fastener diameter, filling threads 30-50%. Although material will be dry to touch within minutes, allow VC-3 to dry for at least 30 minutes (the longer the better), depending on part size. Fasteners are then ready for assembly or to be stored for later use.

    #################

    From Loctite blue 242 web site: (https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/p...erblue242.html)

    Application:

    For Thru Holes:
    Apply several drops of the product onto the bolt at the nut engagement area.

    For Blind Holes:
    Apply several drops of the product down the internal threads to the bottom of the hole.

    For Sealing Applications:
    Apply a 360° bead of product to the leading threads of the male fitting, leaving the first thread free. Force the material into the threads to thoroughly fill the voids. For bigger threads and voids, adjust product amount accordingly and apply a 360° bead of product on the female threads also.

    Assemble parts and tighten as required. Sets in approximately 10 minutes and fully cures in 24 hours.

    ####################

    Seems the Loctite can be applied with less care (precision?). And some differences in the working temperature, etc.

    Choose your poison . . . perhaps there's a better word choice here.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    What I find odd, is when I use blue loctite, and remove a screw I can see the residue of the loctite evenly distributed. With the Vibra Tite, it looks like rather than being evenly distributed, the Vibra Tite migrates up towards the head of the screw, leaving the lower threads appear untreated, and the material is in small chunks that are loose.
    I noticed something similar but I think the reason was that the vibratite is a little thicker, maybe it's getting pushed up as I screw the screws in?

  3. #23
    My former company distributed Vibratite VC3 for a while, one of our product managers was impressed with its function for keeping arrow points from rattling loose.

    Personally, I found it to not work all that well, and shelf life was a bit variable.

    It has historically (according to the Vibratite company) been used on the M1A1 Abrams cannon trunnion bolts... which, last time I checked, were NOT an M4 or 4-40.

    I like the solid stick blue Loctite 248 much better. No drips, immediate assembly, no creep, no way to work into the pistol action, no waste and you can put it exactly where you want it.

  4. #24
    Member
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    Oct 2014
    Location
    Savannah, GA
    I also shoot a decent amount of archery in addition to firearms. I recently got a bow where the mod screws to change draw length would loosen over the course of a 50-100 arrow shooting session. I put vibratite VC3 on them but even after a few hundred arrows, I would put an allen wrench on them and apply a little tightening pressure and visibly be able to tighten the screw down a 1/4 to 1/2 turn from it loosening. I switched to blue loctite at the manufacturer's recommendation and have shot about 1000-1500 arrows since and the screws have not moved.

    Caveat: I have been using VC3 on CH precision V4 plates with SRO's and have not had any loosen on me.

  5. #25
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    Aug 2015
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    NE Ohio

    Vibra-Tite

    I noticed that My G34 with CHP v4 plate is loose today both the plate and the optic. Going to reassemble with locktite


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  6. #26
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    Aug 2015
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    NE Ohio

    Vibra-Tite

    After taking it apart to add locktite. I noticed that the vibra-tite was pooled at the bottom of the posts that the optic is attached to. When I put everything back together, I placed the pistol sitting slide down, thinking that gravity will help keep it in place until it sets.


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    Last edited by Whirlwind06; 09-07-2020 at 09:10 PM.

  7. #27
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Mar 2015
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    "carbine-infested rural (and suburban) areas"
    If I recall the instructions for Vibra-Tite, they say to let it dry on the screws prior to assembly. So it shouldn't be running or pooling anywhere if you're doing it right.

    In your application, Loctite may still be better. Be sure to solvent clean all the Vibra-Tite off the parts first.
    .
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    Not another dime.

  8. #28
    For those who might be wondering, MEK is a good solvent for VC3.

  9. #29
    Member orionz06's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
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    Pittsburgh, PA
    Quote Originally Posted by flyrodr View Post
    Can't remember who suggested this to me; seems it was John Harrison relative to 1911 grip screw bushings. He said while heat worked on Loctite, that it was better (less potential for damage outside of the target area) if the heat was focused on the offending screw/bushing. He said try one of the pencil micro-flame butane-fueled torches, focused on only the stuck screw. Alternatively, but less effective, was to use a soldering gun. Not the low powered soldering irons, but the more potent soldering guns. Hold the tip right on the stuck bushing/screw, and it should loosen up. Have tried both. The micro-torch is quicker ("better"?), but the less potent soldering gun offers a possibly less impacting alternative to the torch.

    Both both work, at least on Loctite-held screws/bushings.
    People shouldn't be so afraid of a little heat, it's rather easy to get things hot without tossing a gun in a fire.


    Get a good soldering iron like a Hakko and you'll be set.
    Think for yourself. Question authority.

  10. #30
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
    Any updates to this question, six months later? I'm about to put on a 507c v2 on Glock 34 MOS using a C&H Defender V4 plate. C&H says Vibratite VC-3, Holosun says medium/blue.

    What do you use for optics screws these days, and why?

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