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Thread: General Holosun pistol optic thread

  1. #761
    It's been two weeks so I assume you heard back from Holosun, but this happened to me a few months ago, with my 507k. Happened to notice the battery slot screw missing when I got home. The screw from my 509t seemed to fit as a stop-gap (as the 507k is on my carry P365XL), and I contacted Holosun. Like was said they asked for a picture of the serial number and sent me 2-3 screws. I resisted the urge to add a dab of Loctite, I'll just check it occasionally.



    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    Was cleaning my 407k x2 (purchased new about 4 months ago) after a range visit with the P365x today and noticed something missing:

    Attachment 85816

    The hole is where the battery tray screw should be. Not sure where/when it dropped out. The optic still works, as the battery tray is still inserted. This is the original screw / battery, I have not messed with replacing the battery even. I guess I should have torqued it when I got it. By the way, does anyone know the torque spec for the battery tray screw?

    I emailed Holosun CS and asked them where I could purchase a couple spares. I see that Battlewerx also offers a non-OEM hex screw at $5.99 apiece, but I'd like the original if possible.

    Anyone have a good source of these screws, if I can't get any info back from Holosun?

  2. #762
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeyCNY View Post
    It's been two weeks so I assume you heard back from Holosun, but this happened to me a few months ago, with my 507k. Happened to notice the battery slot screw missing when I got home. The screw from my 509t seemed to fit as a stop-gap (as the 507k is on my carry P365XL), and I contacted Holosun. Like was said they asked for a picture of the serial number and sent me 2-3 screws. I resisted the urge to add a dab of Loctite, I'll just check it occasionally.
    I emailed Holosun the same information on 3/14, but haven’t received anything as of yesterday, no.

  3. #763
    Quote Originally Posted by MandoWookie View Post
    Any one have any tips or best practices for mounting these?

    I just got in a HE507C ACSS, and will be mounting it to a PSA Dagger slide that is has the factory RMR cut.

    Couple of questions off the bat, optic included 2 sets of screws, 4 each, one set shorter than the other, why is this? And it looks like they have some kind of blue thread locker already on them, are these screws good to go or should I can them for something better? If so what?

    Also what size are these? My Wheeler torque wrench doesn't include a bit that fits, all are too big.

    I've seen references to prepping the slide, is 91% alchohol adequate for this or is there something better, and any tips for getting the screw holes?

    If there is a thread going over this or a sticky, I couldn't find it.
    Anybody have any guidance? Nothing in the included manual states which screws for which application, and all the info I can find online is for mounting with adapter plates with MOS or the like, not direct to the slide.
    First PMO, dont want to end up with a trashed slide or auto-ejecting optic.
    The included long screws seem too long, and the short screws look like they would barely engage into the slide.
    Feeling like I'm missing something obvious.

  4. #764
    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    I emailed Holosun the same information on 3/14, but haven’t received anything as of yesterday, no.
    I would e-mail again - I contacted info@holosun.com on/around 10/6/21 (I think it was through their website as I can't find the original e-mail in my Sent folder) - they asked for pics of serial #, I sent back the same day and 3 hours later I had a USPS tracking number. Think they took a week to show up, but there were no measurements on the screws.

  5. #765
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    Quote Originally Posted by MandoWookie View Post
    Anybody have any guidance? Nothing in the included manual states which screws for which application, and all the info I can find online is for mounting with adapter plates with MOS or the like, not direct to the slide.
    First PMO, dont want to end up with a trashed slide or auto-ejecting optic.
    The included long screws seem too long, and the short screws look like they would barely engage into the slide.
    Feeling like I'm missing something obvious.
    Since no one is giving you any info, I’ll offer my less experienced suggestions. As to prep, I have seen alcohol work just fine and use it for prep whenever degreasing is required. As to the screws, I didn’t use any of the screws that came with the optic as they didn’t seem to fit the M&P OR I was installing it on; used the screws that came with the M&P so I can’t help you there. I don’t have the 508t anymore but to the best of my memory the screws were a T-15 torx that I had in my toolbox. The factory specs called for 14 lbs and I had no issues with using that. I used a tap to clean out the threads on the slide and a die from the same tap/die set to clean all the factory thread locker off the screws and applied the Loctite 242 (or equivalent blue from other brands) that @NickDrak or @SoCalDep have recommended in their threads. I think as long as you use the appropriate torque and good threadlocker with screws that have at least 1/8 inch of thread engagement, you would be ok. They either hold or they don’t.

  6. #766
    Quote Originally Posted by MandoWookie View Post
    Anybody have any guidance? Nothing in the included manual states which screws for which application, and all the info I can find online is for mounting with adapter plates with MOS or the like, not direct to the slide.
    First PMO, dont want to end up with a trashed slide or auto-ejecting optic.
    The included long screws seem too long, and the short screws look like they would barely engage into the slide.
    Feeling like I'm missing something obvious.
    Have you done a dry run mounting the optic on the slide to see if the long screws are indeed too long? The optic should have come with a small Allen key style tool for mounting. That should at least get you started as far as figuring out if the long screws are too long. On my friend's pistol the short screws were not going work as the barely engaged the threads and the long screws were too long. The long screws had to shortened with a file and sandpaper to make them work.

