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Thread: New Sharpmaker- Comments and Questions

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Navin Johnson View Post

    be very precise in your angles with your hand. If one is sloppy with the SM you will end up with a convex edge.

    Only need a small burr to create a reasonable edge.
    For me this was the key. When I learned to keep a consistent vertical angle on the blade, I stopped rolling the edge. Even harder steels started sharpening up. (Looking at you, M4!)

  2. #32
    Something to keep in mind is the Factory Edge Angle.

    Different manufacturers use different edge angles, and that can prevent a knife from being able to be sharpened on the sharpmaker.

    For example, Benchmade used to (2003ish) ship their knives with a 25 degree (50 inclusive) edge. Not sure what they currently do.



    As such, it was impossible to sharpen my old Griptillian on my Sharpmaker, which tops out at 40 degrees. I thought I sucked at sharpening until I emailed Benchmade and they quoted me their edge angle.

    If you're not getting the knife sharp, thats the most likely culprit.

  3. #33
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    I have three Benchmade knives (Bugout and two Protagonists) made in the last 3 years or so and have no problems sharpening any of them using the 40 setting. Even at 50 degrees it shouldn’t be a big deal to reprofile the edge in about 20 strokes or so.

  4. #34
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    I've had a Sharpmaker for 5 or 6 years and normally use it to tune up my edge quarterly or so. I don't chase "shaving sharp" with it, normally I call it good at "pretty damn sharp". Getting there has never really been an issue.

    Recently, I pulled it out as I noticed the blade on my S35VN folder getting a little dull. I followed my usual routine, a few passes at medium, followed by a few passes at fine. The knife was worse than when I started. I jumped on youtube, watched a couple tutorials and tried again, still not sharp.

    I've often heard it mentioned that the SM is good for tuning up an edge, but not necessarily great for reviving a very dull knife. Without running out and buying another sharpening system, what is my best bet here? Try again? Or just send the knife in to the manufacturer for factory sharpening?

  5. #35
    banana republican blues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seven_Sicks_Two View Post
    I've had a Sharpmaker for 5 or 6 years and normally use it to tune up my edge quarterly or so. I don't chase "shaving sharp" with it, normally I call it good at "pretty damn sharp". Getting there has never really been an issue.

    Recently, I pulled it out as I noticed the blade on my S35VN folder getting a little dull. I followed my usual routine, a few passes at medium, followed by a few passes at fine. The knife was worse than when I started. I jumped on youtube, watched a couple tutorials and tried again, still not sharp.

    I've often heard it mentioned that the SM is good for tuning up an edge, but not necessarily great for reviving a very dull knife. Without running out and buying another sharpening system, what is my best bet here? Try again? Or just send the knife in to the manufacturer for factory sharpening?
    Couple of questions...had you sharpened this knife on the Sharpmaker previously? In other words, do you know whether the bevel angle matches the angles the Sharpmaker offers?

    You can do a couple of things. Color the bevel with a Sharpie pen and see where the Sharpmaker removes the ink. If it's high up on the shoulder of the bevel, or behind the edge, you'll need to remove some steel before the hone reaches the edge.

    (You can also use a strip of newspaper on the ceramic rod and see if the edge bites into the paper on the 20 or 30 degree slot when you make a normal sharpening stroke. If it just slides down, the edge is more obtuse than the particular angle selected.)

    If you need to remove some steel, try the technique shown here...up and down for several strokes, alternating on the brown rods...instead of one on one side, one on the other.

    Much faster. Finish with single strokes after you get down to the actual edge. Don't even bother with the white rods for the S35VN. The slightly coarser edge will perform better, imho.

    There's nothing civil about this war.

    Read: Harrison Bergeron

  6. #36
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    My responses in red

    Quote Originally Posted by blues View Post
    Couple of questions...had you sharpened this knife on the Sharpmaker previously? In other words, do you know whether the bevel angle matches the angles the Sharpmaker offers? I've used the Sharpmaker probably 15-20 times on this knife at the 20 degree angle (40 inclusive) recommended by the knife manufacturer and never had an issue... which is why I'm so perplexed.

    You can do a couple of things. Color the bevel with a Sharpie pen and see where the Sharpmaker removes the ink. If it's high up on the shoulder of the bevel, or behind the edge, you'll need to remove some steel before the hone reaches the edge. I'll give the sharpie trick a try

    (You can also use a strip of newspaper on the ceramic rod and see if the edge bites into the paper on the 20 or 30 degree slot when you make a normal sharpening stroke. If it just slides down, the edge is more obtuse than the particular angle selected.)
    I suppose the answer is going to be just taking another crack at it. Having a duller knife than when I started just sorta made me think I should quit while I was ahead (or at least not too far behind). Thanks for the recommendations.
    Last edited by Seven_Sicks_Two; 10-07-2020 at 11:49 AM.

  7. #37
    banana republican blues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seven_Sicks_Two View Post
    My responses in red



    I suppose the answer is going to be just taking another crack at it. Having a duller knife than when I started just sorta made me think I should quit while I was ahead (or at least not too far behind). Thanks for the recommendations.
    Since you've sharpened on the 20* setting in the past, it shouldn't take too long to get your bevel back in shape. Try doing a minute or so up and down on one side, never taking the blade off the hone. Then the same thing on the other side...never taking it off the hone. Test the edge with some newspaper, on your fingernail or whatever medium you prefer.

    Also, make sure the rods are clean and don't have a lot of buildup or the cutting action will be diminished.

    If you want, you can buy the diamond or CBN rods for the system on amazon...if you need a more aggressive (roughly 400 grit) hone...but I bet you'll be okay with the brown rods.

    Don't use a lot of pressure. Good luck. Looking forward to your results.
    There's nothing civil about this war.

    Read: Harrison Bergeron

  8. #38
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    Cleaning the rods

    What's the "best" way to clean the SM rods? I general put them in the sink with some Dawn detergent and/or hit them with scouring powder. This works okay but, I suspect there's a better technique. Thanks!

  9. #39
    banana republican blues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wyoming Shooter View Post
    What's the "best" way to clean the SM rods? I general put them in the sink with some Dawn detergent and/or hit them with scouring powder. This works okay but, I suspect there's a better technique. Thanks!
    Bar Keepers Friend works very well, primarily because of the oxalic acid that is part of the formula. We use that for any powdered cleanser tasks in the house and usually buy a few at a time online.

    I generally use a gum eraser, or a rubberized German sanding block (medium to light grit) for quick removal of the swarf that accumulates...but a good scrub with Bar Keepers seems to be the best clean.

    Anything will do a decent job because the gunk doesn't penetrate too deeply...kind of like lead from a pencil.
    There's nothing civil about this war.

    Read: Harrison Bergeron

  10. #40
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    Thanks!

    Bar Keeper's Friend cleaned my SM rods thoroughly and quickly. Thanks for the tip!

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