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Thread: AR cleaning

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by GyroF-16 View Post
    When you mention “ proprietary patches ” do you mean the round ones that are about 3.5” in diameter, or the patches that Otis offers specifically for .22/.223 that are closer to 2” in diameter?

    I only ask because I’ve been an Otis user for handguns for a long time (using the larger patches), and have cleaned my new AR once using the smaller patches without issue. You obviously have a much larger sample size with ARs, so I’m wondering if the smaller patches will likely give me a problem eventually. Or maybe Otis now offers the smaller ones because the larger “universal” patches caused the issue you described?
    The big ones. While I know the smaller ones exist, I misunderstood "Universal" to mean universal. Especially since there are instructions for using those patches for .22s. The .22 specific patches weren't available until about 2 years after I gave up on the Otis for .22 bores. Glad that they are working for you. I honestly believe your final question is an accurate statement.

    I am an unabashed follower of Uncle Pat, and while I was answering a specific question @LittleLebowski summed up my AR cleaning philosophy. Boresnake is good 'nuff...no overthinking, no overcleaning. Possible...err...likely undercleaning, but not that important in my world.

    pat

  2. #12
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    Also, for cleaning BCGs ultrasonic works. Since I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner any more (but then again, I don't have a bidet, either...) I have a 50cal ammocan filled with home brewed Ed's Red bore cleaner. Recipes available online, and just now with a google search I learned that Brownells is listing it premixed. Dropping the bolt carrier group fully assembled into the can and leaving it overnight, then disassembling, brushing with a nylon brush and hosing off with brake cleaner followed by a good lubing works for me. I have had zero issues with the black extractor spring insert and D ring being damaged by the Ed's Red. In fact, according to my notes they last longer than my gas rings tend to. I use it for all my pistol barrels and stripped steel/Al frames, but I am leery of putting my pistol slides in there because I have seen tritium capsules launch themselves from sights under recoil.

    DI gas tubes are self cleaning. They don't need pipe cleaners or Q-tips or anything pushed down them. A spritz of brake cleaner if you feel you must, but I don't even do that any more. And I have never even lost a red tube down one...

    Thanks for the thread slpit LL.

    pat

  3. #13
    Gucci gear, Walmart skill Darth_Uno's Avatar
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    My entire pistol and rifle cleaning kit consists of Seafoam Deep Creep, toothbrushes and Boresnakes. Wipe dry, lube, and reassemble. I clean my guns like I clean my truck. I do a good but not great job, cuz it's just gonna get dirty again anyway.

    All that to answer the question of how well do you need to clean your guns to keep them running. IME the answer for most modern service weapons is "not very well at all". That's not to be confused with how well you need to lubricate them; some are far less forgiving of that than others.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by UNM1136 View Post
    Also, for cleaning BCGs ultrasonic works. Since I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner any more (but then again, I don't have a bidet, either...) I have a 50cal ammocan filled with home brewed Ed's Red bore cleaner. Recipes available online, and just now with a google search I learned that Brownells is listing it premixed. Dropping the bolt carrier group fully assembled into the can and leaving it overnight, then disassembling, brushing with a nylon brush and hosing off with brake cleaner followed by a good lubing works for me. I have had zero issues with the black extractor spring insert and D ring being damaged by the Ed's Red. In fact, according to my notes they last longer than my gas rings tend to. I use it for all my pistol barrels and stripped steel/Al frames, but I am leery of putting my pistol slides in there because I have seen tritium capsules launch themselves from sights under recoil.

    DI gas tubes are self cleaning. They don't need pipe cleaners or Q-tips or anything pushed down them. A spritz of brake cleaner if you feel you must, but I don't even do that any more. And I have never even lost a red tube down one...

    Thanks for the thread slpit LL.

    pat
    I’ll be damned, they really do sell Ed’s Red.

    https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...936-44099.aspx
    #RESIST

  5. #15
    Member That Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UNM1136 View Post
    Sure.
    Thank you for your post.

