Sweat/Rust Solutions in a 92?

[Sal Picante]

Like @Cory I live in FL.

I EDC the 92 in a Keepers AIWB. I work from home, so I EDC it it, realistically, when I'm running errands and generally out and about.

NP3 is probably the best bet for those parts. MidwestGunWorks might still has some hammer pivots in NP3...

I think it really depends on the persons sweat type... I don't notice much rust on my guns... I do have a bit of grease covering the head of the hammer pivot?

EDIT: So I pulled out the pistol and checked it over - I use a lot of grease on my slide rails, under the locking block, the pivot pins, etc... I even greased the mainspring pin.
I usually add a touch of oil to the locking block and the hammer-pin interface when I carry. I think this coating keeps it form rusting?

I'm using Gunfighter Gun grease... Got it from Mickey at Carrytrainer. In the past I used to use CudeLube which is a very heavyweight oil that stays put, but the white grease stays put better for an EDC gun...

[paherne]

Clean the parts and then spray them with Boeshield T-9 and let them dry. It stopped our shotguns from rusting in trunks.

[RAM Engineer]

Did anyone (LangdonTactical?) ever find a replacement vendor for NP3?

[19852+]

Clean the parts and then spray them with Boeshield T-9 and let them dry. It stopped our shotguns from rusting in trunks.

Yes, Boeshield is good stuff as is Frog Lube for exterior rust prevention. I stopped using the Frog for actual lubrication as it became gummy but it is proven to slow down corrosion. The maker of WD40 also makes a rust preventative that is also very good. I live in a tropical environment and mine get wet often. A year ago I shot a two gun match in non-stop rain, so bad that if you dropped a mag it was lost. Zero rust on my AR and Colt government even though soaked through.

[flyrodr]

Boeshield works great . . . when used as designed.

From the product's web site (https://boeshield.com/why-boeshield-2/):

"T-9’s unique formulation of solvent carrier and paraffin wax coating was engineered to penetrate crevices deeply, displace moisture, dissolve minor corrosion, and leave a clean, waxy coating with lasting durability—without using Teflon, silicone, fluorocarbons, MEK, or acetone."

If a proposed application involves spraying a bunch of moving and/or tightly fitting parts, or smallish springs, the residual "waxy coating" can literally "cement" parts together or greatly slow/inhibit movement.

So a friend told me . . .

[Sauer Koch]

Did anyone (LangdonTactical?) ever find a replacement vendor for NP3?

He deals directly with Coating Technologies.

Cajun Gun Works is a dealer, but ONLY for CZ guns.
I wouldn't use Wright Armory again...
I'd go with Vang Comp, or Cylinder & Slide. There is also Amerigun (Michigan), but don't know anything about them.

[Spartan1980]

This is an area (one of the few) where Froglube actually works, especially the paste form. Not long after it came out I did a corrosion test on it using a steel computer tower case. I did it just like we did in our ASTM B117 salt fog testing at the place I worked except that I placed it outside, leaned up against my storage building from about the first of February through August. It got snow, rain, hail, heavy dew, freeze/thaw cycled and birds shitting on it for about a half year.

It won out over Slip2K, Eezox, CLP, Ballistol, Mobil 1, Remoil and several others I've forgotten. It was very close with Eezox but had a bit less rust on the panels overall. I tested both the liquid and the paste product in two different ways. I just applied a very light film per package instructions and I also did the goofy heat/apply/cool/wipe with microfibre rag for 4 different panels in total. Believe it or not the goofy heat/wipe method worked better for both FL products, so I'm believing that it's actually a plant based wax of some sort. I'm not a real fan of FL especially for guns that don't get attention for long periods. I don't buy that it seeps into the pores of the metal BS at all and I'm not real impressed with it's lube ability, though it does have some. However it really is excellent for corrosion and is probably a pretty decent product overall if one is maintaining their weapon on a regular and most importantly FREQUENT basis. Kinda like I would imagine Navy Seals probably do when deployed? If you are addressing things like that it's fine. It also does well on the plastic sliding bits on Dillon presses and reloading dies (for storage). I still use the paste for this type of stuff. I threw the liquid in the trash as it doesn't dry, does attract dust, and is just a diluted version of the paste.

If you're curious as to what was the worst? Hands down it was CLP. That shit had rust going on it's panel as fast as the bare untreated control panel. Started the next day actually. That was kinda shocking as I figured it would be Ballistol since it is water miscible.

[jeep45238]

I went to a couple day training course last month in western Colorado. It was 90 and dry those two days. I wore a tshirt under my usual polo shirt and it was great. I needed a shower at the end of the day, but it wasn't horrible.

Here in Kansas, not so much. I sweat enough while working that my jeans often look like I've pissed myself by mid day, and depending on how many customers I see during the day, I may change shirts four or five times.

I work outdoors running chainsaws, with chaps, in high humidity and heat indexes going up to 105*F before we call it due to health concerns. Wringing out shirts two years ago, several times a day like a soaked beach towel was a normal occurrence. We don't do that any more with some simple changes.


Stop wearing jeans. Just, stop. It takes me a solid 2 weeks for the stubborn ones when they first start, but seriously jeans are one of the worst workwear pants to wear. Carhartt and Duluth standard pants wick much better and are far less miserable, and their hot weather pant versions are incredible. The cargo pant option doesn't fit like cargo pants, they are professional looking and don't scream gun either.

Move away from cotton shirts, and grab a compression thin undershirt and a synthetic wicking shirt to go with it - the best one I have is actually a polo.




Your jeans are just holding that moisture and high humidity in there around the gun. Stop it.

[spence]

I work outdoors running chainsaws, with chaps, in high humidity and heat indexes going up to 105*F before we call it due to health concerns. Wringing out shirts two years ago, several times a day like a soaked beach towel was a normal occurrence. We don't do that any more with some simple changes.


Stop wearing jeans. Just, stop. It takes me a solid 2 weeks for the stubborn ones when they first start, but seriously jeans are one of the worst workwear pants to wear. Carhartt and Duluth standard pants wick much better and are far less miserable, and their hot weather pant versions are incredible. The cargo pant option doesn't fit like cargo pants, they are professional looking and don't scream gun either.

Move away from cotton shirts, and grab a compression thin undershirt and a synthetic wicking shirt to go with it - the best one I have is actually a polo.




Your jeans are just holding that moisture and high humidity in there around the gun. Stop it.

I have to admit that immediately I am repulsed by the idea of wearing anything but Wranglers. And perhaps you could answer this but there's nothing worse than having a horse rip a leg away with nails in its foot that haven't yet been bent over. I have yet to be seriously stuck in this manner, but it's a real concern. Had plenty of holes ripped in my pants that way over the years.

Those synthetic wicking shirts are actually great, but since I have company shirts printed, I've had to deal with what my printer lady has. I don't know that I asked her about anything but cotton when I had these made two years ago. I'm sure someone around could screen print on them, just have to find a shop that can/does.

[Caballoflaco]

I have to admit that immediately I am repulsed by the idea of wearing anything but Wranglers. And perhaps you could answer this but there's nothing worse than having a horse rip a leg away with nails in its foot that haven't yet been bent over. I have yet to be seriously stuck in this manner, but it's a real concern. Had plenty of holes ripped in my pants that way over the years.

Those synthetic wicking shirts are actually great, but since I have company shirts printed, I've had to deal with what my printer lady has. I don't know that I asked her about anything but cotton when I had these made two years ago. I'm sure someone around could screen print on them, just have to find a shop that can/does.

I work in Landscaping and the printers we have used all offered modern wicking style shirts.