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Thread: Extreme newbie question: recommendations on cleaning supplies?

  1. #31
    Site Supporter Jay585's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    Which "water based cleaner"?
    Simple Green

    https://simplegreen.com/products/all-purpose-cleaner/
    "Well you know, it's a toolbox. You put the tools in for the job." Sam

  2. #32
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay585 View Post
    Not a chem E, so take with a grain of salt: Why would you use something that strongly alkaline (8.5-9.0, according to the MSDS) on polymer and coated metal parts?

  3. #33
    Site Supporter Jay585's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    Not a chem E, so take with a grain of salt: Why would you use something that strongly alkaline (8.5-9.0, according to the MSDS) on polymer and coated metal parts?
    Mostly because I'm clueless and am unware about stuff like that. So I take it I shouldn't use it anymore?
    "Well you know, it's a toolbox. You put the tools in for the job." Sam

  4. #34
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay585 View Post
    Mostly because I'm clueless and am unware about stuff like that. So I take it I shouldn't use it anymore?
    Beats me.

    I was just curious, given there were other, firearm specific cleaner solutions available? But I'll defer to anyone with specific knowledge on Simple Green. It just seemed kinda alkaline to me, but I'm no ChemE, for sure.

    My general approach for solvents is a "do least harm" approach; so if I can shift caked on gunshot residue and carbon using a wet patch wrapped around a plastic toothpick, or maybe a toothbrush, I'll tend to do that.

  5. #35
    Site Supporter Jay585's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    Beats me.

    I was just curious, given there were other, firearm specific cleaner solutions available? But I'll defer to anyone with specific knowledge on Simple Green. It just seemed kinda alkaline to me, but I'm no ChemE, for sure.

    My general approach for solvents is a "do least harm" approach; so if I can shift caked on gunshot residue and carbon using a wet patch wrapped around a plastic toothpick, or maybe a toothbrush, I'll tend to do that.
    Mostly I use it because it's odorless and doesn't linger in the house. Plus I feel better about cleaning guns in the sink knowing that the cleaning solution is "green".
    "Well you know, it's a toolbox. You put the tools in for the job." Sam

  6. #36
    I used to really really geek out on this stuff, and have done a lot of research and testing over the years. Wasted time and money, for the most part.

    Here's my recommendations for the Glock -

    1. Glock manual and a Lone Wolf reference guide.
    2. Glock factory punch or standard 3/32 pin punch
    3. Glock factory cleaning rod and brush
    4. Hoppe's Boresnake for quick cleanings
    5. Double-ended GI style nylon cleaning brush
    6. Q-tips and pipe cleaners
    7. Roll of Scott Heavy Duty solvent resistant paper towels.
    8. A Mag Claw magazine disassembly tool is awesome, but not a must have.
    9. A plastic box or ammo can to store everything.


    Solvents and lubricants - there are two ways to go here. You can order the Gucci stuff or shop what is locally available. No wrong answers here.


    I like low or no odor, and non-toxic whenever I can get it. Milcomm TW25-B grease is excellent but expensive. The products from Breakthrough Clean and Slip 2000 are great.

    Break-Free CLP and the Mpro-7 line are widely available and they will work just fine. As others have said, don't over-think this, or worse yet, over-spend.

    Loctite, a brass or Delrin punch and a 3/16" nut driver are about the only other things you might need, if you throw some different sights on your Glock down the road.


    Hope this helps.

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay585 View Post

    On multiple of those AGI video's, they use Simple Green and then neutralize it. If I remember correctly, there was a warning on the bottle about use with aluminum. (but it has been a while since I have had any except for use as grout cleaner)

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay585 View Post
    Mostly because I'm clueless and am unware about stuff like that. So I take it I shouldn't use it anymore?
    SLIP2000 has a water based cleaner designed for firearms

    725 Gun Cleaner http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_725.php

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by UNM1136 View Post
    To show how important cleaning/lubing stuff works, I have been a fan for many, many years of OP (other people's) supplies.

    I do buy my own, but am a brake cleaner/bore snake/literally any type of lube kinda guy.

    Uncle Pat, working for an OGA literally had endless ammo, time and supplies. More than he and his guys could use annually. He used motor oil, suntan oil, cooking oil, and butter(!) to lube his rifles. It All Worked! where and when it is placed is more important than what is placed.

    pat
    Just tripped over the link below and remembered this thread:

    http://www.slip2000.com/blog/wp-cont...itrunning1.pdf

    S.W.A.T. DECEMBER 2006 KEEP YOUR CARBINE RUNNING, PATRICK A. ROGERS

    Definitely worth a read.
    Last edited by Gater; 07-11-2020 at 11:42 AM.

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