Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 23

Thread: 642-1 Trigger Gets Ultra Heavy During Shooting Session

  1. #1
    Hammertime
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Desert Southwest

    642-1 Trigger Gets Ultra Heavy During Shooting Session

    I have a 642-1 I am attempting to learn. It has the Apex spring kit installed.

    During dry fire it is great. I find that when shooting 50 rounds ammo, that by the end of the box, when I pull the trigger, the cylinder turns and the trigger gets to the break point, but feels like it just locks up and runs into a wall. If I unload the gun, the trigger feels the same. Very tight grip will make it spin, but it is heavy enough I am worried about breaking something, the trigger must go up to 40-50lbs.

    I suspect it is heat related because it will resolve itself by the time I get home from the range.

    Is this normal behavior?

    In addition, I noticed the last target I shot that the holes started out nice and round, but by the end they were getting oval and shredded which I assume is key holing, but again, it only seems to happen as the gun heats up. I have no experience with S&W revolvers and in my limited Ruger LCR experience they just run and run without drama. I understand that a revolver basically only needs to get through a cylinder or two reliably, but is it unrealistic to expect it to go through 50 rounds of rapid fire?

    Thanks, target below along with comparisons from LCR, LCP and LCR .22.

    Name:  A33FE822-2832-4A6C-945F-B048140B91E6.jpg
Views: 431
Size:  60.3 KB

  2. #2
    I Demand Pie Lex Luthier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Northern Tier
    Whoa. That is not at all in my experience with any J frame, of either steel or alloy frame construction.
    "If I ever needed to hunt in a tuxedo, then this would be the rifle I'd take." - okie john

    "Not being able to govern events, I govern myself." - Michel De Montaigne

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Doc_Glock View Post
    I have a 642-1 I am attempting to learn. It has the Apex spring kit installed.

    During dry fire it is great. I find that when shooting 50 rounds ammo, that by the end of the box, when I pull the trigger, the cylinder turns and the trigger gets to the break point, but feels like it just locks up and runs into a wall. If I unload the gun, the trigger feels the same. Very tight grip will make it spin, but it is heavy enough I am worried about breaking something, the trigger must go up to 40-50lbs.

    I suspect it is heat related because it will resolve itself by the time I get home from the range.

    Is this normal behavior?

    In addition, I noticed the last target I shot that the holes started out nice and round, but by the end they were getting oval and shredded which I assume is key holing, but again, it only seems to happen as the gun heats up. I have no experience with S&W revolvers and in my limited Ruger LCR experience they just run and run without drama. I understand that a revolver basically only needs to get through a cylinder or two reliably, but is it unrealistic to expect it to go through 50 rounds of rapid fire?

    Thanks, target below along with comparisons from LCR, LCP and LCR .22.

    Name:  A33FE822-2832-4A6C-945F-B048140B91E6.jpg
Views: 431
Size:  60.3 KB
    That's way out of the norm.

    Try the same amount of ammo over a longer period of time. Let the gun cool between strings.

    I'd almost be inclined to look for cracks in the frame, especially just under the forcing cone.


    Okie John
    “The reliability of the 30-06 on most of the world’s non-dangerous game is so well established as to be beyond intelligent dispute.” Finn Aagaard
    "Don't fuck with it" seems to prevent the vast majority of reported issues." BehindBlueI's

  4. #4
    A co worker had one that did that. He sent it back and it was fixed but it’s been so long ago I don’t recall what they did to it.

  5. #5
    Sounds like you have something interfering with cylinder rotation. That would cause hard trigger and keyholing if it's firing without the cylinder in position and locked by the cylinder stop. I'd check for powder granules under the extractor star. Failing that I'd have it fully function checked by a qualified gunsmith.

    ETA: No 50 rounds in a short time shouldn't do that. When I shot revolver division we'd have COFs with 32 rounds which was shot in a matter of seconds. The cylinder gets warm towards the end of those to no ill effect.

  6. #6
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Gotham Adjacent
    You’ve got some kind of timing issue. Powder under the extractor star is a good thought. I’d check the hand and make sure it is clean. Is there substantial lead build up around the forcing cone?

    Does it happen with every chamber or do you get 3-4 smooth clicks and then a heavy one?

    What ammo are you shooting?

  7. #7
    Hammertime
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Desert Southwest
    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post
    You’ve got some kind of timing issue. Powder under the extractor star is a good thought. I’d check the hand and make sure it is clean. Is there substantial lead build up around the forcing cone?

    Does it happen with every chamber or do you get 3-4 smooth clicks and then a heavy one?

    What ammo are you shooting?
    Extractor Star is fine. I will try to pay attention to which chamber it happens in because I don’t think it is every chamber.

    Lead build up was significant inside the barrel and I spent way too much time getting it off tonight. This is after only 150 rounds of 158 grain PPU semi wadcutter ammo. I am sure the lead was clogging the rifling which would explain the key holes. However the area around the forcing cone was okay. I can see how some lead build up there could cause issues and will watch it carefully.

    Is it okay to blast out the bore with some jacketed bullets if the lead starts to build up again. I have never cleaned the bore once in my semi autos but I only shoot FMJ in them. No experience with this lead build up thing. It’s nasty.

  8. #8
    If you are brand new to the gun and revolvers.....make sure you are pressing the trigger straight back to your chest and not pulling the trigger toward your shoulders.
    Just a Hairy Special Snowflake supply clerk with no field experience, shooting an Asymetric carbine as a Try Hard. Snarky and easily butt hurt. Favorite animal is the Cape Buffalo....likely indicative of a personality disorder.
    "If I had a grandpa, he would look like Delbert Belton".

  9. #9
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    South Louisiana
    Quote Originally Posted by Doc_Glock View Post
    Extractor Star is fine. I will try to pay attention to which chamber it happens in because I don’t think it is every chamber.

    Lead build up was significant inside the barrel and I spent way too much time getting it off tonight. This is after only 150 rounds of 158 grain PPU semi wadcutter ammo. I am sure the lead was clogging the rifling which would explain the key holes. However the area around the forcing cone was okay. I can see how some lead build up there could cause issues and will watch it carefully.

    Is it okay to blast out the bore with some jacketed bullets if the lead starts to build up again. I have never cleaned the bore once in my semi autos but I only shoot FMJ in them. No experience with this lead build up thing. It’s nasty.
    Sounds like the ammo is the issue. Get the barrel as clean as possible and check the clearance between the rear of the barrel and the front of the cylinder; there's usually only .005-.010" clearance there and it doesn't take much to create drag. Then get a few boxes of FMJ practice ammo and see how it works.

    This is a common problem caused by lead bullets that are sized too small. Correctly-sized swaged bullets don't cause this; I've run >700 rounds of my handloads with correctly-sized swaged lead bullets through my M67 at +P velocity in one day and only needed to brush out the chambers and under the extractor star.

  10. #10
    sounds like a new gun?

    the keyholing or whatever it's doing might not be related to the trigger pull issue

    who installed the spring kit?

    you might have a broken/bent hammer or trigger stud

    if it is heat related, cylinder face may not be square, but 50 rounds of factory ammo won't heat a 642 up to any great extent.

    clean it and check under the side plate

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •