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Thread: New Sharpmaker- Comments and Questions

  1. #11
    I've been using the Spyderco Sharpmaker (and now the Gauntlet) as well as the Lansky V sharpeners for the last 15 or so years.

    Suggestions:
    -Use the 'countdown method' to sharpen.

    5 passes on left side of blade, followed by 5 on the right side.

    4 passes left, 4 passes right

    ....

    1 pass left, 1 pass right

    I found this more reliably produces a razor sharp edge then the factory suggested alternating 1:1 pass method.

    For a new knife, I start at 10 strokes for the countdown to get the edge accustomed to the angle (20 degree) of the sharpener.

    For subsequent maintainence, I start the countdown at 3-5. Thats usually plenty to restore a 'sharpish' - cuting paper, but roughly - edge to shaving sharp.

    - I would not suggest over sharpening.

    I use a simple test for when to sharpen, called 'the plastic test.'

    A sharp knife should be able to cleanly cut the plastic film on a tissue box / case of water by simply dragging the tip across the plastic, using only the weight of the blade.

    Once its no longer able to do that, I do a touch up. Typically for me thats around 1x a month.

  2. #12
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
    Quote Originally Posted by vcdgrips View Post

    I have custom Benchmade partially serrated S30V Mini Barrage that was a gift such that I might default to sending that one in to Benchmade when the time comes to sharpen it given the serrations and black colored/engraved blade.
    I've sent my Mini-Grip to Benchmade twice for their free sharpening service. I would say that, after learning a little bit more about knife sharpening, the edge that I can now put on it myself, using my inexpensive ($30) Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener, surpasses the one that was on the blade when it returned from BM. And that includes the serrated part of my Mini-Grip. Bear in mind I am a complete noob to knife sharpening.

    It would not surprise me that, as many knives as I am sure the sharpeners at BM do on a daily basis, that they put it in some kind of sharpening machine jig, give it a few strokes and call it good. The blade just look kind of "rough" (albeit, sharp) when they arrive back to me. Just an observation, and taking nothing away from Benchmade's service; it is free obviously.

  3. #13
    The Sharpmaker should be called the sharpkeeper. It does a great job of keeping a knife sharp but if it gets too dull then it can be a bear to sharpen up.
    Be careful not to round off the tip. It seems to be a common problem with the Sharpmaker.
    We could isolate Russia totally from the world and maybe they could apply for membership after 2000 years.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by sparkyv View Post
    Did you get there with the sharpmaker or another system? I get there with the Lansky. SCARY sharp!
    That was done with a sharp maker with the UF rods and a strop.
    "Shooting is 90% mental. The rest is in your head." -Nils

  5. #15
    Site Supporter md8232's Avatar
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    Nov 2013
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    In the Hills of Arkansas
    Is there any advantage to the Gauntlet if you already have a Sharpmaker?
    How can you govern a country which has two hundred and forty-six varieties of cheese?

    Charles de Gaulle

  6. #16
    banana republican blues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by md8232 View Post
    Is there any advantage to the Gauntlet if you already have a Sharpmaker?
    The Sharpmaker is more versatile because of the two angle settings available. However, if you have no coarser option, purchasing either the optional diamond or CBN rods for your Sharpmaker will make it more versatile.

    https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Diam...g%2C203&sr=1-1

    Or, more economical and quicker, would be to purchase a diamond plate from DMT or Ultra Sharp on amazon.com if you are comfortable doing the coarser work on a bench stone and finishing on the Sharpmaker.

    https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D8C-Dia-S...28&s=hi&sr=1-2

    https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Sharp-D...g%2C188&sr=8-8

    Either would broaden your options.
    Last edited by blues; 05-03-2020 at 08:22 AM.
    There's nothing civil about this war.

    Read: Harrison Bergeron

  7. #17
    OP:. Learning about bevels and edge angles will do you more good than tricks on the sharp maker per se.

    If I gave you five knives at 30°, and five knives at 40°, I doubt you could tell the difference if you use them randomly.

    Softer steels tend to do better with wider bevels .....harder steels can tolerate a thinner bevel without chipping or rolling.

    Thinness behind the edge or in other words blade geometry does more for cutting than the actual edge does in most cases. Reasonably dull kitchen knives still cut fairly well because they're so thin.

    10 passes on the whitestones everyday will just create a weak edge. If the steel has a tendency to roll you will just keep bending that rolled edge back and forth making it softer and weaker. You can get it lined up and it will be very sharp but the first cut into any type of tough material will roll the edge very quickly.

    You need a 350 grit-ish diamond bench stone to set your bevels. (Lower angle than you want the cutting edge to be) then start to apex the edge at that grit or maybe one finer. Finish on the brown stones for an aggressive edge.... Go to white if you want a more refined edge.

    Once the edge begins to apex on a 700 grit bench stone I move to the brown stones and make two or three passes per side and I'm done.

    To touch up your blade and in the process remove the old weak steel..... Make three or four passes on one side with the brown stones until you raise a burr on the opposite side of the blade..... That burr is the old weak steel.... Then make about two passes on the burs side of the blade on the brown stones and you'll have a fresh edge. This method takes some feel and can vary with different steels but you can essentially put a new edge on the knife in about a minute or two

    When I say edge apexing that means it's starting to get sharp for lack of a better way of explaining it. If you take a blade all the way to sharp at one grit and then do it again at another grit you will create a weak edge again. So you will need to remove the burr as described above.

    The above mentioned countdown method works because you go back and forth so many times that you will eventually remove the weak steel. However your sharp maker rods will need to be cleaned after that one sharpening as they will be very loaded with metal. I like to use a diamond bench stone to do most of my metal removal so I don't have to clean the rods every time I sharpen a knife.

    And yes the sharp maker rods need to be cleaned often. I usually put a little water or glass cleaner on them to help keep them from getting loaded with metal ....understanding they cut a bit slower with lube on them.

    Watch cliff stamp videos on YouTube.... He's a very knowledgeable steel guy and sharpener guy.....his advice to cut into the stone to take off the old weak metal should only be done if you have a very damaged edge otherwise you remove a lot of steel and takes a long time to apex afterwards.

    Sharpening is easy once you learn how to do it but it will take time to learn how to do it. A dull VG-10 knife can be re-beveled and sharpened in about 3 or 4 minutes with the tools and technique I mentioned above.

    Have fun!
    Last edited by Navin Johnson; 05-03-2020 at 10:10 AM.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by md8232 View Post
    Is there any advantage to the Gauntlet if you already have a Sharpmaker?
    I have both, prefer the Gauntlet.

    Much better stone profile, which I find makes it easier to sharpen, especially in terms of keeping the very tip of the knife super sharp.

  9. #19
    Site Supporter
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    Feb 2011
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    Midwest
    Broke down and bought the ultra fine rods from Spyderco direct as they give a solid LEO/MIL/GOVT discount. Rather sharp knives have gotten even sharper. I now have a shaved patch on my left lower forearm.

    I have been using the count down method (6-1) as well with success.

    I would call the system a 95% solution/95% of the time presuming you started with decent knife steel that was not so dull that it would not draw blood. I am quite please. Thank you all.

  10. #20
    Member
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    Feb 2011
    Location
    Seattle
    I just got one of these and I can't get an edge worth a damn on anything with it. It's supposed to be fool-proof so I guess I'll put on my clown shoes because I spent a good 30 minutes with it and I think the edge might be worse than it was before. *sigh*

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