I haven't tried anything from Everglades. Are those prices per 100? I see that they discount with a higher quantity but I think you can get the SMK for about the same price.
I haven't tried anything from Everglades. Are those prices per 100? I see that they discount with a higher quantity but I think you can get the SMK for about the same price.
-Seconds Count. Misses Don't-
Never used the Everglades but these shoot pretty well.Originally Posted by mmc45414
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...lure-250-count
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
The one time I bought the 75g from Everglades I paid $85 (shipping included) for Qty500. When he sells out of things he takes the quantity pricing down until he gets more. When I have priced them in the past they have been in the ballpark of half whatever current pricing on SMKs was at the time.
ETA: It confused me a couple of times because the Everglades cost for Qty1k was in the ballpark of the Qty500 bulk pack of SMK, but I could be off on my SMK pricing.
We are just starting to experiment with the 75g 223 bullets, but my friends and I have maybe gone through 10k-20k of their 115g 9mm bullets.
Those also look nice.
I'm kicking myself a bit now, I don't remember what all powders I had that I sold off a year and a half ago, but I do remember there being some more Varget, BLC2, H4895, and who knows what all. I kept three pounds of Varget.
However, after posting this thread, I got to digging on the web a bit, and a common theme has said H335 is often preferred. I stopped at the new gun store an hour north while working up there today, snagged two pounds of H335 and one more of Varget, 2000 CCI 450 primers, plus the last 300 55gr FMJBT they had. I figure I'll load for the AR eventually, but even at that the CZ shoots the Fiocchi 55 gr FMJ really well.
That also said, the rifle has the 25.6" barrel, which IMO, is too long for .223, but I simply could not find an example with the 24" when shopping last year.
This also raises a new question. I bought CCI 400 small rifle primers the other day, so that's what I loaded. Do I need to rework my loads if I switch?
Dang, yet another question you made me remember. How vital is crimping? I don't have a crimping die. I'm not worried in my bolt gun, but if I want to shoot anything out of my AR, I'd rather not have issues.
They grouped acceptably--.75" or so, on average, not bad for the price. I weight-sorted to reduce variables for velocity testing, and because I wanted to use the exact same methodology on the .223 (where I'm frustrated) as I do with the 6.5CM (where I'm super-satisfied). The 40-grain Hornady V-Max shoots around .25"-.3" from the same gun--and even did so at 200y, once--but I have a box of 60-grain Sierra TMKs waiting for when the range re-opens. I don't know why I bother, except to experiment.
Overall, the gun (and its chassis) are problematic for me. I bought them to try out rifles when my budget was smaller, but circumstances changed and I figured out that shooting Hornady 140-grain ELD-Ms isn't much more expensive. The gun itself owes me nothing ($300 special), so I'm trying to figure out something to do with the 700 short-action chassis that the 6.5CM can't. I've kicked around both re-barreling the cheap action or picking up a blueprinted replacement, and either staying with .223 or going over to .308, .300Blk, 30BR, .223AI, 6x45mm, or 6.5 Grendel.
Or I could just sell the chassis (which would only suck because the magazine for it was a gift), and move on to new, different mistakes.
It depends on who you ask. It is both unnecessary, and unsafe to do without. It either increases accuracy and reduces runout, or ruins perfectly good ammo.
A Lee FCD is like $12, it doesn't take much time to do, and bullet setback sucks.
Yes, although to what extent depends on the load and the use. If I was running towards the upper end of my data, I would reduce the charge by 10% and work back up. If I were making itsy-bitsy bughole ammo, I would have to do a little bit of load development, but not the entire process, unless I did something drastic like switch from small to large primers or from regular to magnum.
If the charge was in the middle of the data, I didn't change sizes or types, and I wasn't terribly concerned with accuracy...well, I should at least chrono 5-10, but in truth, I'd probably just check for pressure signs and keep rolling. If I was rolling out ammo in big batches on a progressive, I would be more inclined to thoroughly test, just to avoid having 1000 rounds of trash.
One aspect of this is that it goes through a powder measure like sand through an hourglass.
That would be like buying a winning lotto ticket right now, nice find!
I spent far more than I really wanted to, and would have bought more primers than I did since who knows when I'll be able to find more, but they were a little spendy, and it'll take a while to load 3k rounds.
If you want H335 - the "surplus" WC844 stills seems available.
I buy a lot of "blems" and "overruns" from the Nosler Pro Shop. I have good results with their 77 Custom Competition HPBTs across multiple 223/556. I wish I could find more of their 69 Custom Competition HPBTs for my 1-9s.
Reply With Quote