Installing a barrel on a S&W revolver generally can be done without a lathe, but by the time you buy (or build) the proper tools and fixtures you will have spent more than a good gunsmith would charge to do it for you. And if the barrel does need to be altered to fit, (for instance, if it is too long for the cylinder to close), then you will need a lathe, tooling, and the knowledge of how to use it.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/869262768
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/868449073
Maybe get one cylinder chambered for 9mm in moon clips... (the joys of enabling)
Last edited by jandbj; 05-30-2020 at 09:55 PM.
I rebarreled an M 10 with a 3" barrel, i hand filed and stoned the rear of the barrel until it fit and had an even gap of acceptable size. Its slow and tedious, but not difficult. I had a local gunsmith with a forcing cone reamer redo the forcing cone after fitting the barrel, it was very reasonable.Originally Posted by oregon45
I made barrel blocks from hardwood flooring scraps, and made a barrel wrench from angle iron and wood blocks. Clamped the frame vertically in the vise, torqued in the barrel to index as close as I could tell by eye and fitted the gap. It needs a little fine tuning, but hits within about 1 1/2" windage wise at about 20 yards I believe. The replacement barrel hand torqued to exactly the same point as the original barrel, so i wasnt concerned about whether it would index close to OK and have adequate torque. Its not always that simple, but several Ive done have been fairly simple.
Last edited by Malamute; 06-02-2020 at 08:12 PM.
“Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
― Theodore Roosevelt
Got it today. Needs a lot of work busting rust but looks promising.
Numrics still haven't shipped the barrel but im not sure if they're open yet
I plan on trimming the hammer, cleaning out the internals. Its old enough im not sure i need to stone anything. I also might trim the trigger guard a little.
The wood grips are pretty warn which is fine. I might pick up a bk grip adaptor or just use a spare pachymer compact pro on it.
I plan on giving this to my son for his second birthday in july but using it as my fanny pack gun untill he's ready to carry it. That way he'll get a gun with a lot of memories of me and him trail running with it.
Im on the fence about refinishing it.
Last edited by 03RN; 06-03-2020 at 04:51 PM.
Pistolsmithing by George C Nonte Jr is a good book on old school methods. eBay has several books listed.
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Their website says that they are currently shipping orders placed during the week of March 23rd.
If we have to march off into the next world, let us walk there on the bodies of our enemies.
Yup, i looked right after i posted.
The trigger was pretty ok as i got it. Today i disassembled it and cleaned the accumulated gunk off everything. I also stoned the sides/bottom of all the moving parts.
The trigger guard is already missing a lot of bluing so it wont be a big deal when i Jordanize it.
Im not sure if i want to cut the spur completely off or leave a nub.
The Model 19 I acquired has a narrow and smoOth/ rounded trigger. I hate that. I ordered one like I have in my 65s. So that’s how I know their shipping delays.
If we have to march off into the next world, let us walk there on the bodies of our enemies.
Bobbed the hammer and narrowed the trigger guard today.
I did reblue the hammer but dont think im going to refinish anything else.
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