I'm not JRB but I wouldn't be too concerned about it. If I was I would want to pull the oil pan and at least visually inspect the oil pickup.
I don't have access to the Toyota manuals anymore but the min specs you listed seem to be a little higher than what I remember.
I'm baffled by the resistance to start stop (I love it a) because it works and b) because it creates a market for power cells which we use for stuff that kicks insurgent ass). I feel like any minute now one of you is going to use the term 'new-fangled.' In a short while it will be like asking for air with less nitrogen, though -- expect it on every vehicle as makers try to reduce the emissions at the fleet level.
Because it's no benefit to me but at a cost to me. When it's most useful at what it claims to do, it's also greatly reducing my battery life. 40% reduction in battery life when it shuts off on average of once a mile. Any average below every 6 miles has a measurable effect on battery life, per Dept. of Energy. Starters get heat soaked as you drive and hot starters work harder then cold starters, so every hot start reduces the life of your starter further. Again, per DoE, 200% reduction in life span for 20 starts a day vs 5 starts a day. Over a 10 year period with a 5L engine and city driving you're looking at maybe $2k in increased maintenance costs.Originally Posted by JAD
For a hybrid where the battery is designed to get the car rolling and it's not using a traditional starter, start/stop is more logical. A "retro-fit" to standard motors is just there to game the gov't mandated testing, not for any benefit to the end user, IMO.
Sorta around sometimes for some of your shitty mod needs.
sample of one, but your assertion that "it works" is wrong. It doesn't. I have my wife's Honda as one example, and multiple rental cars. I come to a stop, the engine shuts off, I press the gas, and the car doesn't respond.
and the wife has already been through something like 3 batteries in the time that my truck has gone through 1.
THAT'S my "resistance".
the fact that it's also borne out of "climate change" environmental bullshit legislation to make Al Gore's companies richer is just icing on the "I hate this shit" cake.
Now hybrid, if it "works" is some environmental bullshit I can get behind. We rented a Volvo V90 in Norway and I'd love to own a car like that here, or a truck with that tech. never had a single problem with that system there for ten days.
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Hey Chris! - the 10psi per 1000rpm is an old pushrod oil pressure rule of thumb, and it's not bad but it's not 100% accurate to life these days.
For instance, the new Gen V Chevy's like the direct injected 6.2L L86 V8 found in the Escalade, GMC's, etc has regulated oil pressure that runs at a low pressure setting of about 40psi when 'low' and about 65psi when 'high'. In those engines, oil pressure does not vary with RPM it is switched electronically depending on engine load etc. But I've personally pumped over 1000whp through those engines and our only issue has been keeping up with fuel demand since the direct injection falls off very abruptly around 700whp. But I digress.
With your 3.4L, I'd drop a magnetic drain plug in it and see what you get when you change the oil next year. If there's a coating of stuff on the drain plug you'll be fine. If there's a glob of it, I'd be concerned and at that point @Outlier is 100% right about dropping the pan to inspect it.
But so long as the 10w30 is making oil pressure within Toyota spec and there's no other issues, no weird noises and nothing otherwise concerning to you aside from oil pressure, I wouldn't sweat it or worry about changing oils just yet. The Mobil 1 5w40 Euro is fantastic stuff, though, and I would switch to that with 100% confidence if you felt like it. For oil filters, Napa Golds for that application are a really nicely made Wix oil filter that's almost always under $10.
100% with you there, they seemed a bit higher to me as well. I remember reading the min spec for the 5VZ's and having a 'WTF' moment a long time ago.
^This is *EXACTLY* right. Did you moonlight as a tech at some point? You apparently can speak tech...
Just yesterday I saw a ~3yo Chevy Impala dead at an intersection with a very distressed 30-something woman driver. Two of APD's Police Service Aides were there and apparently trying to show her how to put it in neutral so they could push it into a nearby parking lot. Having had a rental Impala of the same spec and vintage, I'd have bet my Glock 19 that the start/stop failed from battery or starter motor death.sample of one, but your assertion that "it works" is wrong. It doesn't. I have my wife's Honda as one example, and multiple rental cars. I come to a stop, the engine shuts off, I press the gas, and the car doesn't respond.
and the wife has already been through something like 3 batteries in the time that my truck has gone through 1.
THAT'S my "resistance".
the fact that it's also borne out of "climate change" environmental bullshit legislation to make Al Gore's companies richer is just icing on the "I hate this shit" cake.
Now hybrid, if it "works" is some environmental bullshit I can get behind. We rented a Volvo V90 in Norway and I'd love to own a car like that here, or a truck with that tech. never had a single problem with that system there for ten days.
I'm also with you on the tech that works vs the tech that doesn't. Forcing us to all drive a Prius, or forcing this start/stop BS into otherwise reliable vehicles is BS.
But if they want to develop that hybrid tech to fill the power curve underneath the turbo V8 I've got ala McLaren P1, I'm down!
If being a poor and having to work on my own stuff counts, yes.Mostly just knowing how to do benefit/cost analysis and research thanks to business process management training.
Sorta around sometimes for some of your shitty mod needs.
That's how it worked for me, too. Nothing will make you a mechanic faster than having the coolest car in your high school parking lot on Friday, spinning a rod bearing over the weekend, and riding the bus on Monday morning.If being a poor and having to work on my own stuff counts, yes.
Felt like I figured out how to put a new engine in, then I helped some friends with some cars, then I started doing it for money, and the next thing I knew I was the shop foreman of the largest performance shop in my state.
That business process management training would have helped me A LOT... and it likely would have talked me out of the high performance industry entirely. Too many variables with little control, too much liability, shrinking market, etc.
on the subject of tailgates...
I'm somewhat surprised that Ford's entry into the tailgate wars is limited to clamping locations and a "work surface". or, maybe that's intentional as GM and Ram have maybe gotten a little silly with their multi-function tailgates. maybe this is Ford's way of saying "yeah, we were the first ones to monkey with the tailgate with our silly little ladder, but you people have gone nuts with all that folding nonsense." Maybe the ladder was the ultimate tailgate troll...
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Cool, thanks! I'll try to remember changing the drain plug when I change the oil...next summer.
I've never dropped an oil pan, so that will be an adventure. I've done more complicated things though.
I don't currently use Wix/Napa, I'm working through a stock of Purolator I bought when they were closed at at Wal-Mart for $1.50 each. I bought all they had on hand and haven't needed filters for 7 years. I have one left...
WTF in what way?
Chris
Purolator will be just fine, they were good back in the day. Likely you won't need to drop the oil pan, at least that's my gut feeling. 5VZ's don't know when to quit, and when they finally do quit they're usually really damn loud about it for a long time before - Lots of ticking/rattling in the top end, just loud/grumpy running etc.Cool, thanks! I'll try to remember changing the drain plug when I change the oil...next summer.
I've never dropped an oil pan, so that will be an adventure. I've done more complicated things though.
I don't currently use Wix/Napa, I'm working through a stock of Purolator I bought when they were closed at at Wal-Mart for $1.50 each. I bought all they had on hand and haven't needed filters for 7 years. I have one left...
Lower than I expected it to be for a service limit minimum.
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