Would there be an issue in dropping a stainless-steel trigger into a blued gun? Would there be a corrosion issue with dissimilar metals?
Would there be an issue in dropping a stainless-steel trigger into a blued gun? Would there be a corrosion issue with dissimilar metals?
If we have to march off into the next world, let us walk there on the bodies of our enemies.
Usually the issue with corrosion from dissimilar metals is galvanic corrosion from mixing aluminum with steel (for example). I'm not aware of that happening with stainless and non-stainless. In fact, S&W routinely used carbon steel innards in stainless frames (ie the 6xx series of guns).Originally Posted by Stephanie B
I have no data to support it, but I'd be more concerned with the wear points between the stainless trigger and carbon steel hammer (assuming you're not replacing both). Would one wear the other more than normal? Dunno...
Chris
Back when I was heavy into a hobby that involved a lot of restoration, I was assured that galvanic corrosion between "stainless" and "carbon" steels was generally a nonissue in environments where there was no aqueous solution to provide an electrolyte. In a nutshell, the two were too close in the "EMF table" to worry about as long as there was even a thin application of oil or anti-seize compound on the stuff; metal combinations like copper-based alloys and aluminum* were more problematic. Saltwater, though, can screw with about anything, as I found out.
Ruger has also used stainless components in blued firearms and vice versa for years, and I can't recall any significant issues (though somebody please correct me if I am wrong on this).
*One of my banes at the time was running across aluminum castings that had small brass fasteners threaded into them. If they had been out in the elements for a long time (particularly near a seacoast), the fasteners generally had to be drilled through with a bit corresponding to the minor diameter of the thread and the remains carefully removed to preserve what threads were left in the casting. Why manufacturers predestined expensive castings to destructive corrosion by using a corrosion-resistant throwaway fastener remains a mystery to me, unless they simply intended it to corrode in place for a vibration-proof assembly.
gn
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No problem. Think stainless slide on carbon frame(1911). One could argue thats a better situation than stainless on stainless.
The question is not material, it is "dropping in." Might take some tinkering to get it to work right.
Code Name: JET STREAM
My 629 has had a blued hammer and trigger I had to install myself after a “gunsmith “ botched trigger work. They were all I could locate at the time. It’s not been used hard since but I don’t see any problems.
Then I'm going to go for it.
I'll probably see if it works in the 19, as that's a nickeled gun and it won't look weird.
On the plus side of this project, the 19 had a slight carryup issue. The new trigger seemed to have fixed that; I guess there was a very slight bit of wear, somewhere, and that taking that ..001-ish of slop out cured it.
Which tells me that the problem will soon return, but this isn't going to be a "shoot the crap out of" gun.
If we have to march off into the next world, let us walk there on the bodies of our enemies.
Yeah, blued GP100s still have stainless hammers and triggers. I haven't heard about problems, either. But it may be because bluing is a sufficiently poor rust preventative that if a blued gun rusts, nobody can seriously blame it on the stainless.
Keep oil on it. Also, nickel plating reverses the corrosion risk. Nickel is higher up the EMF tables than the chromium that makes stainless problematic. You'd about have to lube it with graphite to cause problems for the nickel.
*I've seen worse than that. It's amazing how far a person can get in engineering without a working knowledge of the corrosion phenomena applicable to fastener systems.
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Not another dime.
As noted, corrosion, no. mtnbkr does raise the interesting issue of differing metal hardness possibly causing premature wear, but that's probably academic in this instance.
Are we talking a S&W revolver here? If so, non-issue; S&W hasn't used stainless triggers in over fifty years, and then only briefly. The stainless looking triggers used from the late '60s up through the '00s are actually flash-chromed carbon steel.
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Even with carry-up apparently corrected, check your index; you can have corrected carry-up and still not be indexing properly.
As for dropping in the trigger, it might work without fitting and it might not; it also might "work" by feel and fire, but be operating at sub-optimal fit. There are a lot of little angles in the lockwork that need to be at specific fit and clearance to work correctly, and getting in there and measuring's the only way to really know -- typical function checks alone won't do.
If you're not using a knowledgeable gunsmith to do the work (or at least check yours), hopefully you have Khunhausen.
Hain’t we got all the fools in town on our side? And ain’t that a big enough majority in any town?
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