Presuming they’ll still be good by whatever year that happens...Originally Posted by GJM
Presuming they’ll still be good by whatever year that happens...
We went with Ameriglo GL-333 and Gl-452. These are night sight versions with one having a green ring around the front sight and the other an orange. We are in trial phase of testing these for our pd. There is debate out there on not having a similar color as the dot but so far, with very limited experience, i don't see it being an issue.
Also, on the two 509t's we sent back, Holosun is replacing those and we should have the new units today i believe. We had great customer service and a two week turn around on the replacement. Very pleased.
I went with ameriglo GL-611. White ring around front and solid black on back.
I got a 509T. It worked in sunlight but not with battery. inserted 2nd battery, still nothing. Called Holosun, they said try returning it first, so I sent it back to optics planet on 02-09-21. No word yet.
It fit fine on the CHPWS plate which fit fine on the G34 mos.
Isn't the plate that comes with the 509t steel? I didn't bother trying it on the mos.
The 2 screws that cam with the 509 would not work on the mos holes.
From what I’ve read, the 509T comes with a RMR adapter, but not an MOS plate.
That is correct, we went with C&H plate however and have been very happy.
Grabbed a 507c v1 for cheap on the AR15.com EE. Going to play with it on an offset mount on a couple carbines, but if I don't like it in that capacity i'm sure I can find a handgun for it to live on.
Is the C&H plate the only solution out there to mount a 507k to a Glock 43X/48 MOS?
The slide on the slimline MOS can also be modified to eliminate use of the plate.
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
Thanks GJM. I’m late to the realization that the G43X/G48 MOS aren’t like my G34 MOS, but basically Factory milled for the RMSc footprint, as someone dryly observed in a thread I saw recently. Kinda a mindset change for me. I was like D’oh!
Pondering future options for how/whether to get my current G48 non-MOS milled, or just buy a G48 MOS. Seems like least cost impact is milling my G48 for a RMSc, but have them leave off the two nubs (correct?) so I can mount a 407/507k direct, if I decide to stay with Holosun for CCW.
I’m headed (finally!) to the local square range tomorrow with the G34. Looking forward to shooting it with the 507c v2 at last.
So I took my Glock 34 MOS with Holosun 507c v2 and FCD plate to the range today. No issues with the Glock; it still continues to chug along.
I had two perplexing issues during the session. One I resolved when I got home, but one still bugs me, and I need some help on.
First, I had left the optic on "auto" brightness. Due to my own inexperience, I wasn't prepared to deal with the washout of the sight in the ambient lighting conditions of the stall I was shooting in. I did not take the Operating Manual with me, and I could not get a WiFi or Cell signal in the range to allow me to look up how to turn the optic from "auto" to manual. I was pretty much unable to see the optic reticle, full stop, throughout my session, which was very frustrating. I read the manual when I got home, and of course you just have to hold the "+" key down for 4+ seconds to switch operating modes from auto to manual and back.
Second, as I was attempting to zero, I was getting inconsistent results; at least, inconsistent with what I expected when I "clicked" the adjustment tool. I gave up adjusting the sight since I was burning ammo to no good.
I got home and reread the manual on how elevation and windage work. This is what's in the manual:
As to what's actually depicted on the optic, the elevation is marked "U" and a counterclockwise circle, and on the side, the windage is marked "R" and another counter clockwise arrow.
What the manual doesn't seem to say is what happens to the laser beam as you click the adjustments? It may be a case of semantics, but I don't think the manuals method of explaining makes any sense to me; in fact, it seems to be backwards to how the sight works?
Here's what I did at home. I got my laser boresighter and dropped it in the bore. I then turned on the sight at a comfortable bright viewing setting. I then rested the pistol on it's butt and framed a sight picture, so I could see both the reticle AND the laser dot. I then made adjustments in windage and elevation until the reticle moved on top of the laser dot. I mean, they were absolutely on top of each other.
Looking at the adjustments now, with that in mind, what seems to be happening is that the Up/Down adjustment will MOVE THE DOT up and down, compared to the pistol. In other words, if you are seeing fall of shot low, you have to move the dot, down, by turning it clockwise.
Same for the windage; if you are seeing fall of shot to the right, then you have to MOVE THE DOT right, or counterclockwise, in order to line up the dot with the bore.
With my logic, if I was shooting 2" low, and 1" to the right, then I would move the dot using the adjustments by turning the elevation CLOCKWISE (to move the dot down) and the windage COUNTERCLOCKWISE (to move the dot to the right). If I then sighted on the new dot position, my shots should fall "under" the dot.
If you go back and look at the Holosun manual with this in mind, the manual is exactly the other way around??
Bear in mind I'm relatively new to guns, and completely new to optics. I feel like I'm missing something fundamental here. I will say though, that based on the little procedure I just did here at home, I'm very confident in my interpretation that the adjustments on this optic do in fact "move the dot" and I will be taking that concept into my next session, and not rely on the manual, at all.
Can anyone help me out as to why I might not be understanding the Holosun manual or optic zeroing in general? Thanks!
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