    It sounds like we are mostly in agreement, just have drawn different conclusions. My own experience with cleaning .223's is of course much less than a lot of people here, but I have mostly been using an Otis cleaning kit. There is definitely a learning process in how to size the patches correctly! But I find now that I have things hopefully figured out, I can get pretty consistent results with the 3" universal patches, and the same patches are big enough I can use them for other cleaning tasks as well. I feel using a good solvent and the patches, I can get a much cleaner barrel than with a Boresnake. While I'm not so sure how relevant that is with our Colt 6920's with their chrome lined barrels, I doubt my Mini-14 barrel is as resilient towards poor maintenance. And even with the AR's, changing barrels is a bit more complicated and quite a bit more expensive here (barrels are controlled parts here so swapping barrels involves either dealing with the police or paying a gun smith to do it for you, not to mention finding a quality aftermarket barrel might not be as easy as in the US in the first place), so I would prefer to extend the service life of any barrel as much as possible. While opinions on what proper barrel maintenance is vary greatly, for my tiny little brain it seems logical that the cleaner I can keep the barrel while not using products or methods that would add additional wear, the longer the barrel should probably last. Or, at the very least, it shouldn't hurt. Most I can lose is a bit of time, a few cleaning patches, and some solvent. Seems reasonable to me to err slightly more towards over- than undercleaning in my circumstances.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by That Guy View Post
    Seems reasonable to me to err slightly more towards over- than undercleaning in my circumstances.
    Damage from over cleaning is mainly caused by mechanical cleaning means. Foaming bore solvent and using non chlorinated brake cleaner completely obviates worries over stuck patches, damaging the crown of the barrel, etc and these techniques are faster and easier.
    #RESIST

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by LittleLebowski View Post
    We are kinda diverging from OP, but I can fix that if we keep going on what is indeed a good topic for Medusa to learn in her new quest to compete with a rifle.

    Personally, I don't like punching the bore a lot; Uncle Pat always said that more guns have been damaged by cleaning than shooting, and I agree.

    I'd recommend simply yanking the upper, pulling the BCG, and soaking the bore (you can easily plug it at the muzzle using several different ways), and letting foaming bore cleaner work its magic, even for a couple of hours. Afterwards, punch the bore maybe a couple times with a light coat of any oil, then punch the bore dry with one-two patches. This only needs to be done every few hundred rounds.
    What's your preferred method? I've never taken the soaked-bore approach before and while I can think of a few ways to plug it, I'm mildly curious if there's a good starting point (vs letting my Good Idea Fairy loose).

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by WeepingAngel View Post
    What's your preferred method? I've never taken the soaked-bore approach before and while I can think of a few ways to plug it, I'm mildly curious if there's a good starting point (vs letting my Good Idea Fairy loose).
    Pull the upper, pull the BCG, hose everything out with non chlorinated brake cleaner - all BCG parts, lower where the trigger is, the upper including the barrel, let it air dry, plug the barrel with one of these, place it muzzle down standing up against something, fill barrel and maybe a little of the upper to get the chamber and lugs area with foaming bore cleaner, let it set a couple hours, then hose out quickly with non chlorinated brake cleaner, maybe run one patch with bore or gun oil through the bore, then one dry patch. Reassemble, lube generously all of the contact surfaces. You can repeat the foaming bore treatment until it comes out fairly clean, but you do not need a spotless bore.
    #RESIST

  9. #19
    Member TGS's Avatar
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    Apr 2011
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    I honestly didn't know that people still agonized over cleaning ARs.

    I'm with LL. Blow it out with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Then I pull a boresnake through the bore, with some oil applied towards the tail to leave a light film.

    Oil the BCG/bolt generously for phosphated components.

    Put away.
    "Are you ready? Okay. Let's roll."- Last words of Todd Beamer

  10. #20
    Member ASH556's Avatar
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    Do y'all not clean the chamber? I rarely (maybe every 3rd or 4th cleaning, which when I was shooting a lot equated to about once every year or two) clean the bore on an AR, but I do use a Dewey chamber brush and the short rod they make for it with the fixed handle. Most of my AR shooting is a suppressed MK18, so it's dirtier, but to me, chamber and BCG are the things I care the most about cleaning on an AR and then prodigious amounts of lubrication (SLIP 2000). Never had a problem. Gas rings about every 5-7K (when the bolt fails the test).
    Food Court Apprentice
    Semper Paratus certified AR15 armorer

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