RFI: Internet extender/repeater.

[RJ]

FWIW, I went and grabbed my post from an RV web forum I made in 2018, in case it helps. This would be for the OP, in the context of what you can put in the Morton Building (the RV) and the House Access Point (would be the Campground, for me). Hope this helps.


As a matter of info for anyone who might find this useful, I put this description together for a SOB web blog last year, hope this helps. Some things have changed since I did this write up, but this is the essentials.

I've been researching WiFi boosters for our RV, but did not like the cost of a commercial set up. Was looking for cheap options to get a good signal inside the coach, and I didn't want to reprogram all our wireless devices every time we set up camp.

So, I assembled my own WiFi booster/repeater system for around $90. I hope this write up is useful to someone.

If anyone has any questions about WiFi, I'll try and help. I am an EE, and work in Aerospace Engineering. My system does what I need, but I'm definitely no networking expert.

All these items are commercially available. Aside from reflashing a router with DD-WRT, it does not require any particularly exotic skills.

Summary

I use two routers: one to 'capture' the Campground Wi-Fi, operating in repeater mode, with an external antenna. A second router, connected to the first by an Ethernet cable, provides the wifi network in the coach.

Together, they allow me to extend the range of my coach network far beyond what would be possible to pickup with a normal router inside the RV.

The two routers are called 'Hulagirl' (our mascot is a Hulagirl) and 'Hularptr' (Hularepeater) (Our Coach is named Hulagirl )

RV Repeater/Booster: Name: Hularptr

Router 1 is a used WRT54G Linksys router. It has been reflashed with DD-WRT, a Linux-based software package.

Hularptr features:

A 2 Watt 2.4 GHz Amplifier, and a magnetic mount RP-SMA 3m cable, about $60:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also attach a 16 dB Yagi directional antenna to the Amplifier's RP-SMA antenna jack, about $25:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(for times when I need an omni directional antenna, I just use this, about $6:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The WRT54G is a good choice for a repeater because it has external antenna ports. It is also commonly found at yard sales and Goodwill type stores, since many people have discarded them in favor of newer N routers with conformal (i.e. Internal) antennas. I got mine for $2 at the Goodwill.

DD-WRT replaces the stock Cisco firmware. It is open-source router software that provides a full set of features, the main one being the ability to set up the router in Repeater Mode. See www.dd-wrt.com for more details.

The physical interface is to 'the camp' through the Amplifier and Yagi antenna.

I use my laptop connected to Hularptr via an Ethernet cable to set up the physical connection to 'the camp'. That has to be done once, every time we arrive, or to e.g. at a McDonalds, Starbucks, etc.

All routers are password protected, and all are running WPA2 Personal/AES encryption.

Hularptr serves two functions: first, it connects to 'the camp' with the amplifier and the Yagi Antenna. Second, it provides a wired (not wireless, this is key) Internet connection for Hulagirl off of one of the ethernet ports on the back of Hularptr. That way, Hularptr's radio only has to wirelessly connect to 'the camp'.

Since Hulagirl 'sees' a DHCP internet connection from Hularptr, there is no halving of data rate, since I have one radio connecting to 'the camp' (Hularptr) and one radio servicing the RV (Hulagirl).

RV WiFi Access Point: Name: Hulagirl

The second router that supports devices inside the RV, is a refurbished WRT120N Linksys N unit from Amazon, $13:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is running Cisco Firmware, and set up as a normal Wireless Access point. Hularptr gets it's Internet connection via Dynamic Host Control Protocol (DHCP) from Hulagirl via an Ethernet connection on a wired port with a short Ethernet cable.

How this all Works

Hulagirl serves only one purpose, to be the Wireless Access Point (WAP) for all the devices in the RV.

When we get to 'the camp', I obtain the wifi access point details (ask at the Camp office, search for signals, etc.), then connect to Hularptr from my Ipad, login at 192.168.2.1, and change the physical interface in DD-WRT wireless setup to point to 'the camp'. That's it.

From then, all our devices enjoy full bandwidth to 'the camp' with no set up required, since they are already set up to automatically connect to Hulagirl. If 'the camp' provides a 10Mbps connection (measured from say, speedtest.net) then Hulagirl will be able to provide a 10Mbps connection, because I've got two routers (radios.)

If I used one router (i.e. one radio) in DD-WRT repeater mode for both 'the camp' AND Hulagirl, the effective data rate would be half what is available, since the router (radio) would have to service both the long distance connection to 'the camp' as well as serve as a WAP for the coach.

So far, this seems to work pretty well for us, for under $100.

[MichaelD]

This is a $100 Mu MIMO AP that needs a separate PoE to be purchased to drive it, correct? What would be special about this particular item that would "extend range"?

Not trying to be an ass, just curious if you have this item and have used it with good results. I read through the user manual at the link and really didn't notice much in the way of features that would say this item is better for "long range" WiFi than the typical AP, hence the questions hoping to learn something new.

A single-pack unit includes a power injector. That's exactly the one I linked to, btw.

I've not used the long-range model, but I have installed and configured a standard-range unit. In this case it would add another WiFi signal to the OP's current setup rather than acting as a repeater.

The standard-range model I set up in my townhouse gave me a strong signal outside my home, with four bars of 2.4G about 300' away, slightly blocked by other buildings. The LR model may very well be overkill but would have the advantage of added signal strength over the standard version while still being easy to configure.

[rayrevolver]

Lol, I have a WRT54GL. I think that's the model you are taking about. I tried DD-WRT and then Tomato, but we are talking 2005 or so.

Also in a box, free to a good home.

[EricM]

I need to extend my wireless net work about 127 feet from the router.

I have a similar situation on my property, about the same distance although my building is not metal. Starting with the simplest addition to the equipment I previously owned, I purchased a wifi extender (Netgear EX7000). It works and is reliable, but performance is severely degraded due to the distance and obstructions...my signal has to pass through several walls of my house and the wall of the detached garage. You have better placement options with the windows, so you may have better luck than me with that type of setup. My router and extender both have the standard set of three external antennas, nothing upgraded.

After doing a bunch of research I purchased a pair of Ubiquiti NanoBeam AC GEN2 units (NBE-5AC-GEN2). (Unfortunately I have a dozen other projects around the house that are a higher priority for my family, so I have not set them up yet.) You point them at each other and they create a wireless bridge up to 450Mbps. Ubiquiti has cheaper options like the NanoStation LocoM2 (150Mbps) and more expensive options like the UniFi Building Bridge (1.7Gbps) depending on what speed you need. With their directional antennas, 127 feet is an easy day for these things. Once the initial set up is complete, it's as if you have an ethernet cable run between the buildings, and you can then add a switch and/or wireless access point in your building to connect your devices. Your home network would work just as before. All of these devices can be installed on the outside your metal building, and there's also a suction cup window mount available for the Loco.

If you don't want to go through the setup process, I have seen some vendors offering pre-configured pairs, such as here for the LocoM2 (I'd make sure the seller is Department H -- based on the reviews it sounds like some other sellers on the listing are not preconfiguring them.) Grab that and the access point from rayrevolver and you'd be good to go.

Here's a video that gives an overview of NanoBeam setup and has a nice network diagram at the beginning.