I'm revolver shopping and need guidance

[Stephanie B]

I've got my 40th birthday coming up next week and I've decided that now is a good time to get into shooting revolvers. Which means I'm revolver shopping and I need some help. My wheelgun experience is limited to SAAs, a 2.5" 629PC, and a 2.5" GP100 (still have that one). I am completely ignorant of the Ruger vs S&W vs Colt comparisons, and equally clueless about revolver maintenance.

Basic requirements:
1. Decent trigger or can be made to have one at the end-user level
2. Will hold up to a lot of dry practice. I only shoot 3-400 rounds a month these days, but I dry practice 2-3 times a week
3. 3" barrel. This will not replace my P229 as my carry gun, but I could see it as a hiking gun.
4. Under $1200ish
5. .38 special or larger
6. Aesthetically pleasing (no King Cobra)

Just from browsing, I'm a big fan of the S&W 625 in 45ACP with a 3" barrel. I see a few "model of 1989" on GB within my budget. I also like what I see from Ruger with the GP100 3" 10mm. I would be interested in a Python if they made a 3", though slightly over budget.

Anything in particular that I should be aware of? Any certain years of production to avoid, or specific models that stand out as exceptional?

Under $1,200 opens you to a 3" S&W Model 65, but if you want current production, the 2.75" Model 66 is a nice gun. If you can tolerate 4", some good deals sometimes arise for Model 64s and Model 10s. Your price range touches the Model 696, those are nice guns. If you reload, maybe a Model 58?

[BehindBlueI's]

Here's a 1753 on Gunbroker right now.

Ruger GP100 Wiley Clapp model 1753

I should have mentioned this is the Wiley Clapp model before. They also have a stainless finish but my personal preference is for the blued. I'd prob bob the hammer and it'd make a hell of a carry gun.

Someone please buy this before I do!

I have the blued and really like it and the aesthetics, but if it's possible it'll be pushed into hiking duties I'd go with the stainless.

[TGS]

@DocSabo40

From what you wrote, I'd go for either a current production S&W Model 66 2.75", or a Ruger GP100. I'm partial to 38/357, though.

Model 66 2.75" if you see yourself carrying IWB, GP100 for other stuff unless you simply prefer the 66 for whatever reason. The GP100 is a chunky boy.

[DocSabo40]

My 10mm GP100 isn’t happy with .40S&W using either OEM or Ranch Products moonclips. More misfires than actual ignitions. TK makes a thicker 0.040” moonclip just for .40 usage but since I don’t own any .40 guns or stock .40 ammo it isn’t something I concern myself with. It is 100% reliable with moonclipped or loose 10mm ammo. I bought my GP to complement my 10mm SR1911 but it has actually replaced it in the lineup.

In my opinion you can get a better trigger in a S&W but the Rugers are close enough, tougher and user serviceable.

Am I reading that right that you can load the 10mm GP100 without moon clips? Is this unique to the GP100 or can the 625 do this as well?

[Rick R]

Am I reading that right that you can load the 10mm GP100 without moon clips? Is this unique to the GP100 or can the 625 do this as well?

With my GP100, you can load and fire loose 10mm rounds with 100% reliability. Of course the extractor star can’t touch the fired casings but you can easily remove them with the tip of your finger. FWIW, I carry six rounds in a 38/357 speed strip for administrative reloads and have used L frame size Safariland speed loaders to load loose rounds just for grins & chuckles.

My previous S&W 325 would reliably fire loose rounds but they were somewhat harder to extract.

[Borderland]

Am I reading that right that you can load the 10mm GP100 without moon clips? Is this unique to the GP100 or can the 625 do this as well?

My 625-8 will shoot without moon clips. The extractor won't extract the brass but the cases just fall out. I believe it headspaces on the mouth of the case without the moon clip. Don't know about older models, I only have that one.

I have a bunch of older S&W's but I'm not a yuge fan of the newer ones. An older 625 would be my choice. 357 would be a 686 pre dash 6. Don't know anything about Ruger revolvers.

[OlongJohnson]

If I were in your situation I'd look at the Ruger GP100 model 1753 from Talo. 3" .357 with Novak sights. I don't have personal experience with this particular one but the GP100 has a proven record and this model seems to fit your preferred requirements and has a lot going for it.

Happy Birthday and welcome to the 40+ club!

That's a good option.

Don't know why you need a 3-inch when you already have a 2.5-inch. I'd just go GP100 Match Champion. It should balance not too differently from the 3-inch, since it has the short ejector shroud (or half lug) barrel.

IME, you'll have to send it back to the factory to get it fixed, whether you buy a Ruger or an S&W. The difference is that it will be fixed when you get it back from Ruger.

[Half Moon]

My 625-8 will shoot without moon clips. The extractor won't extract the brass but the cases just fall out. I believe it headspaces on the mouth of the case without the moon clip. Don't know about older models, I only have that one.

I have a bunch of older S&W's but I'm not a yuge fan of the newer ones. An older 625 would be my choice. 357 would be a 686 pre dash 6. Don't know anything about Ruger revolvers.

Best of my knowledge all the Smith .45 ACP revolvers, going back to the 1917, can headspace on the case mouth for loose loading in an emergency. The early Colt 1917 chambers by contrast were bored straight through and had to have a moon clip. Never shot the 10 mm Ruger revolvers but have heard some reports of light strike issues without the clips. Then again I've heard other folks say never a problem.

[okie john]

I don’ t know much about Colts, but several models offered by Ruger and S&W can meet all of your requirements as folks have mentioned. That said, here are a few more things to consider.

First is a stainless finish for durability. This rules out some of the older classic models from both makers but both Ruger and Smith are building their best guns ever so I’m not sure you’re losing much for your stated purposes.

I’d also look at a 4” or 4.25” barrel. They’re not hard to conceal and this option lets you consider more models from both makers. Also, many states require a 4” barrel for hunting if you get interested in that.

Adjustable sights offer a better sight picture than most fixed sights, plus they’re a godsend if you fiddle with ammo much. You can upgrade Rugers and Smiths with Bowen Rough-Country sights, plus some folks make high-visibility, heavy-duty fixed sights for them. It’s also easier to add optics to an adjustable-sight gun than to a fixed-sight gun.

A good balance of weight to recoil. Both makers offer models in 44 Magnum and heavier cartridges, but 4” N-frame is about as light as I’d go in 44 Mag and is too light for anything heavier.

With all of your criteria plus all of mine, I’d look at a S&W Model 625 Jerry Mickulek. They offer an ideal power-to-weight ratio and they tend to be very accurate. They have a few peculiarities with regards to ammo but those are easily addressed.

Happy birthday,


Okie John

[paherne]

I chose an MR-88.