What are everyone's thoughts regarding the LCR .357 vs the M&P 340? No desire to shoot .357 through either, but rather the durability and extra weight for .38 +p.
What are everyone's thoughts regarding the LCR .357 vs the M&P 340? No desire to shoot .357 through either, but rather the durability and extra weight for .38 +p.
Going in it blind, the LCR would be an easy learn.
If you have experience with S&W triggers... the LCR is a very different animal. You can always train on it, but why lose whatever skill you have and dump to something “different.” That was part of my reason of sticking with S&W. Others included a gun I already had (which was done in NP3 Plus, so would lose a lot on the sale) and having holsters/other gear that I’d have to replace.
Neither is really going to give you a better experience shooting. The .38 only LCR is lighter than my Airweight, but going titanium cylinder will put the J-frame under. .357/9mm LCRs... they are noticeably heavier. I compared my dad’s .357 LCR to my 642, and it wasn’t steel J-frame weight, but somewhere between the two.
"I'm a tactical operator and Instructor and also retired military."
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Has anyone who has installed an Apex spring kit had any problems with the trigger not resetting? The trigger on my 340 was not resetting so I opened it up and found the green paint on Apex rebound slide spring was chipping and there were green flakes all over the place. I cleaned everything up reinstalled the factory rebound slide spring but left the Apex firing pin, firing pin spring and main spring in. No the gun has a nice stout reset. I'm wondering if I just got a bad spring from Apex because I had a 442 with their spring kit in it and never had that issue.
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You can buy just the titanium cylinder on midway for like $75.
Here's my M&P 340, the XS tritium front sort of shows. The scandium frame wears kind of ugly but it's honest wear, this one gets carried a lot. It was my office gun for years, now working from home it sits on my desk and goes in a pocket when I leave the house. For backcountry hikes it tends to go to a BUG role when I'm carrying a larger revolver.
Wadcutters in the cylinder, a speed strip of Speer 38 135 short-barrel HP in a pocket. It will never see magnum loads, even 38 +p can hurt after a few rounds. It's not bad with 38 sp 125 gr light loads though, I actually shot part of the first revolver roundup with this gun, switching to a 642 after a while. I really prefer the sights on this one though, and for me those alone were well worth the cost.
Last edited by Salamander; 08-13-2020 at 10:53 PM.
I had that issue with a 640 Pro, trigger was very sluggish on the reset and would stop at the halfway point if you didn’t let you finger forward immediately. On my 442 no issues ever. I think it’s a case by case thing.
It’s one example of why the factory uses the stouter springs; they will work with a larger number of guns with the needs for further tweaking or modification of components.
You cleared out the paint deposits, which are a big help, but in my experience, there are often burrs inside the spring's tunnel on the rebound slide that will impede spring function. A round, hard India stone will be useful for that issue. Good gunsmiths/armorers would also polish the spring's ends and buff the circumference of the spring body to gain best sliding function of the spring inside that tunnel.
Last edited by Wayne Dobbs; 08-14-2020 at 01:08 PM.
Regional Government Sales Manager for Aimpoint, Inc. USA
Co-owner Hardwired Tactical Shooting (HiTS)