I couldn’t find anything else specific to my issue. I EDC an LTT Centurion AIWB. I did an M9 until not too long ago, and just started with them a year ago but this summer has been the first time it’s been full time with the 92. While I have lost a ton of weight, I still sweat like a woman of ill refute in church. As such I had to take the gun apart to clean a bunch of rust out of it. Namely in the hammer pin and hammer spring pin.
What the heck can I do to mitigate the issue?
Some of the abuse my 92s take:Originally Posted by spence
http://instagram.com/p/Bzf_dpeFHJf/
I'm in central Florida and have similar issues, although mine are normally on the barrel. My 92 with a stainless barrel doesn't have to much trouble as long as it gets the occasional wipe down. My normal EDC is a Langdon M9 which has the standard carbon steel 92 barrel. It rusts like a mother. Especially if I head anywhere along the waters edge. I'm planning to send that off to Langdon to get it NP3'd. Here is an IG post I made showing the issues on my Langdon M9.
http://instagram.com/p/B_-aBhspXqJ/
One major suggestion I would make, is to look for the hogue stainless steel grip screws. I suggest hogue because they're flat head. https://www.amazon.com/Hogue-Beretta...5792422&sr=8-2 That magical link should take you to the correct item, and hopefully help PF make a little off the referral. Those screws hold up far better than the standard grip screws that come on Berettas. They just dont rust as fast.
Before and after on the grip screw change.
http://instagram.com/p/B0CQE_0A0q4/
All that being said, I don't have much issue with rust near my firing pin area. I would ask what kind of holster you're using. My Keeper has a good sized sweat guard that protects that area from my folger's fueled acid sweat.
EDIT: Also make sure you watch the area under your slide stop. When the pistol is disassembled, just lift up that stop and take a look. Mine can sometimes build just enough rust to stick. In general I try to do a wipe down once a month, or every couple weeks.
I’ll look into your post further and post pictures up when I get home to my laptop. I was using a JMCK until about six week ago and went to a Dark Star gear, both with the full guard.
Edit. And oh the irony, now that I see my own comment on your IG post, I remember seeing it before.
it might be costly, but NP3 treatment might minimize oil wipe downs to monthly.
If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!
I have used thin coats of natural shoe polish, Johnsons floor wax, and Eezox on my Blued 1911s to prevent coastal NC rust. I honestly like the clear shoe polish route the best.
It's counter-intuitive, but in hot weather (95% of the year) I wear a t-shirt under a button or golf shirt. Unless I'm soaked, my pistol stays pretty dry.
"Gunfighting is a thinking man's game. So we might want to bring thinking back into it."-MDFA
Beware of my temper, and the dog that I've found...
I don’t currently carry a 92, but I’ve found sweat guards and tank-top/wife-beater undershirts work great at mitigating the sweat from the get go.
I wear a T shirt between myself and the gun quite a bit as well.
Paging @Les Pepperoni
I went to a couple day training course last month in western Colorado. It was 90 and dry those two days. I wore a tshirt under my usual polo shirt and it was great. I needed a shower at the end of the day, but it wasn't horrible.
Here in Kansas, not so much. I sweat enough while working that my jeans often look like I've pissed myself by mid day, and depending on how many customers I see during the day, I may change shirts four or five times. Thus I hesitate to think about wearing undershirts because then I'm sweating just that much more and changing two, instead of one, after every stop. While I am physically working at each stop, I do not keep it on me, bent over with any sized gun in your pants just isn't all that comfortable. However, once I finish, I usually carry it since I often stop for gas, bathroom, drinks, etc.
Here it is last week.
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