Is there any special fitting required for the trigger bow in a 1911, beyond that it slides freely in the raceway?
I'm contemplating putting short triggers in my two 1911s, and want to make sure that I'm not going to be jacking with critical engagement surfaces or anything.
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-Maple Syrup Actual
For the most part no. A match trigger normal will be a little oversized on the top and bottom of the trigger itself. As long as the trigger drops in and out freely then it shroud not be a problem.
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I would insure the grip safety is blocking the trigger bow when the grip safety is not depressed. That should be a function of the grip safety, but the leg interfaces with the trigger bow. I also do not like any slop with the bow in the frame raceways as the trigger either is loose or can bind if not pressed straight back. In some frames, the races need stoning. Brownells has a tool but is out of stock. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...e-prod798.aspx
Brownells offers a tool that helps with the shape of the bow. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...e-prod788.aspx
Thank you, gentlemen. Duly noted.
"It's surprising how often you start wondering just how featureless a desert some people's inner landscapes must be."
-Maple Syrup Actual
I would add to the above that if the trigger has an over travel stop you'll need to set that as well.
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I put a short trigger in every 1911 I buy, usually before i take them to the range. The shoe should require fitting, the bow should be undamaged and free of burrs. If there is an overtravel stop in the trigger it should be removed and discarded.
Thank you, JAD. Duly noted.
"It's surprising how often you start wondering just how featureless a desert some people's inner landscapes must be."
-Maple Syrup Actual
On the overtravel adjustment, my course of action depends on how the stop is configured. The original ones used a screw that if not secured with threadlocker could back out for more travel or, much worse, be driven deeper. The latter could reduce travel enough to not allow the sear to release the hammer. I ran into the latter issue on my SA Pro. With a screw, I agree it is best to remove it.Originally Posted by JAD
John Harrison solved this issue with a pin on the back of the shoe of his triggers. By filing the pin during the fitting process, the overtravel is set once and cannot change.
https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/hd-1...e-1911-trigger
^^^
It's like you're psychic or something! I was just comparing those with offerings from C&S and Nighthawk. And if one is going to chuck the overtravel screw, why have a threaded hole in the trigger face to collect gunk? I like that Harrison deems it a service trigger v. a match trigger, too.
"It's surprising how often you start wondering just how featureless a desert some people's inner landscapes must be."
-Maple Syrup Actual
I’ve heard about but not seen the Harrison style trigger. Makes good sense, though if I was fitting one I think I’d be biased toward more overtravel than exactly none. Overtravel is compliance.
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