    There are several threads here on PF that have excellent instructions on how to properly mount a MRDS onto a pistol slide.

    https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....k-those-mounts!

    And check out the replies by SoCalDep in this thread as he goes thru his tried and trued method of mounting optics to pistols slides.
    https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....-saw-this-week
    Last edited by Exiledviking; 03-30-2022 at 12:46 PM.

  7. #767
    Quote Originally Posted by TOTS View Post
    Since no one is giving you any info, I’ll offer my less experienced suggestions. As to prep, I have seen alcohol work just fine and use it for prep whenever degreasing is required. As to the screws, I didn’t use any of the screws that came with the optic as they didn’t seem to fit the M&P OR I was installing it on; used the screws that came with the M&P so I can’t help you there. I don’t have the 508t anymore but to the best of my memory the screws were a T-15 torx that I had in my toolbox. The factory specs called for 14 lbs and I had no issues with using that. I used a tap to clean out the threads on the slide and a die from the same tap/die set to clean all the factory thread locker off the screws and applied the Loctite 242 (or equivalent blue from other brands) that @NickDrak or @SoCalDep have recommended in their threads. I think as long as you use the appropriate torque and good threadlocker with screws that have at least 1/8 inch of thread engagement, you would be ok. They either hold or they don’t.

    Thanks. Finding info about direct mounting with these is difficult.
    All the focus is on the plate systems. Which makes sense I guess, but is frustrating.

  8. #768
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    Quote Originally Posted by MandoWookie View Post
    Thanks. Finding info about direct mounting with these is difficult.
    All the focus is on the plate systems. Which makes sense I guess, but is frustrating.
    Re-reading the above I need to clarify the torque spec is in inch - lbs. ​14 in-lbs should work.

    I think the lack of data was because the torque stipulation, etc, is moreso for the optic body and screws than the slide. I would expect the slide to have a much larger envelope of what is ok due to its size (force distribution into a larger area) and material (assuming stainless steel).
    Last edited by TOTS; 03-30-2022 at 06:27 PM.

  9. #769
    Quote Originally Posted by Exiledviking View Post
    Have you done a dry run mounting the optic on the slide to see if the long screws are indeed too long? The optic should have come with a small Allen key style tool for mounting. That should at least get you started as far as figuring out if the long screws are too long. On my friend's pistol the short screws were not going work as the barely engaged the threads and the long screws were too long. The long screws had to shortened with a file and sandpaper to make them work.

    There are several threads here on PF that have excellent instructions on how to properly mount a MRDS onto a pistol slide.

    https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....k-those-mounts!

    And check out the replies by SoCalDep in this thread as he goes thru his tried and trued method of mounting optics to pistols slides.
    https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....-saw-this-week

    Yeah, I did, the short screws I only extend maybe a couple of threads past the bottom of the optic, looked like they would barely engage. The long screws, on the left hole might be deep enough, but the right it hits the back of (I think is) the extractor?

    The optic cut itself everything lines up. It is the Palmetto Dagger slide with the RMR cut, so I knew I was taking a bit of a walk into the unknown on that end, but the lack of info is on the optic side, which surprises because of how popular these have been.

    I recall having read through those those threads, but couldn't find specifics about what to do with my specific optic. Most of those methods and tips seem to suppose a level of familiarity and hardware availability that the newcomer might not have, I had read those and thought I had a good idea of what I needed to do, but the details are tripping me up.
    I have been burned before thinking I knew more than I knew,( like this time).

    I see Agency sells titanium(meh) screws for their direct milled slides specifically for the Holosun, and it specifies one long, one short.
    So I assume easy solution would be order a set of those and truck on, and hope the Agency cut is close enough to whatever Palmetto uses to not cause issues. Would probably also guarantee I'm getting good quality screws.

  10. #770
    Quote Originally Posted by TOTS View Post
    Re-reading the above I need to clarify the torque spec is in inch - lbs. ​14 in-lbs should work.

    I think the lack of data was because the torque stipulation, etc, is moreso for the optic body and screws than the slide. I would expect the slide to have a much larger envelope of what is ok due to its size (force distribution into a larger area) and material (assuming stainless steel).

    It just annoys me that the manufacturer doesn't include any more instructions than that. Not even what size torx bit to use. It also specifies a torque spec, but seems to assume you use the provided tool, which is not a torque wrench?

    I got the basic Wheeler optic torque wrench, but apparently it doesn't include that specific torx bit. I ordered more, but because I wasnt able to find anywhere that said specifically what holosun uses, I hope it was the right set. Oh well it will come in handy for other optics later.

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