Official SIG Rattler owner/fan-boy/nut-hugger thread

[entropy]

*Not Rattler* but .300aac pistol centric....

I’ve resisted the usual route of hanging ever-increasing numbers of doo-dads off mine. I recently even dumped the BUIS. While I think having a light on it would be true to form and beneficial, HOW to do it and with WHAT is the dilemma for me. I have a very slim and close fitting Proctor mount sitting in the spare parts bin. I also have a ProTac 1L sitting on the dresser that could probably be put to use with it. Right now, everything sits nicely in the messenger bag. I don’t want to start bulking things out.

[Mike C]

*Not Rattler* but .300aac pistol centric....

I’ve resisted the usual route of hanging ever-increasing numbers of doo-dads off mine. I recently even dumped the BUIS. While I think having a light on it would be true to form and beneficial, HOW to do it and with WHAT is the dilemma for me. I have a very slim and close fitting Proctor mount sitting in the spare parts bin. I also have a ProTac 1L sitting on the dresser that could probably be put to use with it. Right now, everything sits nicely in the messenger bag. I don’t want to start bulking things out.

I have zero issues dumping the buis on this gun and have. I small light laser combo with a red dot is plenty. I’ve tried the XVL2 on it but it is just too big for the gun for me and no good way to mount it since I’m running a QRP mount. Presently thinking about XC2 as RevRob is or has. Even though switching won’t be ideal it serves as a backup to RDS in a small foot print plus battery commonality. Win win.

[Corse]

Interesting day shaking down the rattler. The 125gr supers and 190 subs both are zeroed at 25yrds, well the 190s are 3+ inches right, so not really zeroed. I did think it was interesting they had the same elevation.

I did have issues with possibly the mag used for testing, lots of failures to lock back in either gas setting, and also a couple where it did lock back and the bolt release was very difficult to depress. I’ll have to try different mags to see if this is the issue.

[Norville]

Interesting day shaking down the rattler. The 125gr supers and 190 subs both are zeroed at 25yrds, well the 190s are 3+ inches right, so not really zeroed. I did think it was interesting they had the same elevation.

I did have issues with possibly the mag used for testing, lots of failures to lock back in either gas setting, and also a couple where it did lock back and the bolt release was very difficult to depress. I’ll have to try different mags to see if this is the issue.

I shoot only supers, unsuppressed. I had a couple of instances of the bolt not locking open early on in the “-“ setting. Switching to “+” cured it. After a couple of hundred rounds, the “-“ setting works perfectly. Apparently there is a break in period.

No experience, but the word is subs will likely only cycle with a suppressor.

[Corse]

I shoot only supers, unsuppressed. I had a couple of instances of the bolt not locking open early on in the “-“ setting. Switching to “+” cured it. After a couple of hundred rounds, the “-“ setting works perfectly. Apparently there is a break in period.

No experience, but the word is subs will likely only cycle with a suppressor.

Thanks. I’ll run it some more and see what happens.

[Corse]

Got a chance to run the rattler some more. It does seem to be “breaking in” but I think lancer 300 blk mags are working better than the regular magpul 556 pmags though.

[Pit]

Interesting. I hadn’t seen anything about the SB FS1913. How much further does it extend than the stock mount+TailHook combo?

I tried the SB FS1913 prior to getting the Sig Folding PCB. The FS1913 is slightly longer as well as a bit thicker than the Sig version. I also notice the "slotted bar" also had more flex in it when running drills. Additionally the attachment is not a robust as the Sig's if in a close encounter needing the weapon to be used in a striking movement. Here's some old pics of the FS1913 on my Sig pistol. JMO

JW

[flyrodr]

Well, never one to leave well enough alone, I decided to "ready" my Rattler for a suppressor. I had tried a Dead Air Wolfman on a B&T APC9 Pro, and really liked it. A call to DA confirmed the Wolfman would work with .300BO as well as the 9mm. Remove the existing can's back piece, screw on the 3-lug adapter for the B&T, and similarly use the Key Micro Adapter for the Rattler (with the DA Micro Brake installed in place of the stock flash hider).

With the Wolfman awaiting ATF approval, I began gathering the adapters. Turns out Dead Air stuff is, along with many other gun-related parts, scarce. Soon enough, though, all is here, or on the way (with the can still "in waiting").

Having only used a suppressor on a .22 with a easily-removable cap, I read up on how to remove the Rattler hider. As expected, the internet had no shortage of advice. "Hold the gun between your knees, and the hider screws right off." "There's no 'adhesive'." "Sig uses Rocksett." "You have to soak the barrel in hot/boiling water to loosen the Rocksett; heat won't do it." "It's right-hand thread." "No, it's left-hand thread."

So, I called Sig. A nice guy there said they squirted some penetrating oil on the threads, waited a while, and the hider screwed off pretty easily, usually. And if that didn't work, put the barrel in the freezer for an hour or so. Rocksett resists heat, but gets brittle in cold. It'll break loose easily, usually. Well, "usually" didn't work. Either one of them.

Next, I decided to remove the barrel, lest I damage some of the aluminum parts. Easy enough. But then I found out there's no good surface to clamp in a vise. Oh, yes, another recommendation was to use a reaction rod. A gunsmith friend (who is hugely entertained by my misadventures) suggested I not try that, less I mess up the barrel alignment pins, or something like that.

Eventually, a combination of aluminum vise jaw shields, and a couple of wraps of gaffer tape around the barrel chamber end, gave me a solid grip in my vise (I'm talking a 5-in. bench vise, not a trifling one). Still, hider wouldn't budge.

Went to the boiling water idea. Nothing, other than I 'bout burned my fingers. Those lessons learned as 3-year-olds, but not remembered.

Was about to surrender, and hand the barrel over to my 'smith, but after all the sweat equity invested, I decided to give it one more serious try. Clamped the barrel back into the vise (taped, with guards). Held the wrench tight against the hider's flats, and gave the other end of the wrench a couple of good whacks with a 3-lb ball peen hammer. And it moved! Another whack, and it was loose, unscrewing freely. Downhill after that. Even the indexing. New Dead Air Micro Brake installed, and DA Key Micro Adapter awaiting release of suppressor.

Oh, the final confirmation of my gunsmithing skills. As instructed, I grabbed a brass rod to ensure the new brake was properly aligned. Dropped in muzzle about an inch, and went no further. Measured it, and it was 0.340", well under 0.356". Dropped it in chamber end, and no go. And then . . . then . . . the awakening: "Oh yeah", I thought. "The Rattler isn't a 9mm". A right-sized rod confirmed the apparent visual alignment.

Still, no dings, no scars, all good.

My advice on gunsmithing . . . well, don't listen to me!

[rob_s]

FWIW, rather than whacking with a hammer (and I was a whacked for years) get yourself a long piece of pipe that you can slide over the end of the wrench to give yourself better leverage. I used to have a thin wrench just for flash hiders and a section of about 3-4’ of pipe with one end smashed flat to fit more tightly over the wrench.

The last piece for anyone else reading this, is to make sure your bench and vice are actually as sturdy as you might think they are. I’ve had benches flex when cranking down on the pipe/wrench combo.

If I worked on ARs for a living I’d have someone make me a concrete bench with concrete legs. Or buy one of those concrete picnic tables you see at parks. And I’d drill an bolt my vice to that, and also use it for banging out FSB pins.

[shane45]

I would agree that leverage is good, and im not saying you should wail away, but I do find that the vibration/shock caused by the impact can really aid in breaking it free. The other key is the work piece does not move!