You're missing something.
The P250 is a DAO version of your Sig. Shares the same grip modules, magazines and other support equipment. Get one of those. Once the DAO smooths out, it is among the smoothest, lightest DA presses you'll find anywhere. They're also pretty cheap. Do a little reading and make sure you get the revised version, easily recognized visually.
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Not another dime.
The CoolFire system will actually cycle your slide and reset the trigger.
I love getting guns, but this could bee a case where getting an accessory system may be more beneficial.
Per the PF Code of Conduct, I have a commercial interest in the StreakTM product as sold by Ammo, Inc.
Per what everyone else said, don't trade in your gun to nominally reduce the effort associated with dry firing. Big waste of money. Focus on what you got unless you want to trade it in for another reason.
No. There is neither a need nor a benefit, and maybe there's even some harm, in pulling through a DA shot on each and every dry fire shot in training. DA/SA is pretty much all that I dry fire, and I don't pull through the DA on each shot. A lot of cornerstone dry fire exercises don't involve pulling trigger at all. Some of them you must pull, some of them you don't. A ton of excellent shooters got very nice results from dry fire by pulling on dead triggers.Originally Posted by Aea
Welcome to p-f.
Doesn't read posts longer than two paragraphs.
I agree with everyone else, stick to whatever you are planning on carrying for dry fire practice. A DA/SA trigger pull will be drastically different than a striker fired pistol. One thing I'll add is there is some magazine that I forget the name of, maybe someone else here will now what I am talking about, but basically it is a dry fire only magazine you insert into your pistol and it resets the trigger in certain striker fired pistols. I think it was around $100 though. Personally I'd just get used to racking the slide and invest the money in a class or ammo or whatever else you may need.
This ^^^^
I concur that selecting a gun for dryfire only purposes, that differs in design and action from your primary weapon system, to save time and/or effort of racking the slide falls into the realm of false economy.
Many of the reasons mentioned before me, but another to add to the pile - Your finger placement, grip, general sight index, etc. Will all be different between the two guns. There is not a compelling reason, particularly for a novice shooter, to engage in such, pardon my phrase, monkey fucking, when it comes to building critical fundamental skills in using a pistol. Once you've firmly established your fundamental skills - monkey fuck around, if you want, though I'd advise against it.
I'd like to tell you, when you've done ~10,000 presses with the P320 trigger, you'll have your fundamentals down. But I don't think that is true. I have no idea how many reps I have with various pistols over the past ~25 years, but I would guess it's in the high six digits and maybe even a million+ and at times my fundamentals can be weak sauce. Part of that is, I have tendency to monkey fuck about with things, right around the time I settle into a good established rhythm (hence my advice not too do that).
I concur with the dryfire book, it helps break up the monotony of dryfire training. I pick some fundamental aspect every week to practice. Draw stroke, sight alignment, trigger press, follow through - are the four major fundamental skills for pistol shooting. So, I pick something from that pile and then I often will add something else (target transitions, distance transitions, partially obscured targets, reloads, etc.) to my training pile for the week. I don't dryfire as much as some folks here, usually 60-minutes per week, but my goals are pretty basic and that is to maintain my existing skills and refine a few others (drawstroke mainly).
Roll up a small piece of paper and put it in the ejection port of the pistol vertically. Your slide will not close all the way. You will not have to rack the slide and can do multiple trigger pulls.
I would focus on teaching ability over everything else. Dip your toe in with an hour or two. If the instructor can't evaluate, teach, or communicate, then everything else is irrelevant. Beware of instructors that seem to lean on catchphrases and buzzwords, or ones that want to perform shooting tricks to impress you. Similarly, I would be impressed with an instructor that knew the limits of their knowledge and was willing to provide recommendations for areas they were unfamiliar with. I would be cautious of an instructor that sought to run down his colleagues by name.
Ask questions pertinent to what you want instruction in. For instance, if I was interested in carry instruction, I might ask a potential instructor to explain why Serpa holsters are so reviled. If the response is, "What's a Serpa holster?", I know to look elsewhere. If you're looking at basic instruction, perhaps ask the instructor to explain what follow-through (one of the fundamentals of pistol shooting) is. This is a reasonable question a newbro might have. Follow-through is the act of applying the other fundamentals of shooting--grip, trigger control, and sight alignment, principally--before, during, and after the shot. It is not "Doing the same thing on the next shot".
In terms of specific credentials, I think it depends on what you want to gain from the instructor, and what that instructor's background is in. For basic instruction, I would seek NRA basic pistol instructor credentials from a competitive shooter, along with some degree of accomplishment in their respective pistol discipline. If the instructor claimed a police or military background, I would want to hear that they had spent some portion of their careers teaching handgun shooting. However, I would caution that police and military instructors can sometimes be very rigid in technique--their respective organization had a particular method or way, and required everyone to adhere to that method, whereas a civilian shooter can benefit more from adapting training and technique to them.
For more advanced instruction, I would look at relevant experience and their own training experience. If I was looking at CCW instruction from a police trainer, for instance, I might ask where they were employed, for how long, and what they did. I know of one instructor claiming to be a retired police officer--he was a cop in a department of less than 10 individuals, in a town of just a few thousand, for two years, thirty years ago. Similarly, if I was plunking down the big bucks for such instruction, I would want to see that the instructor had attended other classes relevant to what they were teaching. If I wanted to learn about using a red dot on a carry pistol, I would be quite impressed with an instructor that had been to, for instance, Scott Jedlinski's RDS and AIWB classes.
This! With practice you’d be surprised how fast you can do the short stroke striker cock (wish I had better phrasing for that) and re-holster... to the point you don’t even realize you’re doing it.
As much as we all like new guns, I don’t necessarily think a new gun is going to fix your problem. If you absolutely MUST have something new, then go snag a Beretta 92FS or 92X
Above all though, I would recommend going to take a class from a good reputable instructor. Perhaps one that could even teach you how to dryfire correctly. I wish I had done this 10 years ago when I was starting out. It would have saved me so much time and resources. And there’s no shortage of good instructors around the country. You’ll spend about the same amount of money, perhaps even less, on a good class as you would another gun and get SO much more out of it. Here’s a short list of people I’d go take a class from just to get you started down the path. Some of them are even forum members here.
MDFI
Chuck Haggard
Darryl Bolke
Tom Givens
Gabe White
Ben Stoeger
Claude Werner
JJ Racaza
Your M17/P320 is just fine for dryfire. With a striker pistol you don’t NEED to rack the slide every time for every trigger press. With that gun simply release your finger out just past the reset point (not slowly) and press the trigger again with the same weight that you’d normally press the trigger. Rinse and repeat for whatever drill you may be working on. I do this with Glocks and it helps tremendously.
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