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Thread: I need a new flashlight

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post
    Quark QK16L MKIII - https://darksucks.com/collections/fo...rk-qk16l-mkiii

    Or the QK2A MKIII - https://darksucks.com/collections/fo...ark-qk2a-mkiii

    Conversion Bodies Are available as well: https://darksucks.com/collections/fo...version-bodies

    The new Quarks are as quality as the old ones, the new owner of Foursevens (Jason Hui) is a man committed to a high quality product and provides good customer service as well. The only thing I don't like about the new Quarks is that they recommend against the use of Alkaline batteries in AA and AAA lights. I understand why (because they leak), but in my experience, one of the primary reasons to choose an AA or AAA light is broad availability of batteries. The good news is, you shouldn't experience any major issues if you use them short-term, just don't stick two alkalines in your light and then leave it in your glovebox for 3-years. Alkalines have shorter lifespan, so I would expect run-time to be diminished. It is what it is.

    If you want the closest to the most bomb-ass version of the old school Quark. Get a QK16L, a 1xAA conversion body, and 14500 high-discharge (4.2v) batteries. That will give you 700-lumens of turbo/burst mode in a 1xAA form factor, when assembled. I have two in the old school (twist head for low mode) and they are awesome.
    I stopped using alkaline any time I have a choice several years ago. In the vast majority of devices, Eneloop NiMH cells provide superior performance without any danger of leaking. In the rare device for which they do not work well (two out of several dozen in my household), Energizer Ultimate Lithium works well.

    Although the initial costs of cells and chargers is high, NiMH will save a lot of money in the long term. It is also nice not to have any reason to ever have less than an 80% charge. Two members of my household have 4xAA lights on their bikes, and being able to charge and replace after every night ride is nice.

    Furthermore, around the time I started switching, I lost multiple Maglights to peaking alkaline batteries. The cost of ruined devices must also be considered.

    If I am traveling, need de batteries now, and can only quickly and easily get alkalines, the. It is nice to have that option, but that is the limit of their usefulness to me.


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    Any legal information I may post is general information, and is not legal advice. Such information may or may not apply to your specific situation. I am not your attorney unless an attorney-client relationship is separately and privately established.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by MGW View Post
    The Body Guard type 1 sounds like a really great light. I’m split between it and the battery versatility of the Pro-Tac 1L 1AA. I was gifted a rechargeable Streamlight Strion LED a few years ago that I use for bedside. It’s been a really good light. I really like the idea lumen output and interface of the Body Guard.
    If you use 16340 Li-Ion cells, the Bodyguard is nice. If you use CR123, the longer runtime of the Streamlight may make more sense.


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    Any legal information I may post is general information, and is not legal advice. Such information may or may not apply to your specific situation. I am not your attorney unless an attorney-client relationship is separately and privately established.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by delphidoc View Post
    The pics below are my Zebralight SC52w. The current version is the SC53c, among others. Runs on a single AA battery. 285 lumens on high.

    I also have a couple of their floody headlamps. Also run on a single AA battery. Current version is the H53Fw, among others.


    Attachment 57067


    Attachment 57068

    Finally another man of culture.



    I'd go a step further and recommend the Zebralight SC5c or SC5w. They are slightly thicker but they are designed to give 14500 output on a AA sized battery and still smaller than most. The SC5c would be my choice as it's a 4000K tint with a CRI of 93-95 but you're giving up some over lumens (476 max vs the 550) the UI is predictable, intuitive and the newer versions are entirely programmable so if you really just wanted to make a single mode light you could.

    http://www.zebralight.com/SC5c-Mk-II...CRI_p_192.html

    My other favorite AA light is the Eagletac D25A Mk2 as it's the slimmest AA light out there period that's still worth a damn and it has a pretty good UI with a good. I have one with the Nichia emitter which reduces the overall output but it has the nicest tint and CRI of the options. If you don't care about tint you can get 400 lumens out of a single AA
    http://www.eagtac.com/html/d25arcmkii/index.html

    One of the best budget AA out there is the Thrunite T10 II as it's $24 but it's only pushing 160 lumens
    https://thrunite.com/t10/




    If you're willing to go to Lithium Ion batteries you can get the Zebralight SC64c which isn't much bigger than the SC5 but it does put out 900 lumens and has the same UI and all that:
    http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-1...ion_p_239.html

    Or you can go crazy with this little pocket rocket the Lumintop FW3A that will out 2800 lumens out something not much thicker but it will get super hot and might burn you.

    https://www.illumn.com/lumintop-fw3a...lashlight.html

    If 2800 lumens isn't enough you can step it up to the Emisar D4V2 which can put out 4200 lumens with a slightly thicker head. Be careful if you go this route though as the Emisar D4 on full power will get so hot it will burn through pants pockets, bags or anything else you have near it. It will light paper on fire and it will eventually get so hot that it will desolder the LED itself but don't worry as it will get way to hold to old before then.
    https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2...lashlight.html

    If that isn't enough you you can even put a 18350 tube on it (compatible with a CR123a) and get the same output with a reduced runtime in a tiny little package like this:
    https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/...isar_clip_and/

  4. #44
    Supporting Business NH Shooter's Avatar
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    As a flashlight nerd, I carry two lights;




    The smaller of the two rides in my pocket 24/7. Its role is to serve as a general utility light, which I think is the use the OP has in mind. This is a single-mode, 230 lumen light that I find perfect for this application. It runs on full output with a Li-ion 16340 cell, and at about half output with a single CR123 lithium battery. Runtime with the 16340 is about two hours before a noticeable fall in output, and will run a few hours more with a slow, steady decline to dim.

