General Holosun pistol optic thread

[LOKNLOD]

There's a lot of up/down/cw/ccw in that post and my brain may need a second run through to orient, but I think what you're seeing is that using the laser boresighter is effectively the exact opposite of how normal zeroing works, I think.

Boresighter, you're holding the gun alignment constant and bringing the dot to match.

"normal" sight-in, you're going to hold the dot/reticle in the same spot on the target and by adjusting the optic, bring the gun's bore in alignment. And that's how the instructions are written.

That's why it feels backwards. Sort of like if you had a gun with all adjustment via the front sight, versus all the adjustment via the rear sight.

[GJM]

Markings on the optic work conventionally meaning if you want to go to the right or up with point of impact, move the arrow in the direction on the optic. The bore sighter is ass backwards, move the optic opposite because you are bringing the optic to the laser rather than moving POI on paper.

[RJ]

There's a lot of up/down/cw/ccw in that post and my brain may need a second run through to orient, but I think what you're seeing is that using the laser boresighter is effectively the exact opposite of how normal zeroing works, I think.

Boresighter, you're holding the gun alignment constant and bringing the dot to match.

"normal" sight-in, you're going to hold the dot/reticle in the same spot on the target and by adjusting the optic, bring the gun's bore in alignment. And that's how the instructions are written.

That's why it feels backwards. Sort of like if you had a gun with all adjustment via the front sight, versus all the adjustment via the rear sight.

Markings on the optic work conventionally meaning if you want to go to the right or up with point of impact, move the arrow in the direction on the optic. The bore sighter is ass backwards, move the optic opposite because you are bringing the optic to the laser rather than moving POI on paper.

Got it, thanks.

Must be me and my left-handed brain. I’ll try it again.

[GJM]

Got it, thanks.

Must be me and my left-handed brain. I’ll try it again.

Hey, you have 50/50 odds even without the manual.

[DpdG]

Rich-

Pretty much all common optics are marked in the direction you want to move the impact- I.e. if group is lower than the desired point of aim, adjust in the indicated upward direction to move the group up. Don't think of where the reticle is moving, only think where you want the group to move.

[RJ]

Rich-

...only think where you want the group to move.

I will. Headed to the range today.

Thanks for the tips. I am hoping to be more successful in zeroing the optic.



This conversation reminds me of the first time I tried to back up my travel trailer with my all-singing, all-dancing brand spanking new $2,500 ProPride Pivot Point Projection weight distribution hitch. I'd stared at it for a long time, trying to work out the linkages between the hitch on my truck and the complex mechanism that ProPride designed into the hitch, which acted both as a directional stabilizer at speed and moved weight forward, onto the front wheels of the truck, to compensate for the 900# of toungue weight of the trailer.

I spent the better part of 45 minutes fruitlessly trying to put the trailer into our storage space, while the manager of the lot hid her face and smiled. My wife was livid. It's one of the few times we have had an animated conversation about how to backup the trailer.

After a few months of towing full time, I finally worked out the simple advice given to me by the husband of the lot owner, a retired over the road trucker: "Turn the bottom of the wheel in the direction you want the back of the trailer to go." Once I started doing that, I could put that 55 feet of truck and trailer into spots with 6" clearance on either side. Damn Engineers. Always gotta overthink things.

[RJ]

I will. Headed to the range today.

Thanks for the tips. I am hoping to be more successful in zeroing the optic.

Much better day at the range this morning. I set the Holosun optic brightness to "Manual" and had no problems seeing the reticle (circle plus dot). I am likely going to just leave it this way, I find the constant hunting for brightness level kinda annoying, at the moment.

I started with the settings I'd put on using the laser boresighter last night. Then I started walking rounds to the center (American Eagle 115 range ammo) until I got zero with live fire. I was a total of 4 clicks low, live fire. I never did touch the windage. I just followed the simple logic / explanation in the above posts by @GJM and @DpdG. I just kept clicking "in the direction" I wanted the groups to move. Simple.

Results were good. A score of 96-3X on The Test passes one of my 2021 shooting metrics. And getting 100-6X slow fire at 7 rounds is good for me. I finished up with a 25 yard, slow fire two handed group of 10 on a B-8 repair center. I held this a bit high, but still got 10 on paper for an 83-1X, not bad for me. I might do better focusing on trigger control and a normal hold, but I was done for the day with that magazine and decided to call it a day.



I am a lot happier with where I ended up. I can still work on trigger control but the optic is more or less centered up, I reckon. Thanks again guys.

[YVK]

Do you all put any loctite on that tiny screw that keeps battery shelf in place?

[JCN]

Do you all put any loctite on that tiny screw that keeps battery shelf in place?

I personally don’t. The battery covers fit so well that I don’t think they would move even if there wasn’t a screw (so I don’t think there’s much vibration load to work the screws out?

I don’t put high round counts on my Holosuns but I have on the Romeo3Max which have a similar side battery cover and never any issues with just appropriate torque no loctite.

[YVK]

@JCN, thanks. That thing is so tiny, I had my reservations about loctiting it.

Mounted a 509T on my Glock 26, we'll see how things go with it.