Just a Hairy Special Snowflake supply clerk with no field experience, shooting an Asymetric carbine as a Try Hard. Snarky and easily butt hurt. Favorite animal is the Cape Buffalo....likely indicative of a personality disorder.
"If I had a grandpa, he would look like Delbert Belton".
Just a Hairy Special Snowflake supply clerk with no field experience, shooting an Asymetric carbine as a Try Hard. Snarky and easily butt hurt. Favorite animal is the Cape Buffalo....likely indicative of a personality disorder.
"If I had a grandpa, he would look like Delbert Belton".
Is the all steel construction too heavy for pocket carry? Is the gun too big for that anyway?
With standard cut jeans and khakis, I can manage a older .38 M60 pretty well in a pocket if I wear a sturdy belt. If it had bigger sights, I probably would carry it more than my newer 442 that has sights that I can almost see. A 640 would be a wee bit heavier, though.
Resurrecting a 6 month old thread to see if anyone has any new information...apparently some of these were coming from the factory pretty rough and couldn't be bought sight unseen (hate to do that with a revolver), but I've seen none in the wild in my area. If I bought one, it would likely have to be over internet. While you could still refuse receipt, would like to avoid that scenario, so asking the hive.
I was the guy who sent mine back to KYGunCo when they had the sale. They looked at two more in their inventory, and they both had the same issues. Shortly after, their sale was over. I suspect it was just a bad batch. On the other hand, LSP972 bought one from KYGunCo on the same sale, and was quite satisfied with his.
The problem with buying a new revolver over the internet is that both S&W and Ruger have obvious QC lapses across the board on their revolvers. My GP had to be sent back to Ruger for refitting before I ever loaded live ammo in the cylinder. I'm still not done fixing their manufacturing defects, and there is an obvious issue that is ultimately only cosmetic, so the fix will be to live with it. It is, however, a really sweet piece as it sits. I've seen a badly canted barrel on a GP in the case at the local big box store. Non-concentric crowns have come and gone in S&W production back to the beginning of two-piece barrels, from what I've seen. Both brands are liable to deliver ratchets that are basically rosebuds of burrs. The last S&W I handled in a LGS, I went over my mental catalog of trouble spots: "That's pretty nice, hey they figured that out...WTH is that?" If it isn't one thing, it's another. You don't even have to do the detailed timing and fitup checks to find problems on most of them. I don't claim to be a revolver expert by any means, I'm just good at playing with blocks and looking at things. The author of the MIM parts section in the latest edition of the Kuhnhausen book said something along the lines of every S&W he'd inspected from the MIM era had some defect that would be obvious to any competent armorer-level inspector and should never have left the factory. I don't question it, given what I've seen as basically a revolver noob.
It used to be that there were excellent revolversmiths around the country who were also authorized S&W warranty stations. Theoretically, one of them might have been able to correct issues and have S&W pay him for the work. But S&W seems to be bringing all their warranty service in house, from what I've read. The quality of work done at S&W itself is variable, and there seems to be evidence that it's not what it once was. Some can still be good, but the average is slipping.
Ruger has a reputation for providing excellent service, but occasionally you hear of someone not being happy with the results even after a Ruger had been returned to the factory multiple times.
There are cases of both companies returning revolvers to customers having done no work, simply stating that they are in spec, when the guns are clearly not up to the standard of others of the same model.
The wise approach is to either have a revolver inspected by someone you consider reliable before it's shipped, plan on some back and forth shipping, buy from a local shop that lets you pick the best one, or just budget to send it to a competent smith to have any needed corrections done. You could also just do the transfer, and call S&W immediately to get a shipping label and have them fix it.
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Not another dime.