    I very much like single-output lights. Partially press the McClicky switch it's on, let it go and it's off (click for constant-on). No messing with multiple presses of the tail cap switch to get the level I want. I find the 230-lumen output to be perfect for my utilitarian uses - bright enough so see around outdoors in the dark, but not overwhelming inside when looking for something in the back of a closet or under the furniture for a missing item. The light measures 3-3/4" long, 1-1/8" OD at the bezel and weighs 4 ounces. It's not the smallest or lightest, but sits in the bottom of a pants pocket comfortably and built like a tank that will take endless abuse. This light is made of the following components;

    https://malkoffdevices.com/collectio...r123-body-only

    https://malkoffdevices.com/collectio...-concepts-head

    https://malkoffdevices.com/collectio...o-fit-surefire

    The other cool thing about this Lego is that there are many drop-ins that can be used, so I'm not stuck with what some light manufacturer thinks I need.

    The light on the top is dedicated entirely to self-defense purposes. She's a wicked 70,000-candela retina-searing bitch that you can read about here - see post #32 for details on the current version shown here. Clips comfortably to the inside of a front pants pocket.

  5. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by BillSWPA View Post
    Streamlight's ProTac 1L-1AA gives you the option of using either a single CR123 or a single AA cell. Runtime is similar either way, but the output is higher with CR123. It can be programmed for your preferred mode of operation (mine is set up for high mode only). Regardless of which other lights I have with me when I travel, I have this light as a backup since I can likely find an AA cell almost anywhere I am likely to go.
    I always have one of these in my pocket. No issues. I use it daily at work, and it munches batteries. Still worth having.

  6. #46
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    Too big for your needs, but a note about Streamlights. I've had a streamlight 2L for probably 5 years now that gets used for walking the dog and jogging. Its been dropped plenty of times and keeps going. I don't notice any warning signs that the batteries are low before the light will turn off unexpectedly. Usually a click off then on will get it back. Not sure if its because I only use it on low, or just me being dim, or if its my sample of 1. If you get a streamlight and don't already you may want a strict battery replacement schedule.

  7. #47
    Hammertime
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    Desert Southwest
    Quote Originally Posted by delphidoc View Post
    The pics below are my Zebralight SC52w. The current version is the SC53c, among others. Runs on a single AA battery. 285 lumens on high.

    I also have a couple of their floody headlamps. Also run on a single AA battery. Current version is the H53Fw, among others.


    Attachment 57067


    Attachment 57068
    I have not been without a similar Zebralight for years. I simply love it.

  8. #48
    Delta Busta Kappa fratboy Hot Sauce's Avatar
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    Oct 2014
    Quote Originally Posted by blues View Post
    @Hot Sauce

    I haven't found it to be problematic. I tend to aim low with the light to begin with unless I suspect I'm dealing with a live threat. No issues with walls etc for me personally. You can light up a lot of stuff up just aiming off or reflecting off the floor.

    The difference is not as big as it "sounds". It may be somewhat like music amplification in that it takes a lot more energy to come close to doubling the signal. (But I use that only as an illustration.)
    Quote Originally Posted by BillSWPA View Post
    I have not found it to be overwhelming. My understanding is that you need at least 450 lumens in order to have a noticeable effect on someone on the receiving end, and I want to be sure my light has that potential.
    Thanks guys. I feel like I've stepped into a light nerd ambush with this thread.

    With the Bodyguard V1, what kind of realistic run times are you guys getting?

    I'm not sold on the idea of going to the more boutique specialty batteries yet, so I'm thinking with CR123A in mind. One other thing to mention, I don't plan to carry multiple lights, so I'm coming at it from that standpoint.
    Gaming will get you killed in the streets. Dueling will get you killed in the fields.
    -Alexander Hamilton

  9. #49
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    I've been using various Streamlight ProTac's lately. Similar sized Surefires are brighter. I sold a basic Surefire and bouggt 3 Streamlight's.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hot Sauce View Post
    Thanks guys. I feel like I've stepped into a light nerd ambush with this thread.

    With the Bodyguard V1, what kind of realistic run times are you guys getting?

    I'm not sold on the idea of going to the more boutique specialty batteries yet, so I'm thinking with CR123A in mind. One other thing to mention, I don't plan to carry multiple lights, so I'm coming at it from that standpoint.
    I never did any runtime testing. Malkoff is known for providing accurate runtime information. Given the short stated runtime for a high percentage of intermittent, full power use, I check my 16340 voltage frequently. If it is much below 4 v, I replace it with a fully charged 16340 and place the partially depleted one on a charger.

    I would encourage using 16340 instead of CR123 with the Bodyguard. With CR123, you have to choose between carrying the light with a partially depleted cell or discarding cells that still have usable runtime. Although the cost of these cells is much lower than when I first got into CR123 lights, a 16340 is still superior. Li-Ion does not develop memory, and can be topped off without reducing runtime. If in doubt, just pop in a fully charged cell and throw the other one on a charger.


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    Any legal information I may post is general information, and is not legal advice. Such information may or may not apply to your specific situation. I am not your attorney unless an attorney-client relationship is separately and privately established.

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