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Thread: 10mm Revolver Loads

  1. #1
    Member Zeke38's Avatar
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    10mm Revolver Loads

    I've recently purchased a Ruger 10mm GP100, starting to seriously reload for it. So what to do about crimping? Taper crimp die, seems to be the only option out there. I do not own a 10mm Auto. What do you guys use and how does it differ from jacketed or lead or powder coated?

    Appreciate your imput on this, Thank you!


    Zeke

  2. #2
    No experience with the Ruger 10mm but quite a bit with S&W 625. My 625s all headspaced on the case mouth and would fire just fine without a moon clip. I'm assuming the Ruger is the same so take that for what it's worth. Being that the 10mm is rimless you are going to have to use clips anyway, so in the Ruger it may not even matter. It just depends on how they set it up. S&Ws are setup to take a moon clip thickness the same as the counterbore depth in the cylinder so they can headspace on that (the clip is dead flush with the back of the cylinder). All of this is related to what crimps you can do. If the Ruger headspaces on the mouth like in an auto and uses a thinner clip you won't be able to roll crimp at all without light primer strikes. If they are the same a S&W you'll be able to do either.

    For coated bullets you are probably limited to taper crimping. If you can find a bullet with a cannelure to roll crimp into I highly suggest you do that. In my 625, no matter what bullet or loading I will get bullet pull with a taper crimp. Doesn't matter whether lead, coated, plated or jacketed I can fire 4 or 5 and pull the last ones and they are noticeably longer than when they went into the cylinder. No taper crimp is ever going to stop the inertia in that big heavy .45 slug. A nice heavy roll crimp over a shoulder or into a cannelure stops it cold.

    Other than that you need to run lead, coated or plated bullets at least .001" over jacketed diameter and .002" if your chamber throats will allow (doubtful). Check your throat diameters, ideally you want them .0005" larger than the groove dia. of your barrel and size your bullets to fit the throats. Having them reamed is a fairly common requirement days to shoot lead well. This is less critical if you run a jacketed bullet as they are just a lot harder and grab the rifling better and the guns are setup for them.

    Make sure you flare fairly generously to keep from scraping the coating when bullet seating.

  3. #3
    Member Zeke38's Avatar
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    Spartan, very informative post. Lots of good advice as the Ruger operates like the S&W. Sounds like I had best get used to firing lots of jacketed flat points in the 180 grain field. What I really enjoy about the 10mm revolver is the `1250fps 180 but it recoils less than it's 357 counterpart and without the terrific muzzle blast that 357s are famous for and a bullet diameter of .401. All this on a GP100 frame.

    You can shoot the 10mm without moonclips but you must pick the casings out one by one. First new caliber for me since the 1980s.

  4. #4
    Yes reloading without moons is not fun at all.

    10mm is a great revo cartridge. It can be almost fully into the big bore "magnum range" without all the blast and recoil of the big boomers, but with full house loads it's basically a honest .41 magnum for all intents and purposes. I shot a buddy's 610 with major power factor USPSA loads when I was competing in revo and didn't believe the loads were major until I saw the chrono. They felt like .38s in a K frame. Granted major PF isn't near a full house magnum load, but it's still got some power to them. I was looking for a 610 when I found a 5" 625 in pristine condition and just had to grab it. You can also use .40SW brass with light bullets for plinking and basically have less than .38 HBWC target load recoil. Steel Challenge is a hoot with those. ETA: And you can still make USPSA major PF easily in .40SW brass which is plentiful. Lots to like in a 10mm revolver.
    Last edited by Spartan1980; 08-04-2020 at 10:14 PM.

  5. #5
    The Nostomaniac 03RN's Avatar
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    Im skeptical of 10mm being close to .41 magnum levels.

    The warmest loads seem to be on par with .357 mag.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by 03RN View Post
    Im skeptical of 10mm being close to .41 magnum levels.

    The warmest loads seem to be on par with .357 mag.
    I have drawn exactly that same conclusion.
    I was into 10mm Auto before it sold out and went mainstream, but these days I'm here for the revolver and epidemiology information.

  7. #7
    Member Zeke38's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies, I have loved the 357 since 1968, but I'm no longer a fan of the muzzle blast and ear splitting report. 10mm 180 at 1250-1300 on a 357 kinda winds my clock, for a field gun. CCW work it's either a 2 or 3 inch Kimber K6 with Remington Golden Sabers 125 grain at 1100+ from the Kimbers and they handle them well.


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03RN View Post
    Im skeptical of 10mm being close to .41 magnum levels.

    The warmest loads seem to be on par with .357 mag.
    10mm is not on .41 Mag level, unless you count the old 210gr lswc LE load for the .41.
    It will throw a 180 - 220gr bullet faster than a .357 with more girth and less earsplittenloudenboomin!
    My department went from 4” 686 revolvers loaded with 145gr Silvertips to 5” 1006 with a local commercial loaders ammo using 180gr XTPs at 1,200fps and the effect on road injured deer was remarkable. We eventually ended up using Silvertips in the 10mm too and the deer couldn’t Tell the difference.

    I’m a big fan of the 10mm but it’s not a threat to the big bore magnums.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Zeke38 View Post
    I've recently purchased a Ruger 10mm GP100, starting to seriously reload for it. So what to do about crimping? Taper crimp die, seems to be the only option out there. I do not own a 10mm Auto. What do you guys use and how does it differ from jacketed or lead or powder coated?

    Appreciate your imput on this, Thank you!


    Zeke
    Lots of information here:

    http://10mm-firearms.com/index.php

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by 03RN View Post
    Im skeptical of 10mm being close to .41 magnum levels.

    The warmest loads seem to be on par with .357 mag.
    Quote Originally Posted by Lester Polfus View Post
    I have drawn exactly that same conclusion.
    I stand corrected. My bad. I was referring to the old original Norma loading in 10mm and going from recollection of the Cor-Bon 170 JHP in .41 Mag. I forgot it was downloaded to encourage LE use. They are very close to each other.

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