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Thread: New Sharpmaker- Comments and Questions

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by mrozowjj View Post
    I just got one of these and I can't get an edge worth a damn on anything with it. It's supposed to be fool-proof so I guess I'll put on my clown shoes because I spent a good 30 minutes with it and I think the edge might be worse than it was before. *sigh*
    Use a sharpie and see if you are sharpening the edge.

    What steel are you sharpening. I have a Gerber from the 70's that requires diamond stones to sharpen and hardly will hold an edge after much work.

    Read my post above. If the primary cutting edge is set wide and you are using too narrow stone angle you are sharpening the shoulders and not the edge.

    Use a sharpie.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Navin Johnson View Post
    Use a sharpie and see if you are sharpening the edge.

    What steel are you sharpening. I have a Gerber from the 70's that requires diamond stones to sharpen and hardly will hold an edge after much work.

    Read my post above. If the primary cutting edge is set wide and you are using too narrow stone angle you are sharpening the shoulders and not the edge.

    Use a sharpie.
    Good point. I tried to sharpen a custom knife with my Sharpmaker and got nowhere. When I talked to the maker he told me the steel he used needed diamond stones. I took it to him and he took care of it with his Wicked Edge setup. I’ve since got a Lansky diamond set so I can maintain it myself.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Navin Johnson View Post
    Use a sharpie and see if you are sharpening the edge.

    What steel are you sharpening. I have a Gerber from the 70's that requires diamond stones to sharpen and hardly will hold an edge after much work.

    Read my post above. If the primary cutting edge is set wide and you are using too narrow stone angle you are sharpening the shoulders and not the edge.

    Use a sharpie.
    I tried a sharpie. I started with a knife with S30v and nada. I thought maybe it was too hard of a steel so I tried it again with some good old 1095 and again nothing.

    I've taken knife making classes before and never had any issue putting a good edge on with a belt grinder but stones elude me. I tried plain old DMT stones, then some guided system then this and no dice. Even got a wharencliff to see if I can do it on an edge with no curve and man nada.

    I think I'm going to buy that Ken onion edition work sharp thing.

  4. #24
    banana republican blues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrozowjj View Post
    I tried a sharpie. I started with a knife with S30v and nada. I thought maybe it was too hard of a steel so I tried it again with some good old 1095 and again nothing.

    I've taken knife making classes before and never had any issue putting a good edge on with a belt grinder but stones elude me. I tried plain old DMT stones, then some guided system then this and no dice. Even got a wharencliff to see if I can do it on an edge with no curve and man nada.

    I think I'm going to buy that Ken onion edition work sharp thing.
    The Sharpmaker is best used for maintaining an already sharp or sharpish knife, imho. Reprofiling and serious steel removal are not its forte.
    It is a very versatile tool, but it does have its limitations.

    I find it useful to do the stock removal with coarse diamond hones and apply the finishing touches with the Sharpmaker if desired. I have a variety of bench stones in Aluminum Oxide, Sillcon Carbide, Diamond etc, as well as oil and water stones. Right tool for the right job.

    A lot of folks seem to be happy with he Work Sharp. (I don't own any power tools for sharpening.)
    There's nothing civil about this war.

    Read: Harrison Bergeron

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by mrozowjj View Post
    I tried a sharpie. I started with a knife with S30v and nada. I thought maybe it was too hard of a steel so I tried it again with some good old 1095 and again nothing.

    I've taken knife making classes before and never had any issue putting a good edge on with a belt grinder but stones elude me. I tried plain old DMT stones, then some guided system then this and no dice. Even got a wharencliff to see if I can do it on an edge with no curve and man nada.

    I think I'm going to buy that Ken onion edition work sharp thing.
    What happened with the sharpie? Did it remove it off the actual edge or off of the shoulder of the knife? What type of knife was it?

    The sharp maker cannot sharpen a knife that is ground wider than 20 degrees per side or 40 degrees per side without modifications to technique.

    I'd bet all the knives have really wide bevels.
    "Shooting is 90% mental. The rest is in your head." -Nils

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCS View Post
    What happened with the sharpie? Did it remove it off the actual edge or off of the shoulder of the knife? What type of knife was it?

    The sharp maker cannot sharpen a knife that is ground wider than 20 degrees per side or 40 degrees per side without modifications to technique.

    I'd bet all the knives have really wide bevels.
    Sharpie was removed where you'd want it to be removed.

    Knives were a Benchmade Bugout (S30V) and a Ka-Bare Becker BK11 neck knife 1095 Cro-Van. Benchmade says 30-35 degree edge angle and well Sharpmaker only does 20 or 40 so I tried one and then the other with no luck.

  7. #27
    banana republican blues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrozowjj View Post
    Sharpie was removed where you'd want it to be removed.

    Knives were a Benchmade Bugout (S30V) and a Ka-Bare Becker BK11 neck knife 1095 Cro-Van. Benchmade says 30-35 degree edge angle and well Sharpmaker only does 20 or 40 so I tried one and then the other with no luck.
    Sharpmaker does 15 or 20 degrees per side (30 or 40 degrees included angle).
    There's nothing civil about this war.

    Read: Harrison Bergeron

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by blues View Post
    Sharpmaker does 15 or 20 degrees per side (30 or 40 degrees included angle).
    Yeah that's right. Sorry for the mistake. Either way the rest is accurate.

  9. #29
    So try raising a burr and then cutting it off. Even on brown stones one should be able to raise a burr with 3-7 passes on the same side of the blade on a CLEAN or ONCE USED FLAT. If you can't get a burr you are not sharpening the edge.

    If no burr then increase the angle. If you cannot tell there is a burr then drag the edge up your arm (spine towards your face) and you will feel the burr side scratching.

    be very precise in your angles with your hand. If one is sloppy with the SM you will end up with a convex edge.

    Only need a small burr to create a reasonable edge.

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by mrozowjj View Post
    Sharpie was removed where you'd want it to be removed.

    Knives were a Benchmade Bugout (S30V) and a Ka-Bare Becker BK11 neck knife 1095 Cro-Van. Benchmade says 30-35 degree edge angle and well Sharpmaker only does 20 or 40 so I tried one and then the other with no luck.
    I’m have a bugout and just sharpened it yesterday on a sharpmaker so I know it handles their s30v. If the sharpie is coming off the edge then it may just take a some more passes. I know it can be frustrating when it doesn’t work. Sharpening is tricky. In theory it seems simple. However, it can be difficult to figure it out.
    "Shooting is 90% mental. The rest is in your head." -Nils

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